RPA

Great vid as normal Reg

Never felt so p1ssed off in my life as the day I sold this

Just ordered mine

Good news Pete :wave:

Pre rinse cycle.

Steve, This is how I have done my side extensions. They just slot over the sides and the G clamps hold them in place. I could put some ties onto the tie down hooks on the trailer but does not really need it. Around town I trundle about with it set up, longer runs leave the extensions in the trailer until i need them, set it up, chip and then strap the extensions over the chip when im finished. The ply is just 1/2" waterproof - lighter/cheaper. Hope this helps a bit. Richard.

Got a quick temp system for my trailer. Putting it on in the morning so will try to remember and take some pics (easier than trying to explain it!). Richard.

Thumb should be on the throttle when doing a felling cut with pushing bar.

Never let the customer have a go. Esp if he is the wifes boss who is an Irish Dr. (Phone pic, sorry quality crap.)

Ooops. Should have said you over do you butress cuts to give you a guide as far round the tree as poss.

Over do your buttress cuts, then make sure the bottom of your sink cut is at the same level (you should not be penalised for taking your time getting everything level). Its harder at first but try doing your felling cut with a pushing bar. It is actually easier when you get used to it and on 31 your felling cut should be the thickness of your side caseing above the bottom of your sink cut, you also end up putting in your sink cut and felling cut without having to walk round the tree. Getting comfortable with a pushing bar now will help once you start 39 etc. When you start your felling cut dont be afraid to stop, leave saw in the cut running with chain brake on, and check your level/parallel. When you start cutting again just push the chainbrake into the tree to knock it of etc. Try not to rock the saw, get it parallel for your hinge and keep it that way. Like everyone has said practice, but dont rush cos every one you fell still has to be snedded! Get it right slowly and speed will come with experiance and confidence (on everything - not just 31) Hope this makes sense & helps. Good luck.

those that know

99% of people will sh1t on you, most of the rest already have

Do get registered as a sole trader within 3 months (I think) of starting cos if you dont they fine you first and then ask questions about turnover etc (I know ). If you dont plan on making any profit in the first year - eg just put what you earn back into the business - apply for low earning NI exemption. Its better than paying it then claiming your own money back. Dont price too low, it will back fire on you long term. Dont climb on your own, sh1t happens

Think its now Equipment supply services (http://www.equipmentsupply.co.uk/) Just got a price of them the other week, about £2950 + vat (if you go for the Husqvarna powere head at least you will end up with a big mf saw as well! - 3120XP). They send out a leaflet & DVD if you contact them. Contact: Andy Philpin 01639 635123.

Im still looking into getting a grinder. Talking to a salesman at Saltex last year he was saying £75 call out up to 18" (ie min charge) then £50/foot. Dont know if this is right or a load of bull? 4 out 5 of my last private jobs all asked if I could grind the stump. Then again if I buy one i bet nobody will want it done

Good advice from Andy/Ed and good to see you have taken note! IMO windblow IS the most dangerous operation we do. It hass all the potential to do everything an unexperianced operator would not expect. After 30/31 (and i would also recomend 32 for the extra cuts it will teach you) get 34. I think its only a couple of days but if taught properly it will open your eyes to the respect trees deserve to be treat with. Good luck.

Just got a pair of Stein Bergsteiger Pro's (£114 off Jonesie), very good so far

Groundy whent to Disney, told him to stuff post card - fetch me 192T back instead and he did! As Charlieh said works out about £160. Local dealer has had one back in for repair, he had to send it back to Stihl - and they repaired it!

Also get some branches/brash and pull them appart by hand. You will soon start to recognise strong/weak unions - on the ground ‘Touch Trees’ can be interpreted in many different ways, but there never has been or will be a more valid saying!

Agree with Steve etc above but nobody has mentioned co-dominant stems Stay clear where possible but if you have to use one try to have a secondary in. Also remember that a bark ridge pointing up has a stronger union than bark ridge pointing down.

Nice

hello big baldy man, this is the wifey here!! mean u are. I'm not ferocious I was just thinking I could be doin better things than helpin you!! like shoppin Diane:wave:

Christ this is heavy stuff, thought this was an arb forum! Found this whilst looking at some avatars, just to lighten things up a bit :wave:

Thanks tockmal n Steve. Sugoi great on take downs, **** for pruning - too rough Cos im only getting to climb at weekends I dont really get any chance to try diff hitches etc. As I've said to Steve would love to try other stuff but difficult to warrant it at the moment. I was taught old school over 20 yrs ago so prussik suits me OK for now. Boss is OK (comfortable) on open trees but a pain in the arse on tight climbs. Will prob be looking at a second harness APF. The groundy acting as a banksman and was a friend of the lad I did the job for, lets just say he had learned to keep his gob shut and eyes open earlier in the day