Rob D

Ok Callum - will look into getting some - I have to order x30 at a time in mount and size and type!

Got no Sugi bars for the T540 yet - still a few months away....

Not yet... 28" light type for 390 and only the laminated bars for the 266 in 15"

Find them here Products for the category: Special Offers

Yep in fact fresh of the ship! Have just got the new GB bars in - 56" for the 48" Alaskan to give a full 4 ft cut - £245+vat 64" for the 56" Alaskan to give a full 56" cut - £285+vat Link to follow.

Unfortunately it's 'one of those' - in that much easier to say that it could be dangerous rather than that it'll prob be fine... ...but I expect it's prob fine.

I think a slightly odd mount (oregon selector saying K041?) I can get one of these for you if you need £20-00+vat. But you need to make sure your drive sprocket is running .325 Send a PM or e-mail direct on [email protected]

It'll be next time for the 16" bars in K095 I'm afraid but I do have some bars in K095 with a 3/8" found here Products for the category: Special Offers

Nice work Mark - like the base

Can't see it at our store but they do have a drill bit sharpener for £20....

Had a look and it looks fine... Produktdetails I can't believe what you get for the price when you think vat inc!! When are they selling them?

Work out the cubic footage - ie. length by width by depth in inches. Divide by 1728. That's how many cube. If dry then around £30 to £40 for good quality yew, if wet then around £20ish but prices of wood are subject to big variations...

As above double check the file size as it is a tiny 3.2mm file for this chain.

Chain too slack or perhaps a slight bend in the bar that is allowing the chain to de rail but that should not be happening!

Can't see how the chain would have been hitting it - have you got any pics?

Boots look really good IMO and seems like they last - nice to see new products like this being available - may have to try a pair.

If you had a bandsaw handy you'd re saw the quarters on it - this is if you are in a back garden, difficult access etc

Yep I can imagine the logo sol would be perfect for re sawing the quarters on.

I have square ground chain in 3/8 .063 so if you want to try a loop can find it here Custom chain loops I have not got round to setting up a file guide to sharpen this - but a couple of things to bear in mind are a) it is very hard indeed to sharpen correctly and b) the square ground files are very expensive (no idea why they don't seem that different) c) you can only square file 3/8" and .404 chain (on .325 chain the steep angle means you end up filing into a tie strap as in pic below). Why is it so hard to sharpen? You sort of file outside in and have to hold it in the right position... a round file sits in the tooth by itself but a square file needs to be guided... Although a file guide is realistically the way to do it. Is the hassal worth it? (not saying it isn't just putting it out there!) chisel chain cuts very quickly anyway and is much easier to file, if you hit something trying to get the tooth back would take a long time, even with a grinder you need a specialist grinder to grind square ground. expensive files have to file out the chain gullet after sharpening as a separate job But if you are keen then this article is very good TreeFalling

We do have these but I have them on the Special Offers page as all the selectors are geared to give the standard options the saw comes with. Products for the category: Special Offers So do have in 3/8 .058" in the sizes as below with the K095 mount... but not the 16". May get these in the next order but most seem to like to stick with the .325 on their 550s and 560s. By order of popular bars way way far out ahead of all others is... ... 15" .325 .058 for Husky 550s and 560s.... next most popular is the 18" .325 .058 for Husky 550s and 560s!

Only just seen this thread good idea and will certainly get some pics up of the Peterson and the slightly sketchy lumbermate I have!

Quarter sawing is the way to go - almost all the wood I saw now is quartered using Alaskan and mini mill then re sawn on the bandsaw. You end up with planks that are more stable, easier to move, easier to work with and less degrade as they dry. Did a vid here - but I wouldn't recommend this method as too many painful cuts with the mini mill.. Better and easier is to: Take top slab off as usual to get first flat edge. Set the mill 14" - mill this cut. Set the mill to 12.5" (to give a 2.25" plank). Mill this. Set to 10" mill, 7.5" mill, 5" mill, 2.5" mill Now saw down the middle with the mini mill Not true quarter sawn but the easiest way to do it and the largest boards are pretty much quarter sawn. Then similar method with the bottom half. - if you mini mill first then do the Alaskan cuts it's a real pain wedging the heavy x2 quarters off the saw when you exit the cut. If you mill from 2.5" down until 14" ie top down sawdust in the cut can interfere with accuracy. Hence working from bottom up. Will try and do a vid of this but it works well. But the best way would be to quarter the log and then re saw with a separate set up ie something like this would be perfect (am looking to import these but usual issues of CE marking etc)

You may find after a couple of sharpens the chain settles down as the difference from the top plate to the depth gauge becomes smaller and allows the saw to power the chain more smoothly through the wood. I find it on the tiny makita top handled saw I have - ie. jumps around and grabs - not got the power to pull the chain through from new. There's some method for smaller saws like this to move away from 3/8 lo pro down to 1/4" chain -this gives less drag on the powerhead and a much smoother cut (or should do in theory). Will fire this over to Les Cork for his opinion.

PCI Compliance has got to be one of the biggest backside covering waste of time there is out there! Every year I go through the same rigmarole with Lloyds with their endless endless pointless questions that are all answered the same. I now do PCI compliance with Security Metrics https://www.securitymetrics.com/sm/pub/ - cheaper and they are supposed to then tell LLoyds I'm compliant etc. but it's still a fiddle. I have x3 merchant numbers and there is a different set up for each... .... but in this world of time wasting, tick sheet ticking, stealth tax collecting world PCI compliance has got to be in the top 3!

It's a million dollar question really - but I always advise regular greasing purely as it says in on the bar packaging - I have asked a few manufacturers about this - it's safer not to grease but you do risk earlier nose failure. That's not to say it will happen - just more chance of it happening. I've had x5 sugi noses back that failed earlier than they should have - all as dry as a bone - not had any fail that have been greased so I think they do better greased than un greased. But if you've had no probs up to now stick with what you are doing - I expect there's a lot of variables at work and it's not just a straight answer of 'this is right and this is wrong' only - this is what works for me!