MattyF

Putins been clever lately though. http://m.vice.com/read/why-is-russia-trading-warplanes-for-beef-1230?source=vice_iphone_app Why Is Russia Trading Warplanes for Beef?

Good point ... With the yearly price increase due on husky saws in the new year I would have a hole burning in my pocket!

550 is worth the money depending on what your using for...it and the 560 are both felling saws designed to fell and dress out timber as quickly as possible as the 365 is a heavy duty fire wood cross cutting saw that has professional pedigree but not as highly strung which looking at the description of what you want out of a saw ticks more boxes than the highly strung imo Ferrari of saws the 560. I would also be put off the 560 as no offence you would not get the optimum out of it and like many none pro users not have an idea of how to sharpen a saw and probably rely on your dealer sharpening chains, from my experience running auto tune saws blunt makes them run like pigs , then you have to reset them... I very quickly learnt not to give them to the new guys. 201 is basically a pro saw and any badged as such costs more. Read some of the dolmar threads as well it seems as bang per £ they seem a good choice but honestly have not used any modern ones to give an opinion but they have lots of converts and followers on here from people who are not happy with running saws with ecu's on the carbs that the majority of pro saws from stihl and husky now run.

365 and 372 are now the same saw its just the 365 is slightly restricted in standard form its a good saw. personally would leave it alone until it's done two years and out of warranty. You would benefit more from learning how to sharpen well than trying to build a race saw. As pros lol ,I guess we stIck to the husky xp's and black and white handled stihls on a whole because they are faster and more reliable stronger engines and better anti vibes ... Supposedly.

You got any local foresters who could show you the basics ?? rules for saw use are covered in the manual and most is common sense , cross cutting is hardly rocket science. Boots and trousers and lid and keep both hands on the saw and your thumb under the top handle and the saw to your side, be aware of kick back so try not to cut with the bar tip... Don't put it in the dirt !! , I would be more worried by getting crushed by your Arctic load of timber whilst cutting!

A good relatively cheap fire wood saw are the husky 365's ... If you have a husky dealer near you, not really sure what the stihl equivalent is but I've always thought they were a good machine more than capable for the job of logging. In regards to the chains it really depends on how many times you touch the ground with a saw because the slightest bit of dirt or grit will blunt it. Buy a file guide and read the instructions! Or you can always come back for more advice.

Would love that MB trac !

Aye they should be , climbing gets better and better through each generation of climbers. I look forward to seeing what's happening in 10 years time.

Never seen that before , not good Jonny hope it's sorted ASAP

Have a good Christmas Steve!

Type A are fine,maybe a tad warmer but I seem to wreck trousers by climbing with a stropped up saw and ripping the backs of the legs up there seems no different to the klima airs on the extremes so don't bother with them more.

50-60ft Scott's is what I've been on last few weeks, thinning and converting in to 3m lengths. Average dbh is around 15" and the husky 560xp with a 15" is noticeably quicker felling than the Ms 261's I'm working along side with the only problem is by 3 pm you start to wish it was a 261 whilst snedding. I did nearly buy a 550 xp because of this but decided to man up and keep on with the 560. 441 or any 70cc saw is absolute overkill imo on these size soft woods... Would not touch one until the dbh is at least 20" and then I would still have the 560 for snedding.

Dixons in hexham had some good condition second hand husky 254's at around £190. Was tempted

Nice vid, Some big old lumps on the crane !!!

Cool your the man who's seen it up close ! I just was not sure if you remembered it. I don't want to waste your time sending it to you and it's scrap ! Keep trying to open up masterminds thread on the 562 to see exactly what he has removed but the pics won't show.

Maybe worth asking on AS to see if any ones done it... It won't catch the piston ring if you do?

Eddy do you recon this cylinder is shot or could the damage be ported out?

I think it's a great opportunity for the right person and your spot on the money I recon. As already said though most will go self employed after a few years if they have the aptitude to reach the criteria of being a team leader. Maybe an add with the benefits of working in a great team with possible future benefits of working your way up in to the future of the company as I feel this is why many of us leave firms as we put are whole souls in to making boss's money and know that usually after 5 years of doing it will be too knackered and burnt out to carry on... Lead climber position is bloody hard setting the pace and often thankless if you finish a job a few days early and save on crane /Mewp machine hire and wages.

If your going to completely take forestry off Arb courses there still needs to be taught the basics of presenting timber for resale... Some of what I have seen is not good so I doubt it's taught now either. Also snedding out and cross cutting timber is important to handling timber and even brush more safely and easy in Arb as forestry, nothing worse than been whipped in the face or stabbed by a peg because not even basic skill of snedding is taught.

If I had the time and money I would build one of these out of an old lwb G wagon and stick a modern merc diesel in it. The chassis are bomb proof along with the gear boxes and diffs that will pull you out or up anything with out breaking down like a LR. I had a swb base G and its performance off road was so much better than the 90 I owned despite not even having off road tyres!

Eddy can you stick as many pics as possible up of the 560 port work up when you do it. Can't see any thing on AS in pics to give me an idea of what's needed to come off. What's people's thoughts on polishing ports as well ? Is it possible the fuel side may benefit from being rougher ?

Do you need the piston for the port work ?

Bottom end done on the 560,couple of taps with the copper Mallet to the fly wheel and clutch spindles after it was tightened to loosen the bearings and a jobs a good un. just awaiting a red barn piston and I'll post you the head and exhaust to mod Steve, if that's cool ?

Agree kev that's why I say they should have a minimum of 6 months already in the industry so they know what they are letting them selfs in for and not wasting very ones time they come across in the future, there own included.

So what do you have to have to get on a college course these days ?