Today's Posts

Anyone know a source for Husqvarna A100 crank seals, or a part# or anything from another model that will fit and do the same job. tia.

I was thinking about what blower to buy the other day and it made me think which tools you want battery and which petrol. Chainsaws are stop start so battery ideal but for long stints of constant throttle, you need petrol. I'd put blowers, hedge trimmers and strimmers firmly in the constant running category. Battery polesaw would be fine.

You and these assumptions lad, the amount of times you have made a total tit of yourself I’d have thought you might have learned your lesson. He was crushed because he was under a car praying, in a workplace not paying attention to his surroundings, he’s a bloody fool quite frankly, it’s you not I that mentioned your second favourite word “ Muslim” . I wonder if it had been a daft bugger with a bible sat there and I’d posted exactly the same comment up I’d have got the same libtard outcry 🤔not a bloody chance. Anyway other thread loose ends etc etc any chance 🤷‍♂️

one of the worlds greatest comedy minds.

At least he's honest.

Wordle 1,469 4/6 🟨⬜⬜🟩⬜ 🟨🟨⬜🟩⬜ ⬜🟩🟩🟩⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

Thanks mate, what rigging rope would you use?

I'd hope to be a little deeper than 2' when it's my time.

You can have some of ours if you want

Don’t be daft, they grow back in the spring.

That split spacer is nothing to worry about regarding the loss or poor drive. That roll pin in the axle needs to slide easily from side to side. In the pic of the drive gear where you have circled in red on the inside of it, those three 'teeth' need to be nice and clean. Debris can build up in the corners and then the pin in the axle cannot get a good grip in the corners and can slip. Yours looks pretty clean though. It's a simple system as that's all there is to it. Assuming the corresponding larger gear inside the wheel hasn't got teeth missing then I cannot see an issue with the drive mechanism you have shown. If you are sensible, then remove both rear wheels plus the drive mechanism on the end of each axle rod...so all you have are the two rods protruding. Then lift the rear end of the mower (don't ground the deck) start the engine and engage the drive lever and then watch both axles...they should rotate. if not, then it will be the gearbox (or the cable has come unattached from the top of the gearbox- unlikely though) If there is some rotation...which there may be with zero resistance from the mower not being on the ground....then stop the mower. Re-fit the roll pins and both gears, lift the weight off the back end of the machine, start the engine, engage the drive again but get someone with a decent glove on to put gentle pressure on the drive pinions as they rotate....if you can stall the movement with your gloved hand then its the gearbox. As an aside.....you stated the belt is in place. However there should be a degree of tension on the belt otherwise it will simply slip on the pulley on the crankshaft. To check this- remove spark plug. Tip it on its side with the exhaust side facing the ground. Then rotate the blade by hand......there should be a positive grip by the belt in the crank pulley. If you can move the blade and the belt has little or no movement then it won't be transmitting the drive to the gearbox pulley. There is a tensioning mechanism on all this type of mower for the belt....mostly a tension spring on the gearbox to pull the gearbox on it's pivoting axles backwards to tension. Some have a metal bracket, which when fitted also lifts the front of the gearbox up and back...again to add tension. The springs have a habit of coming off in use, thus losing tension and then drive.

Here we go then. Lewis Capaldi not strictly my cup of tea, but did well. Looking forward to Alanis Morrisette.

Come now. Play along a bit. You're a batman. Advocate for your people. Unless your approach is just, "I'm not interested in your gay ideas of right and wrong. That's the way it is. £60ph." In which case you've rather proved my point.

Fabulous little things. Way cooler than a grom. I convinced a girlfriend to buy one. She ditched me and kept riding the bike (until it was stolen).

The chain link fence is most likely the original boundary if your house was built over the last 50 years or so. The deeds often state that a fence of this type will form the boundary. A very loose rule is that in a reasonable percentage of cases, the boundary owned by the house will be in the right facing the house but this isn't always the case but is most common. On the deeds, the "T" denotes ownership, "H" denotes a shared ownership. If the link fence matches up with the rear garden, this would also lean me to think it is the boundary. You can cut the hedge face, top and roots back on your side but if it dies or causes injury etc you may be found liable. Long and short, cut it back to a point where it will survive and grow back to form a green barrier. Neighbours can be dicks, use this period to "make hay" and get the hedge in to good order and use the link fence as a guide.

Using at the moment, wolf loppers and a bahco pole pruner with 6 metres of reach. After pruning 6 holm oak with loppers got to be easier way.

So I woke up this morning and noticed oil leaking on my patio from my Timberwolf 125 is it anything to worry about and do you think I could still use it any help would be great

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I prefer to call my dog “the ginger tick magnet” took 6 of her yesterday, averaging about 3 or 4 a day just now, I use the V shaped plastic tick tool and twist away.

Anyone know anyone in Halifax / Bradford area who wants to take on our hedges ? or know a good used one for sale to suit 110hp tractor Thanks

Insurers are bookies at heart and origin

Vibration is a oscillation X speed. Electric tools should have virtually no vibration in principal, unless the motor/bearings are is damaged. It's always the attachment that induces vibration. Grinders run super high rpm. If the disk is even slightly out of balance there is vibration. If the disk is perfectly balanced there should be no vibration. Petrol tools oscillate by nature, due to the crank and piston system. Electric saws have no inherent vibration in the motor and the chain speed (attachment) is low rpm and low mass, therefore no vibration from the attachment (unless damaged, missing teeth, improperly filed etc). Long reach hedge cutters are notorious for vibration as there are oscillating elements at both ends of the shaft. Any shafted tool can produce vibration of one or more of the shaft bearings goes bad. My 131 pole saw developed a bad bearing, it now vibrates so much it heats my gloved hand on the trigger handle within seconds, from the friction of glove material moving with the handle.