Rich Rule

Rupe, are you dead set on using the ZigZag? You could just use a hitch and HC setup. Connect the tether to the bona and when not needed take the tether off and clip into the middle hole on the HC as per usual.

Cheers Rob. It has arrived. I have about 1700 Ripple and they seem to be going up steadily. Luckily I bought them pretty low, not as low as a friend who advised to buy these weeks ago. He is now a millionaire.

Here you go Rob.

Hey Rob. a Dog e coin is for life not just for Christmas, you know?

Usually get up. Knock up a three egg omletter with chilli sauce to kick start the day with a coffee. usually leave about 6 -630.

You could probably get away with it if You had to. Personally I would rather be hit about the face with the fish you mentioned rather than use that. Gravity fed does work but becomes particularly tedious. 6 inch minimum tow behind or tracked. That said though, you would have to re assess your vehicle situation. Good luck.

I used to charge 20 extra for rigging kit but often it turned out to be more if it was a pretty technical dismantle... ie a bonus from the company. crane jobs usually more if it was particulrly difficult or tricky. 30 quid on top of all that for the 660 and 30 inch bar.

Haha... I wondered why you and Stevo always wanted to k ow where my truck keys were;) i might add that on occasion, if a branch or two needed to be rigged down then It was just done. However, if I was I knocking gurt big lumps off, negative rigging, then they provided the kit or I charged them for the use of mine.

In answer to the second part of your OP. Riggin kit is essential for a rigging job. It isnt the kit you should be charging for but the the skills you have a trained over the years in order to do the job correctly, safely and efficiently. Charge accordingly for your skills. Just my opInion.

I used to charge for a standard day's climbing, me, Loler'd climbing kit, ms200t and 150t and a 441. If they wanted me to bring 700+ quids worth of rigging kit for no extra cost then I wouldnt be doing it. If rigging was required I charged extra. I wasn't cheap in the first place. When I say riggin kit I don't mean an old climbing rope. I used to provide 16mm polydine, slings, krabs, impact blocks, redirect pulleys and other bits and pieces. They all cost and needed to be Loler'd so I charged for it. Look at the specs for that kit and it can handle some fairly substantial heavy rigging. Any more than that and it was a crane job. I also used to charge extra if they wanted me to bring a 660. I always found as long as you explain all this before hand and don't spring it on them at invoice time. I never had a problem. It worked for me. Also I would suggest dropping the term subbie. It implies you are a bonafide sub contractor and therefore require your own PL insurance. I used the term freelance or contract climber.

Also the working climber DVD box set by Gerry Beranek. An outstanding piece of work. Again, very American, but the principles are the same .

Here is a link to a thread on the treehouse. It explains how the digital edition came about and the process of producing it. There is also a link at the bottom of the first post. http://masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?20759-Fundamentals-The-Backstory!&highlight=fundamentals

Check out the Digital edition of Gerry Beraneks Fundamentals of general tree work. It is in American with regards to forces and units for measuring but the principles are the same.

Matty it is how the VT is tied that creates the hockle, not the swivel. The swivel however does accentuate the hockling instead of sorting it out. I had that problem DDrt and tried the swivel. A guy on the treehouse said to ditch the swivel and tie the hitch a bit differently. Hey presto it worked. never used one since, SRT or DDrt.

If you are working as freelance labour for other tree firms... don't get sucked into the "I need Public Liability Insurance". Don't call yourself a subbie. You will be freelance. You don't need it and should be covered but the company you are working for policies. It is a good idea though, to have some form of accident insurance/income protection policy.

Why not open up the muffler. Then if there is a problem get a new muffler. Swap it out and send it back to the shop. i got a 150t over here in Norway and it had a totally different muffler than others I had seen. It was from HB in the uk and had the Yank style exhaust with spark arrested.

Rob I tried to open an account with coinfloor but received an email saying that they couldn't proceed with the application. any ideas?

Well, I went all the way through that and then received an email saying thank you but we cannot proceed with your application. Wonder why?

I do believe it was a Fir, but I could be wrong and it was cold... whatever it was, it isn't one of them any more.

I just wear some gripper gloves in the cold. i find the ones with padding don't have as much grip. i don't really follow you though, I felled the Fir tree tree so their wasn't much left to leave it looking natural.

I thought that was the name of the BFG AT's. The KO2's have more tread on the top of the side walls. https://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire/bf-goodrich/all-terrain-t-a-ko2

A friend was done over in Essex last night.

Pretty nipply round these parts. Bit of stump grinding on Monday. Large for tree to rig down on Tuesday. A maple to weight reduce and brace on Wednesday. Today was a RJ of a stand of 9 willows that had been left. Took around 2-3 metres of the top. Job was at a kindergarden in Oslo.

Nice little vids Reg. That second must have been a phatty if it was a 30" bar where you topped her.

Mick, are they the KO2's? I had trouble getting hold of them on my last Hilux. Found a set of KO's though, they were great and after 18k miles they still looked good as new. I had to go white writing on the inside as I am not a boy racer.