geoff

Only for you mate....seems our secret is now out! Thanks Mr Blair, they are easy enough to build.

I built this from scratch for about 3 grand, & it's a better Harley engine, only had 1000 miles on the engine, the rest is old wheelbarrows, bits of ex wd bsa, the stainless pipe work is from old boats & any old junk I could find!

Nice Ironhead sportster custom there Chris, but that's way too much money! Taking it easy now and then is good for the soul!

Same as mate.

There is a thread on here somewhere, but just get an 8 to 10 mm hole as per picture, remove the exhaust first, takes 2 minutes if that, 7 get any swarf out after drilling, then you might need to tweek the L or H screw a fraction, I have done 4 or 5 & not needed adjustment. DSCF0005 by geoff321, on Flickr

I'm another one with a damaged shoulder, it's shocking how quick you lose muscle tone, I broke the clavicle getting bombed by a chog, never did anything about it for a few months, in hindsight it pays to get in for help as quick as you can, mine set wrong & is impinging on the joint, keyhole & grind me up buttercup! I'm going private, so bang goes my savings, but I will earn the money again, & waiting about at my age (54), is not an option I will consider viable. The 150 is a cracking saw, just drill the exhaust & it is a strong performer too.

Mine didn't need adjustment with a 9mm hole Rich Rule, but as Spud says.. I would tweek it up 1/4 turn on the H screw, then fine tune the L & H from there.

It happens, it shows you know where your at, which is good, & you cant win them all anyway unless you want to go skint, some companies will be trying to keep the week full if they are employing people. It's worth getting to know a good freelance climber, they will give you the ability to take stuff on that you might think twice about, & you will learn in the process. I'm getting old now, & carrying an injury, I use a local climber for some jobs & it works really well, I'm getting jobs I would have passed up due to a buster shoulder, & it keeps me in the loop while I recover.

Ouch, give them a nice lecture, or if they are deadwood thin them out. Sent from my bling phone with great dexterity.

Liros Honey mint, nobody else has the imagination to come up with that name, so no poaching it!

Yep, the fuel lines on these do go porous, Iv'e seen it, worth cleaning the tank too at some stage, & make sure the fuel cap lets air in.

The pump on these is engine mounted, or was on mine, which is upstream of the filter, the fuel pipe from tank to filter can go porous, you wont see a leak, but it will suck air, replace it, & check the filter for splits too, this will most likely cure your problem, & costs pennies.

No way can I put words together to express myself, just my thoughts, & those of everyone here are with you all at this tragic time. Geoff

It is marked as an echo bar, I put one of Rob d's Sugi bars on mine as I wanted a carving bar. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

. I have never had to claim, so can't say, no reason to think it will be any different from other brands, good point though. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

2 years pro, 5 years domestic, cant beat that, I have owned Echo saws for a good few years, they are fine, even the domestic ones, the 360 is a pro saw, & marketed as such, so that dealer,( who has probably never run a saw in his life), was talking poppycock...

It's a tough call, try to get plenty of sleep, it will help, six months down the line you will be on top of it.

I have done a few removals like this, some form of boat is desirable, if the company has a low decked barge you are laughing, if not then a couple of small boats, one for the cutters, one to transport the arisings, depending how far to unload. A pole saw comes in useful, or if good & still rooted, just get on it, take small pieces, strip the limbs above water. you could stabilize it with inner tubes, I never have, then once the upright limbs are dealt with start at the top & work down, cut the submerged limbs as you go, leaving strategic ones for support, get a rope on limbs you cut, they might need winching if they are in the canal bed. Use an old or cheap saw, vegetable oil for chain lube, & a lanyard, treat cuts on tension & compression and potential to roll as a windblow. I never roped myself in, just in case I took a bath, so be careful of trap potential, hence pole saw to remove trap hazard. No doubt I will be shot down in flames for a cowboy, so I'm going to get my head down!

looks a good machine Tom!

Those storage devices are useful mate, I got a duracell one, invaluable!

I would go with Ficus as well.

Good point, I'm going to 'liberate my' Ranger.

Maybe I'm one of your sheep then, I go by what I get from a vehicle, yes the side protection is not great, easy enough to fix, & they are cramped if your a lama, not so easy to fix. Mine worked hard for ten years, no real problems, & will most likely do it again with the new owner, no rust either to date, but I did clean the chassis regularly, as they have trap points, nothing a good hose off won't stay on top of. As for the aftermarket thing, it's because there are so many of them still on the road, & there is a substansial setup for the Jap stuff, ever growing. Like em or loath them, the landy will continue to earn people a living, sheep or not, & landy drivers seem less offensive too!

Yep, the 350 is a lighter build than the new 360, which is beefed up in strength.

Heavy on maintenance, light on the right foot is the best way for economy.