MattyF

About all the info there is on it pete.

Aye pete there mechanic was out at overland when I rang today and he was the same last time I rang as well a few weeks back , can’t get a more helpful guy when you do but I want to get stuck in and done... apparently it’s self adjusting so I just didn’t want to wind it up to get the slack and mess up some thing! nothing in the manual apart from the belts are self adjusting and the position of the tensioner

No mick I never said it was , but if your going to harp on about it being the law endlessly it’s interesting to see out of 46 votes 43 are not using it.. I could not give a flying **************** either way if you or I use two ropes or not.. I definitely won’t be when I’m rigging trees that won’t suit it or I feel it’s dangerous and it will certainly encourage me to become a bigger fat middle aged bastard by using a mewp as much as possible.

Well it’s pretty obvious who the only two people who are using it in the poll are.

Any one done this and can help ??? I’m looking at mine after one v belt has snapped and I’m guessing it’s as simple as this... undo the PTO pump that requires one bolt this should slide out?? Screw the slack adjuster up pushing the engine up. Now I’m guessing but not sure that is it I can now now install new belts but how far can I wind the adjuster up and is there any thing I’ve missed?? any tricks to getting all four belts on easily?

The Arb talk oracles are still out in force on this thread i see.

I’d take a 462 over the other saws ... truth is I’d probably use the 500i more as it’s the power of a 90cc saw with the weight of a 70cc... I’d be really tempted to try the 7310 though by it’s rave reviews..I’ve only used a few 7910’s briefly and they didn’t blow me away and want to rush out and by one.

Any long term smart winch users out there want to share there opinion?

No cons really ... maybe cost ? I’ve had quite a few saws over the years with them on and they might only get used 5-10 times a year but theres been times when I’ve thanked god for them !

Bit long for this time of the evening but really enjoyed this podcast, lot of sense talked for any one new or experienced in the industry .. worth a watch well listen when you have some time.

Any one tried those metal notch tethers? I find the tether length is down to how long you tie your hitch cord but you definitely don’t want it soft for advancing up a rope.

Can’t actually find a Carlton guide for 404 ?... maybe stick with a stihl.

So when you pull the wheel down I will pull it down hard for the last part and keep holding it there until it stops sparking really and the cutters all look clean at straight angles and no burrs.. from memory and I’ve only set it up once for 404 chain but you can adjust how much you clean from the gullet of the cutter when you pull the grinding head down. Are you using the correct disc ? I did have a quick blast at doing a 3/8 chain that had hit some flint and there was no way I was going to get a satisfactory result so the correct disc for the chain your using and also keeping the disk dressed to the right shape is important, there should be a guide plate for dressing disks and a dressing stone. I would go with what mutely says a Carlton file o plate is a good buy. I think you can set the grinder up to do the rakers too but I have always have done them when the chains back on the bar just because I’m happy with how I’ve set the grinder up for cutters as to me that’s the most important bit to get right. I think what you end up with any way is never quite the same as a hand sharpened chain and resembles a more out the box chain where the gullet is not huge.. my hand filled chains have the habit of getting a deep gullet that rips out wood, put that on a chainsaw mill and you end up with a very rippled finish that will need a lot of Sanding and planing when it’s ready to use... and they will blunt quicker and if you hit some thing hard there is more chance of buckling and breaking cutters.

I use something like the Oregon 520 and it’s spot on so would definitely recommend one... I was always completely against bench grinders but for milling it’s needed for no ripples on boards and straight cuts.. you will always have a dominant side hand filling no matter how good you think you are at it and this will effect the end product.. I don’t think they are slower ... in fact I know they are not as put a chain I had sharpened in a grinder against a new chain and it was faster quite considerably we thought.. trick is take your time , don’t go slamming the wheel down hard on each cutter just gently grind away , knock off burrs until it’s perfect then move on to the next one.. I have an oil pot I brush on each tooth for badly damaged stuff and just watch out for burrs! . I wish I had brought one years ago for milling chains.

This is one of the reasons though I hate driving tractors on the roads is that it seem dick heads pulling out in front of you is the normal, tractors just seem to be a magnet for it... and over taking in stupid places or worse not overtaking when it’s it’s perfectly safe and not keeping the traffic moving so some retard 4 cars back decides he’s going to break a land speed record to get past almost having a head on... any way hope your not injured Jonny.

How can you pull out on that , it’s hardly inconspicuous! Hope your ok Jonny ,looks like it was hit hard to end up how it did... worth buying back for a yard tractor ?

That’s what I mean they are usually smooth and have an anvil on the side of the casing, I’m only familiar with smaller model though.

I thought schliesing’s have a kind of third anvil against the fly wheel where the weld is to to stop wire wrapping around it... my only experience is of 220’s though. I did have a gravelly that did what yours is doing , the shafts where worn and the fly wheel not balanced at all.. it ate bearings and would move backwards and forwards.

Has the fly wheel been balanced ? What is the weld bead around the outside ? I’ve found overland if you can get hold of there mechanic guy are very helpful.

Not English elm though... have a Google on its origins it’s quite interesting the history of our once most common Feild tree. Chinese elm is what the article is based on. ulmus glabra (wych elm ) will grow from seed and will have a some resistance to DED but is not immune.

It could work then .. my view and that is I live off grid and rely on a large wind turbine for the bulk of our power the reality is different to what was sold to us on paper... if what your saying is possible then great though and definitely a better alternative to nuclear.

I would love to see some pics of eucalyptus plantations over 10-15 years old that have given you this idea , I’ve not found any that would give me excitement to declare them the saviour of British forestry...

I would like to see a plantation over 15 years old that is not a mess , they get to a certain size and then can’t take our climate in a harsh winter.

Holistic grazing is the same ? One of my neighbours introduced me to it a few years back , it’s some thing I mean to do but only have 2-4 beasts max usually so just alternate them between two Feild’s in summer and they have the roam the whole lot now, if I stand and look down in to the valley you can see that’s exactly how are forefathers farmed by the traces of old boundary walls and paddocks unlike the big open heavily stocked expanses we have now.

It will be interesting if farmers take and use the new carbon schemes to plant up these areas that require a lot of effort to drain and would be better suited to trees.. I hope so,the Feild in the picture is a prime example of one that should of never been put in to arable production.