spudulike

I did see that, the US guys said the same as us...funny that! Hope he enjoys the revenue from our knowledge!

In my experience, people with one or two posts, come on, rape us for info then feck off with little thanks for the years of information and experience we divulge for no gain...but we are GIVERS and not TAKERS, and that makes us better people! Hopefully I will be found wrong but there you go, live and learn!

I tend to give up and think Darwin has a point!

Pretty much the only way you will get lots of fuel in the engine is a stuck needle valve unless you are pulling it over forever with the choke on. Three carbs faulty - yup, spooky but as we keep saying....needle valve. There were a number of carbs on these machines, some had a very short nipple on the diaphragm and some had a long one, one metering arm levels with the body of the carb, the other levels with the bottom of the diaphragm bowl. Something tells me the needle valve has been set incorrectly, the US clean has made the needle valve stick on (shouldn't leave them in when cleaning) or the incorrect diaphragm has been fitted. The tests I have banged on about should tell you if the carb isn't holding pressure and just understand that some of us do this for a living and as such, we have to hit the bulls eye first time, every time and also own a fair bit of experience between us! How are Arboristsite doing on the issue?

take the air filter off, turn the saw on its side, fill the tank, look down the carb and put the fuel cap on. Does fuel piss through that little brass thing in the bore of the carb??? If it does - IT IS THE NEEDLE VALVE!!! What a life

Lack of compression = NO fuel ....not what you have. It will also not cause loads of fuel to enter the engine like you have. Here we go, another tip - get a piece of fuel line on the carb that is pissing fuel, blow down the pipe. Does it hold pressure or does it blow through. Suck on it and stick your tongue over the end When you pull your tongue off, does it hold vacuum for a while? I am guessing you don't know what pop off gauges and Mityvacs are.....back to basics! If this test shows a leak, you either have a leaking carb pump section or probably more likely, a leaking needle valve as we keep saying!

That much fuel - it has to be needle valve, it is the only logical solution, pressure check the carbs. You are putting fuel in the fuel tank and not down the plug hole when you fill it up

Three pulls on choke WILL NOT flood the engine unless the needle jet is stuck open as others have suggested. Just pressure test the carbs - pop off tester or Mityvac on the fuel line connector and see if it holds pressure. Seals - I have had saws with NO seals completely that still fire up, top end.....really, three pulls and flooding! Lack of fuel would be a side effect of lack of compression - you have the complete opposite! Are you clearing the muffler of fuel when drying the saw?

And if it isn't that, then are you pulling the saw over too many times on full choke? Anymore than 5-8 and you risk flooding. If it doesn't pop on the choke then if you have spark, is the flywheel key sheared? What is the compression like? Should be around 160-170 on a new top end. If all else fails, clear the engine of fuel as Bill said, heat the plug with a plumbers torch, take the air filter off, hold the saw throttle open with your right hand and pull it over hard with your left. I KNOW IT IS DANGEROUS BUT REALLY.....THIS IS HOW THE REST OF THE WORLD SWINGS AND IT WORKS!

Well all the guys on here say carb and that is telling you something isn't it? If you have rebuilt six of these then you must know that the rest of the engine won't make the saw flood UNLESS you keep pulling it over with the choke ON. From some of your own suggestions I can see you don't have much of a clue about how it all works. How about looking at the air filter and finding the choke flap is stuck shut causing all three carbs to not work and flood the machine - how about that.....reckon it may just work!

These jobs are always easy, if you know what the issue is and have a reasonable aptitude with spanners. Some can't even adjust an idle speed and that isn't just 1 or 2 of my customers!

Where I am coming from is spending £170 on a crank for a machine which will be some 17years old at best and then adding labour (I know the OP is doing it himself) and that is likely to be £200-250+ so you now have circa £400 on a saw that has done 17 years.....! 0.1mm is a big lump of tolerance on a critical part but I am torn between doing the professional long term fix and the taking a punt on the fix would last the rest of the machines life.....always a difficult one.

