MattyF

I recon it will finish it ... doesn’t look like it will come out on leaf next year as it is !

Get the 14m version if your considering one ... any thing less it would struggle to be useful. They can half job time or used badly can add time on.. if your doing a lot of trees in public spaces and next to roads or estates Feild’s I would consider one unless of you do mostly domestic Arb in towns they would be hopeless.

Fleet business insurance is the way forward ... not a lot for 3- 4 trucks and definitely brings the premium down than individual vehicles.

Don’t think it was down to the hinge as there wasn’t one ! Looks like he cut right through it

Distils come with Velcro type sheaths, dunno if they can be brought as an extra though.

Aye but it’s pretty standard and all saw shops should have them in stock and for pennies for a new rim , it’s basic maintenance, you don’t have to buy a new clutch drum to replace a sprocket.

Enjoyed watching your work ...Nice climbing and cutting.

Rim =sprocket ...it is the sprocket??? Commonly known as a rim sprocket.

Why would you have to modify either they are working saws ? I get having them muffler modded and a woods port but that’s as much as I want on a working saw.

1lb and oz is a lot of weight , I would take a 550 over a 560 if the task allows, why not if you can work faster and stay fresher... if I use my 576 felling I will pick up the 560 as soon as I can to delimb a tree.. just makes no sense to me to carry more weight than what’s needed on a job. 70 cc saws are thirsty and fatiguing they are not really some thing I enjoy using but that’s changed since getting a 462.. I know folk who have had the 572 for a while and they still would rather pick up there 560’s.

Fine bill, like any other saw really ..I’ve rebuilt 2 though!

Clipping in your tether can help drop slack through the system on longer come backs, then just pull in arm over arm.. I think it’s quicker than double roping and don’t notice any difference in fatigue really.

What cc is the dolmar ??

What are people’s thoughts about running snorkels on landy chip trucks ?

Hope your lead turns good.

Ssssh bill we don’t need any more jobs for the boys who undoubtedly will be reading this. iPaf course I thought was all right ,not much covering trees but then it was all about setting up and positioning mewps which is what you need to know.... there are enough tickets for saw use !

Close on power but the weight thing is what has sold the saw to me , an extra kilo is a lot to be swinging in the woods all day.. so in that they are miles apart and as said this stihl feels like a husky!

I did see a system on Treekits training days joe but can’t find any links for you ... could you just not if you choose a decent anchor point transfer them on to your harness with a webbing sling?

So the 462 ... what a belter!! this is the first stihl in a long time I have enjoyed using. Engine wise it feels very close to a husky in revs close to a 560’s power bands and throttle response maybe but with the torque of a 70cc saw.. ergonomically it does still feel like a stihl but a lot lighter than any 70cc saw we have used but all in I think it’s quite an incredible package...and I’m a husky man through and through!

About 15 m.. I’m pretty lazy like and clip my foot ascender and haas on to traverse but it works pretty mint and quick for big gaps.. longer the better as I’ve found if I’ve advanced it’s can be easier to come back in double rope if the branches you have advanced too don’t allow an easy flick off for the hook.. keeps as many options open as possible.

Armour prus is good and worth the money , liros is cheap and works well with XTC but but you can burn it out on one climb...

How big is your big?? 12” or 36”plus ?? By the sounds of your experience don’t do it over 12” until you have the saw time and experience to know how different timbers behave. A If I was on a big limb especially if your in experienced,I would forget the big saw small bar idea .. not meeting or matching cuts with a lot of weight behind is a good way of messing up badly... do go in with a saw you know is sharp and capable of cutting fast though. Positioning is every thing to keep you out of the way and insure you can see what is going on to assess your situation ... the advice on saws getting caught in big limbs is spot on , hopefully your using a tear away saw lanyard rated at breaking away under pressure and not some home made super strop I’ve seen lads using on there big saws in trees. I would opt for putting a gob in the limb facing towards the side and ground in that has the weight and wind in your favour... not too shallow or wide ,Or use a V cut but be careful of cutting the bottom v for compression the same goes if your going to gob ... It’s a hard thing to give advice on as every tree , limb , and cut will be different but don’t push your luck ! Personally cutting long level weighted limbs is better done in smaller bits or rigged as stihl says with a balancer .... lot of things can go and will go wrong.

Another thing to remember is with a vt you will get a bit of sit back if tied long ... it looks like the hitch is not gripping but it’s just the knot stretching to stop. As rich said though once you have the habit of dressing the hitch (pushing up) sorted it becomes second nature and you don’t even notice doing it.

Is that rope xtc ?? Try 8mm liros or if you can find any 8 mm armour prus

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253842651905 Would be my choice.