spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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And still no news from the OP..........think he may have sorted it and done the normal fecking off in to the distance......Nice McCulloch Wes....always good to fire up when the neighbours have a garden party
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You can never have enough
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Yup, a set of easy outs is invaluable plus Sealy do their version which also work. I think most techs will have their own versions - drilling a hole down the sheared bolt/stud is usually the hardest thing to do!
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It is usually a case of smacking in the next size Allen, a slightly larger AF Allen or a suitable torx bit. You could do this and try a rattle gun on it for the most undoing impact. A flat screwdriver may also do it otherwise as someone earlier said, cut around the bolt and buy a new cover. If all else fails, drill the head off, remove the cover and then cut a slot in it, heat the fecker up and undo it with a screwdriver......there is always a way
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Not sure we are getting much feedback from the OP, a pic of the baron the mount would be useful...... you can take a horse to water but you cant make it wash your car as the old saying goes!
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New bar and old chains... they don't go together!
spudulike replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
See this stuff all day, I keep a good stock of drum sprockets for 201s and 200s plus a good selection of rims as most come in knackered as the owners are oblivious! -
What compression gauge are you using? Some are made specifically for car engines where you crank the engine over a few times continuously with much larger cylinder volumes. You need to use a gauge specifically that will work with smaller bore engines. Have you checked the piston yet? In regards to the easy start, you have also used two carbs, why should it be a carb issue and not a top end issue?
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Just re read your compression figures - your "PS in 2" is "PSI" and not in two pulls as I thought you meant. 125 PSI is very low for one of these saws where a worn one will make 150 and a lightly used/reburbished one will make 170PSI. You have seized your saw, take the exhaust off and you will be greeted by a scored piston! The Dolmar 113 and 350 are different types of machine, one pro and one home owner. The 345/350 are actually pretty good machines despite there plastic parts. They can leak air around where the metal cylinder parts mate with the plastic but are nice to use.
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"Input Gaskets"......are you sure it is a 350??? There are no input gaskets!!!!
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Why measure the compression in that way where everyone else will give it one to see what sort of initial compression a saw has - 70psi+ is normal then 5-6 to give max compression 150-170 is typical with 170 on a nice engine. Sounds like a top end issue to me but can't be sure as you may not have used a known decent OEM carb.
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I reckoned it was Turkish in my first post......just a skill I have!! I have had two 346XPs in from the Turkish guy for one of my customers and they were 100% genuine Husqvarna product with NO doubt!
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I was under the impression that the 262 was an XP machine in the range 242XP, 254XP, 262XP, 256XP, 271XP etc Generally if it has a vertically split crankcase, adjustable oiler and closed transfer ports, it is a pro saw and these were all pro saws. Most of Husqvarna 65-70cc machines use their larger mount size - I reckon you have the wrong bar, how does it not fit? I think the 262XP is the small mount and you may have the large mount bar?
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Generally, each part will have a part number on it, the plastic covers and clutch cover will and will be in the format 503 62 80-01 which in this case is the air filter cover. Some parts may have "EM" on them - the metal clutch cover should, they should be marked "Made in Sweden" and they often have a date code in the style of a clock, one giving you the year of manufacture, the other the month of manufacture.
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Mower engine needs fuel pump button pressing
spudulike replied to cryptogram's topic in Maintenance help
Is that the flat four Subaru engine straight out of the Impreza? Possibly a Wastegate issue? -
The serial tag and box look genuine to me. Give me a minute and I would be able to tell straight away if it was in front of me. Turkish by any chance? The fake I saw had a super stiff recoil, the rubber pipes were soft and moulded with a flash mark down both sides and not like normal Husqvarna kit. Look for Mahle on the cylinder, A or B on the little flat by the spark plug and the usual moulded date codes and part codes on the different covers - if you are not sure!
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I will PM you a price as that is how I do business. If I published a price, 50 people would say it was a bargain and 50 would say it was far too expensive and I can't be bothered with all that faf, if you want it done...fab......if you don't, make room for the others that do......pretty simple model TBH.
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I got a friend a very clean one, it was ported and is his go to saw...one he will never part with...must have been good!
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It often is and although I try to educate my customers, they seem to like to keep me in business!
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It could be the low screw is a little lean but it could also be an air leak. If you are good at setting carbs then you can often tell if a saw has an air leak but if you haven't tuned saws daily then it is more difficult. The L screw should be 1 to 1&1/4 turns out, if the low screw is on this setting and your saw is racing like this then I would get it pressure and vacuum tested as the next thing to happen may be a seize and that isn't good. Air leak issues may be seals, impulse line, manifold issue/split or gasket issues.....you sometimes get a loose or cracked cylinder but it is rarer. If it was my saw............
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I think taking the rock solid bar stud out of the lower clam to remove the engine doesn't help but to do simple cylinder work is a major pain on clam engines and with spares being difficult at the moment...........!
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I am not sure about "down the bottom end", are you offering a personal service? You had better elaborate on what this means.....if it is about opening the metering section....I usually do just to check it out but it is the less problematic side.
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Please don't...MS290 not my favourite that's for sure
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Unless there is a flat on the other side of the pinion it looks OK. If the pickup pipe and filter isn't blocked - you can blow through it (Don't use a compressor as it will split the pipe). Take a close look at the pickup side of the oil pump and you may find a small plug of sawdust in the hole that will need to be cleared before reassembly. You can use a compressor from the other side or carb cleaner/WD40 etc. If that is all OK, the oiler should all work as these are the normal issues. I have seen a few blocked bar oiler holes and the owners not working it out!
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Glad you are happy with the 395XP, been looking at other stuff tonight and missed all the fun - just knock the clutch off and take a look. The 550 I did last week had a really loose one and it was obvious without taking the clutch off but needed a new pinion and the clutch off to tighten the pump again. I use a tool for a 357 (think it is) which works just fine.
