MattyF
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Everything posted by MattyF
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The rotator moves and the grab opens and closes slowly ,there's no slew or up and down, I was thinking blocked filter but it's had little use since the last change.
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As above , there is plenty of hydraulic oil in there but when the pumps running there is only tiny movement. Any ideas?
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Sorted mate, I find it hard to plan routes in to voids it's one of those SRT things I can't get my head around after being on a double rope for so long.
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All makes perfect sense now
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Im still trying to work out why you would you want an ascender when you can just walk up on spikes anyway ?
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I find with my auto tunes that after leaving on half choke for around 15 secs just Rev it up very hard get all the gremlins out until you get a flat constant pitch.
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Sorry to hear this , hope your milling saws are safe.
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Apart from that and its ability to self destruct (thankfully they provide a bag to collect the bits) it's a good helmet as far as comfort with out noise goes. I brought it expecting the ultimate Arb helmet there is large room for improvement but I would still find it hard to go back to a stein or petzl. Yes u know rain guards are for benders but it's a nice addition to comfort...plus it's like a little Cape so you feel like pfanner man
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The ear defenders are rated at 23snr ... That's probably the worse of any on the market and not legal for most types of equipment we use.
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I have never used a stihl cm saw so can't comment on them , I'm pretty sure there will be dealers with old stock 261's in still though.
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What's with the 560 Is it a wrap?? I struggle to find kit at the best of times that would bug me but it looks good. 261 is not a bad saw ,neither is the 550 ,go to your local dealers and see what feels and looks good to you.You can have the most powerful chainsaw on the market but if you can't sharpen it there's no point for that I would probably stick with the 261 none auto tune or what ever stihl call it if it's all new to you ,as the husky auto tunes can start running a bit finicky if blunt or your sharpening is not good yet IMO.... And it can take a long time even years to perfect chain sharpening.
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8mm cord ... Beeline or Sirius.
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Not legally ... Quite easy to over Load two thirds full off wet beech , if it had been full I recon over 2t.
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Your probably more likely to die driving down a country road steering with your knees trying to stoke and light it up as well. .. It's sounding more promising by the minute.
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I like smoking,can't stand tailor mades though has to be a none filtered roll up for that extra hit ... but I may buy me a pipe... Yes pipes are the way forward , apart from maybe the crack ones.
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It's not right , looks like Horse chestnut your cutting as well that saw should destroy that ,it's as soft as a very soft thing.
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I think trees should have priority over property ,Especially new builds.... Just saying
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You could argue a 15% thin would be the same as a reduction if done right... Both would still cause reactive upright growth but less so if a lot of thought is put in to stop light hitting newly exposed wood and causing more dormant bud burst than necessary and the pruning is accurate .. thinning causes it more central to the crown because most climbers won't go on the tips... They both cause reactive growth, my argument for not thinning would be say in the future there was a need to reduce wind sail down and you can't because there's no decent growth points... I've flat refused to thin 3 trees this year as I can't see how in any way it would help already stressed trees... The only tree I've reduced has been this one for obvious reasons although apparently we are going to ruin Mrs miggins already butchered maples this morning
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Can you pm me a price please?
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So naturally a tree retrenches it self and it does not thin unless stressed. Raising to eternity and leaving massive wounds to mess up the tree IMO is not a good alternative either, atleast reduction cuts if done properly are small and on the tips not effecting leverage through a badly healed wound from the stem or half way along the branch ....the cause of lot of failures.
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Pretty sure that's the stuffer, cranks not listed ... Conrod is bent Steve , was pretty beaten after the stuffer came apart and tore it all up, was kinda hoping you could port the lumps out of the cylinder😄 guess I'll be putting an offers on the oem one on eBay
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Bin any spark arrestor! They cause more problems than they are worth.
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There's a time and a place where any means is necessary for all tree works , but I'm not fan of thinning unless it's tip work and I would classify that as a reduction? , crown cleaning I'm all.for but I've seen 35% thins or 35% reductions and 15% thins put in specs and it's wrong IMO.
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Completely disagree, thinning is bad it's what trees do when they die ! Plus most of the time it means the tree just gets lions tailed because people can't be bothered to do it properly anyway ,so there is more wind sail leverage and it only encourages week epicormic regrowth and your removing any suitable future reduction points. I'm all for taking 2 meters or what ever out of branch tips to allow better wind sail and leverage... I can't remember the figures but it reduces a lot of pressure just a light reduction. I remember years ago on Arb talk there was a discussion about a large sweet chestnut and what to do with it. I would of reduced it ... The vast majority of people said leave it , OP never had to do any thing because it tore apart in the next Storm.. Would of been interesting to see if it had stayed up if reduced.
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It's the one back from spud mate, just got a cheap oem crank case and bearings from the states so thought it's worth a shot. Only killed one swinny !
