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today whilst driving through a local village I was following a pretty new BMW X5 they dropped a can of iron brew out of the window, it infuriates me to put it mildly.

Thanks for the replys!

Hi, I am looking for any recomendations for someone that has a Tree shear (with operator) and large chipper. the job is just in Herefordshire/Gloucester removing some 80ft conifers. any help appreciate. (if this is the wrong area mods, please move thanks!)

how much of the stump did you grind? usually I try and grind the stump out completely, but I don't bother with roots if the they are under ground. I ground a pop stump and it shot up aload of suckers, yes sir I can sort that i'll get my digger hire in a skip get a load of top soil and re-seed or the customer can spary the little bits off as and when.

Short Course Details

more utter tosh being rolled out,

For me it has to be a stem that had its cavities filled with concrete. strimming badger poo isn't a pleasant experience either ..............

I know a few people that use this system to keep rack of peoples days off sick, I think its quite a good way of doing it, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bradford_Factor

so whereabouts is this tree?

I would buy a good quality one like Sugihara I had Stihl bar on my 880 and some how it cracked where it bolts to the unit, which was surprising, it hasnt done a massive amount of work, and being OE I expected alot more. so I think to answer your question, if you buy cheap you'll be buying twice

find someone with something like this, Protech Machinery | Post drivers

it looks like that has a drag tip on it, so you can place the tip on the workpiece and drag it, rather than hovering it over the the steel, I guess that'll cut through about 8mm?

[ame] [/ame] anyone had a go with a stump planer?

Lets be honest your probably doing it to a better standard than alot of so called pro's personally I'm all for DIY the amount of time and money and new skills I have acquired along with a sense of self satisfaction is a great thing.

is this where a load of ................................................. Bricklayer Building Inspector Buyer/Purchasing Agent Cabinetmaker Carpenter Concrete Finisher Construction Estimator Construction Manager Construction Millwright/Industrial Mechanic Contract Administrator Crane Operator Cribber Driller/Blaster Electrician Elevator Constructor/Mechanic Engineering/Design Consultant Equipment Inspector Exterior Finisher Field/Project Engineer First Level Construction Supervisor Floor Covering Installer Framer Gasfitter Glazier Heat and Frost Insulator Heavy-Duty Equipment Mechanic Heavy Equipment Operator Home Appraiser Home and Property Inspector Interior Finisher Ironworker/Structural Metal fabricator and Fitter Landscaper Line worker Painter and Decorator Plasterer/Drywall Installer and Finisher/Lather Plumber Project Manager/Project Coordinator Quality Control Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Mechanic Roofer/Shingler Rotating Equipment Inspector Safety Officer Scheduler/Expediter Sheet Metal Worker Shop Foreman Site Superintendent Small Construction Company Owner Steamfitter / pipefitter Sprinkler system installer Surveyor Technical Instructor Technical Salesperson/Supplier Tilesetter Trades Helper/Labourer Welder/Related Machine Operator X-Ray Technician come along and tell us we should not do it yourself and you should get a pro in? afterall tree surgeons seem to be good at berating any DIY tree owners.

coat the posts / rails in Hydrophane Cribox,

personally, if the job is close, yeah I would go and look, I wouldn't waste much time on it but worth a look, you'll be surprised and what figures some people throw out. I agree about possibly being a timewaster but thats all part and parcel of quoting. As for you potential response imo that makes you look unprofessional, personally I would just arrange a time to go and quote and then spend 10 minutes there. you never know the previous person might of spent 4 hours trying to talk them into submission, like rouge double glazing / roof cleaning salesmen etc do to OAPs.

I would recommend R tech as well, I have a MIG and a TIG great little machines

ok I'm in 9ft 6inchs

I had a HS45, the fuel pipe was sucking / collasping together when underload, on tickover it was fine but underload would cut out, never came across this before took along time to find the problem. I was convinced it was a carb problem and had the carb apart alot:)

Yeah I can go with that reckon you could just about straight fell it, just about squeak it in the gap

I assume that william127 is looking to fit a niche market, where as the jobs he takes on with his quad, are actually the jobs that people with bigger kit arn't actually interested in. This market is always going to command a premium, fundamentally the kit has to pay for itself and make a wage/profit, if it doesn't there's no point doing it.

I've be trying to work out how much to charge for me and my machinery hire aswell, and came across this, might be of some help http://www.naac.co.uk/userfiles/files/NAAC%20Contracting%20Charges%20Guide%202015-16.pdf

Mick this is taken from their website : Short Course Details Duration: 9 weeks Attendance: Monday - Friday FT/PT: Part-Time Level: 2 Tuition Fees (19-23): £ 2130 Tuition Fees (24+): £ 2130 Exam Fees: £ 120 Course related costs: £ 300 Advisory Costs: £ 650 Costs a bit more than when I did it!

when I did the course there some 15 odd years ago (it was a 10 week course then) I stayed on campus, so worth speaking to the college to see if they still offer accomadation. If not look for Local "Bed and Breakfast" accomadation places, and see if you can get a reduced rate for as you will be staying for 9 weeks.