josharb87

I didn't read it as a criticism but some will assume re-badged = shite! Not an overly impressive video on the Laski link though, compared to the better-known brands

That predator does look good https://www.predator-mfg.com/360-1/ls160-wood-chipper But yeah, re-badged Laski, not nessaraly a bad thing http://eng.laski.cz/produkt/ls-160-dw-track

Might be better aiming at "having suitable tyres for the conditions" to determine blame in the event of an accident/insurance complications if using unsuitable tyres for the road conditions. This could prevent people "risking it" for an unnecessary journey. Here its compulsory to have winter tyres (studded or non studded) between 1st december and 31st march IF its winter conditions on the road. Its also allowed to have them fitted anytime in the year IF its winter conditions, and between 1st oct-15 april (when its likely to be winter conditions) Winter conditions = if there is snow, ice, sludge, or frost on any part of the road, (includes verge). It is the police who determine the conditions at your location. @Stubby the law here states that tyres marked with M+S or Mud and Snow are approved winter tyres. However in my experience the mud terrain style tyres are not as good as the less aggressive looking Winter specific tyres when theres frost/ice under the snow. A possible consequence of your idea BigJ would be that trailers also need winter tyres if the to vehicle has them fitted, again, here, the trailer needs the best grip - so if the vehicle has studded tyres the trailer must have studded tyres, if the vehicle has non-studded winter tyres the trailer can have either studded or non-studded winter tyres. with your proposal it would be sensible that if the vehicle has winter tyres the trailer must also have winter tyres- not just summer tyres. Subsequently the corner of my workshop looks like a tyre dealers

The regular Stihl bars are very good as standard, The Sugihara bars are very tough I've found, they need a really good flat file to dress them though (once in a blue moon) Theres hardly any price difference between them at 36" (Sugihara light) Unless my local dealer could do a good price on the Stihl bar i'd probably go for Sugihara as its shiny

Not keen on L200's but this is for sale for less than 6k on arbbay (facebook) 53k miles

Good initiate big J, here’s the negatives: All year winter tyres are noisier than summer tyres they wear quick on hot roads they are weaker (I’ve punctured one driving up a kerb-weak soft thin sidewalls) cornering is worse (weak construction) they use more fuel the countries that have winter and summer sets of wheels also have extra driving tests - on skid pans for example, so this might be adding to the UK driving tests (that’ll be popular!)

If you’re thinking about finance, how much is the difference in monthly payments between (example) a TW160 and 230?

^^^ This! Im a landy fan but would not run one as a main vehicle especially for a new business (as i understand you are) You'll pretty much half your m3 payload yet handle that half load worse! Parts are cheap (thats good, as you'll be replacing parts often) Down time aint cheap or even free though. If the transits too big i'd look at a toyota dyna or older nissan cabstar. The getting stuck in snow - how often does the uk have snow days, how much £ would you loose taking those days off and how much extra £ does it take to run a defender with less m3 over the year? probably substantially cheaper to have those days off with family and earn brownie points! Most landys are money pits and most are triggers brooms! But you'll probably need to have one to get the idea out of your system, hopefully you're not bankrupt when you come to your senses But i still have a soft spot for defenders

It might cope with a sharp 30” planking ash, avoid the solid nose bar though, they really sap power. depends how much you have to do to wether it’s time to upgrade? i guess the stems are max 25”? id probably find it pretty painful tbh!

Both were running Stihl RS 3/8, the stihl 1.6, husqvarna 1,5 a comment on Facebook has asked to weigh both saws full of fuel with cutting equipment as “apparently” the difference is way over a kilo

Impressive!

I dont think there’s any real difference between them other than weight. I have a suspicion that one will be ever so slightly better for fast snedding soft woods but the other better for hard woods and oversized trees, but won’t know until we start felling with them in the new year

Sigh, there’s always one hey @slasherscot both identical length bars, both identical new chains, the husqvarna side was 5mm bigger. that video sums up them tbh, naff all in it! We’ll be taking them out in the forest in the new year to do some felling. @Treespotter the weight difference is considerable, the husqvarna feels way heavier but both are nicely balanced

A quick preview of today’s fun and games, let me know if the video doesn’t work

Agree with you Sveriges, I was thinking about the chains earlier and came to the conclusion It’ll be best with standard fitment from the manufacture - cars aren’t tested on the same tyres as each other/different than standard after all I dare say the majority never stray from standard manufacture fitment, so it’ll be one new chain, and one hand sharpened chain each ps neither saws are mine, I’ve had the 462 for a week to try out and the 572 is a mates

??? I aim to post a review mainly of the 462 with a video or two, hopefully at least one with the 572

Best get on a plane then fixed a head to head for tomorrow

Current day 044 equivalent would be the MS441

“Kids don’t like it” is down to their upbringing imo we don’t do frozen meals, ready meals etc. meals are made from scratch every day. My son was introduced to sweets at 4, loves going to buy his Saturday sweeties but always leaves 5 of the 10 he gets normally. Preferring fruit or carrot/cucumber/celery sticks. Laziness (in mobility and meals) and too much cake in the pie hole is what causes obesity. as for the original post, not exactly PC which will/has ruffled feathers, but perhaps Brit girls are getting larger because Brit blokes are already fat? Why should the girls take care in their bodies when it’s normal for guys to have a “harmless” beer belly? What country has sterotypically well trained men and overweight women? Can’t think of one personally! Lead by example men

Its only those that can't or don't get SRT that frown upon it. Theres CE approved systems so no excuse for training centers not to get on it! Depends on your current climbing system to whats going to help you progress

I don’t think so Stubby, in fairness, I think the husqvarna may have been a little smoother, perhaps hiding its performance a little bit

Having used both, Id be confident saying the Stihl would win. (The 461 did!) the 572 on a 20” (hand sharpened) cutting aspen was a nice saw, nothing special though. The 462 on the 20” (hand sharpened) cutting ash, my first reaction was Fcuking hell!

It's an awesome saw well worthy of the 46 family name! Ill do a full review at the end of the week, lots of good changes, well everything but still feels familiar stihl 46.

Its still got a front diff which isn’t locking and the front wheels can still turn at different speeds even in 4H. The RFW is locking the hubs remotely -each wheel has a hub basically connecting it to the half shaft (on my old hilux you had to get out and twist them in or out) so my previous post is still correct just omit this paragraph as it’s irrelevant with RFW “If you are going in and out of 4wd, just leave the hubs engaged, just change between H2 and H4 as and when needed” the driving on hard surface in 4H damage occurs as the front and rear prop shafts can’t turn at different speeds when cornering as there’s no center differential differentiating between the different speeds of the front and rear axles but yeah, I see how it’s a pain. The older system would have been simpler on your snow/tarmac/snow example

Either i don't get what you're saying or you don't understand free-wheeling hubs! I very much doubt you have a front lockable diff. but you're right in saying you can't keep it in 4 for road driving - no central Diff means the front and rear propshafts must turn at the same speed, unlike a landrover. The idea of free-wheeling front hubs aree so that when in high range, 2 wheel drive (rear wheel drive) the vehicle isn't still turning the front axle and prop, helping save on fuel and wear and tear. if you are going in and out of 4wd, just leave the hubs engaged, just change between H2 and H4 as and when needed. (Moving the lever to H4 connects the front prop to the non-diffed central transfer box, jump out and turn the hubs in to connect the hubs to the half-shafts)