I would have used Loctite bearing retainer fluid and a new bearing. Spending that much on a crank for an old saw The other option would be a bit of JB weld if the bearing is really that loose on the shaft as it will fill larger cavities better. Some of these epoxies and locking fluids are amazingly strong if the surfaces are clean.

I really wouldn't worry, the logs are drying and the mould is just part of this and once they are dry, the mould will die and then will burn. The only issue will be if your garage is timber framed and the spores or worm then transfer to your house but probably unlikely in my experience.

I would burn them, that should sort out the mould problem!

It needs heat to soften the plastic if it is still plastic/rubber like and then scrape it off then scotch bright/ wire wool when cool to get rid of the rest. If the residue is hard and plastic then perhaps a wood chisel to carve it off then wire wool. All I can say is Darwin is alive and kicking

Sounds about right, seen a few like this.

In my past life I did sales, these dicks would phone on a Friday and make out they had a "Government Project", I would say "great, which of our products are you interested in"? They would be a bit evasive and eventually tell me that they had a publication and would advertise our services that would reach XX% of all people in Government giving us a great chance on these large scale projects. Same old shyte, £4-6k for an advert in a magazine that would be used to level a table, throw at an annoying colleague or landfill - take your pick!

I wish the Chinese had made a crap virus. Unfortunately, this one seems pretty dodgy to me - easily passed on and has potential to kill.....wish it would fall apart like most Chinese tat!

This is the original seller - Forestry Trailers and Cranes - Contact Us WWW.USED-TRACTOR.CO.UK

Here we go - palms+8+tonne - Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.CO.UK That is where the real one is or was, Edenbridge Kent, funny as I lived there for 18 years! The scum has just nicked this guys pics! Get wise!!!

Ask the fella if you can pick it up with cash on pickup. He will probably decline judging by his lack of feedback.

Just had a look around and CPUs are now commonly 6 and 8 core. My lappy is X4 and is pretty sprightly on all the normal stuff that you....and I do. When booting, mine used to take 3-5 minutes after a few years abuse. I used to turn it on and make a cuppa before using it. I reckon it is around 15 seconds now due to a SSD I fitted a while ago and that is with the same drive image being used and cost around £40. I have upgraded memory to 1GB and both are pretty easy mods. It has stayed that way and did the wifes desktop a year ago, same issues and bingo...super fast boot up time, no turning it on 30 mins before use! I just checked and mine is 10 years old and that is sooooooo long in computing terms but, it really shows that if you don't need games or are doing highly intensive graphics rendering or the like, all you need is an old banger with a bit of extra zip from memory and SSD. You could buy a decent 5 year old laptop making sure the processor is at least X4 core and then put around £60-80 of bits in it and bingo...it will blow you away! Lots of companies do refurb laptops for a couple of hundred £, just don't start thinking that you are going to use any more than 20% of the performance of a modern laptop surfing the net so why pay a fortune for it?

Are the sides leather? It looks like a cloth backing and wonder if only the tops are leather, the rest PVC? The only way of strengthening it is from the underside and that would be a sod to do.

Fast boot up times means SSD (solid state hard disk) and is the way to go, I upgraded mine and OMG, as fast as I can sit down, put my password in and go on the internet, the thing is already there. Quad core CPU is good although not sure what the latest incarnation is. I have been using an old Fujitsu 7-8 yrs and it has lasted well albeit upgraded memory and SSD, Lenovos are also good. If you are just surfing and doing a bit of paperwork then you don't need a real high spec - Games are the big user of power and if you are not a big gamer then you don't really need a high end lappy. I would look for the best CPU, memory can always be updated at a later date if necessary. If you do a lot of office work and like the Microsoft experience then go that route, there are other machines running Android and the like available. Try to match the machine to your needs rather than spending ££££££ on things you will never use.