Rob D

I have this old mill, bar and chain for sale.... took it as a trade in. The bar is my old one - it has a hairline crack in the mount. Doesn't seem to affect performance and has been there a while i.e. doesn't seem to be getting any larger. New nose comes with the bar, new Stihl ripping chain, and the mill... ... (which I've not used but apparently it's upside down!). Bargain price at £200-00+vat from here http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/products/catlisting/category/special-offers/(of course you get arbtalk 10% off this), and if you want to see more pics etc I have an ebay listing for it as well. Stihl Chainsaw mill with 50" GB bar+nose new Stihl ripping chain - not alaskan | eBay

Do you mean that the bar is bending in the wood i.e. you exit the cut and the bar pings back straight? Almost like it was under pressure? I had this particularly with the new flip and rip and I think it has something to do with the saw bar not exactly parallel to the rail... it may be angled in or angled out slightly... Sorry I can be more specific but not home and have not got access to any pics... Can you take some pics of your set up and the process of what's happening?

(talking bollocks that is!)

Ha ha - that's my job!

Ha ha! Thanks - too far for me although that said I have a friend in Walton on Thames... where is it roughly and what sort of stuff are they after?

Would it be rude to ask if it is a paid position or voluntary?

Sorry - have only just seen this thread! Spud has it right - the plate on the clutch cover masks the hole off so only if this is not seated well will you get any oil leakage. I have one on my 346 and it works fine. So why have the elongated holes in the first place? Because the bar can then be fitted to Echo saws as well. Bear in mind that most carving bars have this arrangement where they can be fitted to a variety of smaller saws. What about the Husky 550 and 560xp? - they don't have a clutch cover plate? These saws are not made with a clutch plate and so you do get some oil leakage. So the current 13" and 15" sugi bars will not work as well with these saws. If you have one and want to return it then feel free to PM me and we'll sort something out. I have tried to contact most people who may have bought one for a 550 and 560.... the next batch will just have the straight Husky mount. What about the 18" bars? - same issue? Now these bars are a straight Husky mount - so they will fit and work fine on all mid Husky saws including the 550 and 560. I hope this answers your questions. But feel free to PM me with any more. Sugihara are aware of the problem with the 550 and 560 and are changing the BM mount to work with these saws.

ha ha - very good indeed! I just read this one - "Dropshadows lift the type off the page as if they are 3D. You probably don't even know how to do them."

Bar tip burning - is it the 47" duromatic bar? Still not sure why Stihl do not do a 4 foot sprocket nose bar but they don't... lot of heat build up on the solid tips and this sometimes causes problems with chain tension and the chain sticking in the bar. Not a fan of the solid tips for large chainsaws and mid sized ones - they only do well on carving bars where the chain is run a lot looser. I think the solid nose bars where better in days gone by when perhaps the sprocket noses weren't as good quality as today and saws revved lower and were more torquey...

Ooooo and there's a few more besides!

I'm reading a book at the moment called 'Not on the label'. It's oldish ie. published 2004 I think but gives some really good insights into the food industry, the price we pay for cheap food and also how supermarkets came to dominate and dictate to the producers of food.

Never got into Spartacus until I watched it from the start... then thought it superb... got the prequel as well. If you like Spartacus - then you will like Game of Thrones. Am on season 2 and it's brilliant. Plenty of shagging, slightly less violence (but still plenty), great storyline throughout... even my missus likes it!

I picked a blank one up from the post office... I don't think it cost more than a few quid.

Pretty low really - but there seems to be a lot of low people out there. As said some threaded bar down inside will stop them.

Smart looking shed - and liking the solar panel? How much was that and what is the power used for.... I have no idea about them

Looks a fantastic project. I'd like to cut my teeth doing some framing as I could then do the whole process from tree to building... may have a go at something small first as bought a book a while ago....

I like the use of the Stein arbtrolley to carry the planks Martin - what's it like to pull when fully loaded up?

The same wise man told me work smarter not harder.... but unfortunately he wasn't wise enough to give me the knowledge and details of how exactly to do this. I recently took advice on my business and found I was doing a lot wrong... a lot right as well but a lot of things to change. Maybe I wasn't ready to listen before - too busy working - but now that I'm putting changes into place I can feel the weight lifting.

Good on you for the work ethic Simon - At the moment that is a tough thing you're doing - effectively 2 jobs at the same time. But doing those sort of hours is not sustainable long term. Take a step back and assess your situation. Can you still see yourself being in this situation in 3 years time? 1 years time? What is your plan for the future?

Nothing stopping you at all - just order in the joining links.

Alright there Oli - nice to see you posting on here and also on a subject that comes up often. Oak is a harder one to dry as it just seems to be more temperamental than other timbers i.e. it can start to surface check in raw sunlight after only a couple hours, it takes longer to dry than other timbers, so it can case harden easily. Air drying slowly first can help remove a lot of water without drying defects and then it should be less likely to develop problems in the kiln. As Jon said I used to do mixed kilns but if you can same species, same thickness is better... that said I now kiln my neatly stickered timber like this and then put all the odd bits of timber around the outside of the main stack and this works well for me.

I've started drinking coconut water - has lots of potassium - seems to get in your system quick.

Just seen this thread - that's impressive moving lumps like that

I love my 390XP but wouldn't put longer than a 28" bar on it... I would like to get a 395XP - it's only a few cc more but seems more of a beast... not sure why. Would be better for me milling smaller stuff though.