Brushcutter

Its a pain but I've found a bit of swarfega rubbed into it works quite well at getting it off. Hand sanitizer works well as well, which is really just an alcohol gel. Either method rub it in and stick it in the washing machine with a bio detergent. You always get left with some. Also depends on the fabric too i've got a couple of Wool Power jumpers that are ruined as a days worth of larch resin has got in the fibers.

My Haix boots protector pros seem to last 1 year to 18 months before the things fall apart. Always the sole splitting too. I clean them polish them and wax them too which maxes it all the more annoying that they last so poorly. Especially since they don't get used for climbing. Trousers i get 2 years minimum from which isn't bad. I got 5 years from my first pair of Stretch Airs and they were ruined as i tore the outer material badly. Got some Gladiator 2s this time and i've had them 2 years now. Starting to look a little tatty around the bramble line but still good. If you have two sets of of PPE you can spread the wear out a bit. Nothing is better than after having a soaking wet day and know you have spare dry kit for the morning. Then look at the miserble sods in the van in the morning with yesterdays half dam boots and trousers on and just think to your self money well spent.

That's what I'd do. I'd also check to see if there is any damage to the bar like a bend or a pinched rail.

That is the tidiest David Brown i think i've ever seen. It has windows and everything.

Loading shovel. Although that only put you upto around 7 tonne.

What size block do you need? I've found that if you know what you want then just get it from the net. I've got shackles from the ratchet shop before and they sell blocks.

Sorry to hear that. Rod got done over not so long ago similar number of saws stolen.

Finally i'm cool.

I'd like to forward on some slopes. Maybe even drive an 8wd ergo up some welsh valley with the stupid leveling seat trying to make it 'better'. I've felled some stuff on steep slopes its bad for the knees.

Welcome to the home counties. I'd like to do more slope work.

Look at Echo Echo Power Pruner Accessories they have some nice extra hedge cutting accessories. If you do a lot then a pole pruner is money well spent but for the odd bit then a good set of poles with a saw /lopper is the best.

More Valmet goodness.

I've always been told by 2 or 3 NPTC people that reverse cutting on the main road wasn't above board. Your right though could be very useful although i think a good come forward would remove the need. Or one of the 5' square Kronos mowers to go on the crane 360 degree mower goodness.

Get one of those easy lift harnesses. The Echo pruner does feel heavy (as does most Echo stuff) but spread the load with a harness it makes a hard job a hell of a lot easier.

You can't reverse drive on the road though so it won't be all that. Come forward flail is what you want or a front linkage one. The gear set up in valtra is great for cutting with i too find the massy too fast or too slow for cutting.

Echo. Well built and can have extra sections added to increase its length not a fan of the STIHL ones.

Should of got a Dolmar or a 550. Them 560s are nothing but trouble:001_tongue: On a more helpful note sound like something is up in on the flywheel side. Just put it back in the box and send it back. I'd also say you want a new one not that one fixed. If its giving trouble out the box it will be nothing but trouble in the future.

Depends on where you are.

How do you find the Valtras for hedge cutting? I've used an A series for it and it wasn't great as the visability was poor due to the cab pillars always being in the way.

Its tannins running out.

Chat to your insurance company would be my first step as i bet there is a lot of insurance issues. I also expect there is some sort of plant hire scheme thing too. Will you need to see a CoC before you can hire it to them. PUWER records (will you need independent ones too?) Insurance details for the client your hiring it too for hired in plant. Data protection Cost of keeping spares Do you pick it up/take it away or do they? What size machines your stand 5-6" machines/micro or 10" plus or a range. If you buy yourself a chipper how much hire time does it have to have to pay its keep? Nothing worse than having 30k worth of kit costing you yard/workshop space and insurance to keep and only going out once a week. There is a lot to think about these are just off the top of my head. There must be money in it or nobody would bother. Personally I'd not hire my chipper to anybody without an operator firstly so a load of rakings doesn't go through it at the end of the day. Even with people you know it does happen. I've seen the excuse its only a hire/lease/loan thrown around so much its depressing.

Welcome forestry and domestic tree work are very different. To do domestic tree work you will need: Good attitude Good time keeping Amazing raking and leaf blower skills. B+E driving license (even better C+E) First aid ticket CS 30+31 (or what ever they're called now) basically chainsaw & small felling Chipper cert. CS 38+39 Climbing rescue and saw in a tree Those as a minimum really as a foot in the door. Really to get good you'll need to work with a few people before setting off on your own for a few years to learn the ropes. For the forestry side of things its the same but there are more machine tickets to get. It's a lot of working away and expect to make bigger losses at the beginning than doing your own tree surgery. Oh and insurance as well, you won't need it for working with others but if you run your own jobs you will. Sorry if it sounds off putting but its my 2p worth.

Hi i think skip tooth .325 only comes in narrow kerf. Also no CE mark on the skip chain so it could be a pain if you ever have an accident with one. It would work i guess it would be like using an 18" bar cutting wise running the skip tooth. Would be very nose heavy with a 20" on there. Personally 15" max for a 550 13" is the ideal and a 18" on the 560.

13" Sugi light weight.

There is a theromostat in the 261 that keeps the carb heating off until it gets to -10 apparently.