Billy

If you have a crewca anyway there no point building a throughbox when you can build a bigger one out of the back of your cab. However the next truck i buy will be a single cab and i'll build a through box on the body.

If acces isn't a problem go for a 3 ton machine the 1.6's have no ability to move material in bulk and are considerably less stable and comfortable to operate. Volvos tend to be nice powerful machines, jcb cheap tat, tekeuchi's in my experience tend to be underpowered compared to Kybota and Volvo counterparts. Also worth noting the kybotas tend to struggle with multi tasking more than most. If you have alot of work to do it may be worth considering just hiring in a 10t machine for a week or two and just doing it all like that, on medium to large scale stuff the larger machine gives a far better finish and efficiency. --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.383507,0.565991

80 cash --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.345454,0.569771

I may have someone who could help you, I'll get back to you about it. --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.373932,0.481589

10% petrol added to a tank of fuel will sort out any jelling issues, I ran several vehicles on vegetable oil through the snow like that with no problems. Also websites like diesel veg sell 12v heater kits that strap around filters and warm them up before start up. Just petrol usually sorts it though. --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.373860,0.481395

Isn;t the dragonfly a seat harness?

Hello, I'm working in Oxted RH8 this Thursday and require a tip site for 2-3 loads of silver birch logs and a load of Chipping's. Can anyone help me out? Would be much appreciated. Thanks, Bill --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.380419,0.562102

Check the fuel pump timing, if slightly out it can affect cold starting quite dramatically.

Can't you get a mini digger in there pick it up and walk out with it. Or jack it up put it on scaffold tubes then winch or pull it out. Or call someone good who will come and fix it.

I got mine off ebay, there was a very shiny 2nd gen cummins on thre a few weeks ago...too shiny for work did have a nice single stack onit though! They don't really have faults not alot stops them to be hoest good old in line mechanical pump pretty bombproof, on stock ish power the trnasmission wont give you any problems, axles are huge Dana 90 and 70, they're not gonna give out in a hurry and the manual tells me the engine may need inspecting for a rebuild at 1,000,000 miles so no worries there. Mine had a alternator just before i got it, and a steering box. I've replaced the water pump and the starter motor, starter motor was my fault due to some adventurious alternative fuels inthe cold weather earlier in the year. my trucks got 280k on it at the moment

This is what i was gonna suggest, find out what pressure is on the hydraulic fluid with a legal load, or just over and take note then check pressure and refer to this on jobs until your on it or close then unload, cheaper than fancy sensors.

When I am working with/for s company who has someone in this role usually they are just a drain on resources and the crew would get the days work done in a more efficient way without them more often than not. --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.374174,0.481317

Chain are the best value for money for this sort of thing, unless you know people with farms boat yards etc with big bits of rope with spliced eyes you could acquire...which is what i have. real built for prurpose snatch strops and such like are crazy money! Old school large diameter stuff wins it for me, strong and cheap.

hey billy, just when a decision had been reached! how is it cheaper? seems like 201 is £30 more to buy? all the best. The 201t is sold as a complete saw with bar and fir 399+vat I think it was where as the 200 for 30 cheaper is just the power unit with no bar or chain, which will cost another £50 so the 201t works out cheaper --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.374141,0.481486

I am quite shocked by these replies, I've had mine from not long after the release date and i think it s great saw, i'll alway sue it over my 200 just has that extra bit of grunt to it, very noticable when cutting full bar length stuff and the fuel seems to last longer. It also generally feels like a more solid saw all round, however this might be because my 200 is a fairly tired 07 and the 201 is stil relativley new. I've been sent up a 200 after urnning out of fuel or knockcing a chain off and it felt awful, i had them send me back the 201 as soon as it was ready to go again. Another benefit is the 201 actually works out cheaper than 200! 201t all the way for me!

ground crews i work with regularly and my own know pretty much what i want as i want it, th eonly signal i need is th eone to turn off the saws/chipper which i think is pretty universal anyway. However i guess we could start using Eastern europeangroundsmen if we get some good hand signals worked out which could increase profits a fair bit...So crack on!

a wait is acceptable if its cash payment otherwise it needs to be dealt with in asensible preferably pre arranged time.

a used woodmizer should fit that budget.

Thanks, thats half the price of th eone i found, i'll give that a go!

The manufacturers say I shouldn't but i know alot fo people do. I've heard of using a diamond disc ona 4" grinder, or a green wheel (whats this?) on a bench grinder and one of my mates reckoned that a normal metal gridning disc would work fine...so how do you guys sharpen yours and hwat works bst. I already own a 4" grinder but no bencg grinder so would be keen to use that. the only diamond disc i have found so far is on ebay and its £34 advertised specially for sharpening stump grinder teeth, does anyone know if they are available cheaper and where? Thanks, Bill

£150 if its on way home/very convenient other wise gotta be at least £200.

I've got a 3000 for sale open to offers if anyones interested.

Its the only way you'll make decent money in any trade. An employed tradesman will never be a rich man imo. You need to figure out your own rate for climbing and doing your own jobs, cost+profit +tax its fairly simple in theory.

Looking to upgrade my chipper in the near future, I'm currently running a Vermeer 625i, It gets the job done but requires good vigilant groundies that sned up correctly for smooth running and its just not as fast as bigger/newer machines. I work for a few people with 190's and 190 turbos and have experienced a few of the 8"ish schlising mahcines, the latter being a far better machine, build quality speed etc. The Timberwolfs seem to go wrong quite regularly even with very low hours on them yet are very expensive to buy, even the 150's...All this makes me dubious of buying these machines when they're five or six years old. I'm leaning towards a Vermeer 935i as weight is not an issue and being a vermeer of the same era as mine i'm guessing its all easy to fix with simple tools and most parts can be fabbed at home without too much trouble...which is good, unless any of you have other experiences with them. Thats where i'm at with my research and experience so far, all opinions welcome just want to honestly know what people think.

They look almost identical to my steings, hope they don't take as long to break in!