spudulike

Goat curry.....now there's a thing!

Seals and carb kits are OK, have had some carb kits manufactured as a mirror image so totally useless but pretty obvious. These are some parts that are actually OK, many are worthy of the bin when they arrive.

Damn, sounds like me on a good day......as my customers know only too well!!!!

You can take an old plug, bend the end electrode away from the centre electrode so it is at around 45 degrees angle and see if the coil can jump the gap OK. It gives a bit of an indication but isn't a 100% check. If an old saw doesn't spark, sometimes closing the coil to flywheel gap can help.

It took me around a month to work out that the general public by cheap brands, worth nothing so the repair bill will generally come to more than the machine is worth. Cheap brands take just as long if not longer to fix, parts are much more difficult and the general public don't want to wait 3 months so buy new again. Good luck with it - look at his books carefully!

Get with it Andrew, we are on to sheep now...got some down the road and had a nice lamb steak last Sunday and Monday on the BBQ......they were that big....local butcher, very good!

I wasn't saying your husband was clueless - I don't know him, many arborists can't even adjust their idle speed and that is the point I was making. As the saw is new, it should go back to the supplier as mentioned by a few on here and as DS says, let us know the outcome although most manufacturers are a bit guarded on such things so probably we will never know. Hope it works out.

Yup, doesn't look too bad, new piston and the work you mentioned. Just make sure you know what caused the issue and fix it - probably bad mix but without seeing the machine.............

That's life, most people don't have a clue and don't recognize the fault diagnosis progressions. I would say new saws would very rarely stop and not work within the first or second use. I reckon it was probably flooded as it is the most likely issue that may occur through over use of the choke but never mind, keep smiling!

The rails being worn uneven so the chain cants over and the rails being splayed so the chain flops to one side are two very common issues!

All saws have more of a strainer than a filter on the rubber pickup pipe, yours included!

The saw is new and should therefore not have anything too much wrong with it. It is possible all that has happened is that the saw has been pulled over too many times on choke and it is now flooded. Two strokes should be pulled over until the engine coughs, the choke is then pushed in (Which leaves the saw in fast idle) and then after 1-3 pulls, it will start and run fast then blipping the throttle returns it to idle speed. It is different to many four strokes in so much as they will run on almost full choke unlike most two strokes, It may be worth popping the plug out and if it is wet, dry the plug, turn the saw upside down and pull it over hard a few times, expect droplets of fuel to be expelled and then leave the saw like this overnight and then replace the plug and try starting it by pulling the choke out and then push it back in, don't touch the throttle as it will knock off the fast idle you need to start the machine and then try to start it. If it won't go, try three pulls on choke and then try to stat without choke. The carbs these days have limiters, they are there to get some adjustment and most modern saws will run with the screws in any adjustment but the saw may not run as well as it should. BTW....I often act the idiot but it doesn't mean I am one

I have an old Zenoah strimmer and is identical to the Kawasaki engine ones, they are strong bits of kit with the only issue a coil going, it is probably 20 years old and an earlier generation to yours. If the gearbox is sealed then not much you can do. Engine wise, new fuel filter, spark plug and make sure the fuel lines are flexible and not degraded/split. Clean the air filter and replace as necessary. Worth looking at the clutch and drum if you are that way inclined but probably safe to leave unless the head is spinning all the time. The primer bulbs can go so a new carb kit and primer bulb wont harm. Make sure the carb is tuned correctly and.......enjoy!

I would fiddle with the carb until it runs

One year old - I wouldn't rule out the air filter unless you clean them out regularly. Having them block up causes the engine to run rich so the AT leans the mix right down to the point a hot start is a bitch! Other than that, not sure if it has the small 10mm spark plug but these can become unreliable, more so than the 14mm ones. Worth checking the compression but with AT....unlikely and you would feel it on the starter. Worth stripping the carb if the air filter and plug don't work, the gauze strainer may be blocked especially if you use the same can for saws and strimmers etc.

And that would never happen would it???

Always busy, got a few jobs done, read a few books, veggies are doing well, walked miles, around 5lb in weight loss, built a guitar that actually works, learnt a few riffs, still working on and off and enjoying a bit of free time after 38 years of constant work! I am concerned about the future economy and health but could keep this up for a long while yet.

Helicoil the damaged thread, most workshops doing this sort of work should be able to helicoil M4, M5, M6, M10 and M14 threads - the last two are spark plug holes. Very strong repair if done correctly.

Yup, arsy customers are not customers anymore in my book, bin em and move on!

Bloody hate money outstanding, had a few close calls but got all sorted by being a bit pushy and put it down to slow customers. Lack of answering the phone and emails are a strong sign that things are not going the right way. Turning up for a face to face may make a difference otherwise, small claims court etc! Perhaps we should start a non payment section on this forum!

excellent!

No problem, you were close to being bob on without my help

I usually dissolve thick transfer with chemicals and then abrade once it is oxidised and repeat until the transfer is gone. Thin transfer can just be abraded. There is a risk that you rub a cavity in the wall of the bore if you abrade too hard in one specific place, it may be a fraction of a micron deep but it can plummet compression through ring blow-by. Just take a look at the damage and use what you have.

Nope, sorry, Rush was a throwback from College days, hanging with the hippies!

Not this old chestnut. You always use the ratio recommended by the oil manufacturer and not some random figure given by the machine manufacturer. 50:1 for most major oil manufacturers.