All Activity

nice touch that. im not big into the timber and chip sales but i reckon that i probably make 20k a year out of timber and chip out of my yard which covers my yard rent then gives me a bit of walking around money from time to time

You had a bloody near miss then, you could easily have had the misfortune of bumping into me!

Wordle 1,493 X/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜⬜🟩 ⬜🟩⬜⬜🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟨🟩 ⬜🟩🟨⬜🟩

PPE is the last line of defence something has gone very wrong if your cutting your trousers/ boots. A failure of many other steps. Mainly adminstrative thing like work breaks and welfare facilities to reduce fatigue, timescales and deadlines to prevent rushing. Operator refresher training and experience. Level of supervision for the operation adherence to best practice. The HSE would be all over this step well before they cared about the trousers rating. As FISA 301 states no PPE Can give 100% protection against cuts with a chainsaw. I did wear class 2 trousers for a few years just because they were on sale. They were ok. Not much less flexible than my gladiators. That I had before and after.. only ever worn Haix protector pro boots and they are class one.

Only ever use all round protection ...I've never had a a hit with a saw touch wood, If you don't have full protection...what's the point of wearing ppl?

Can someone please refresh my dating brain, obviously getting rid of plastic intake clamp on a husky 350 and not a big fan of the alternative metal clamp. Don't want a jubilee clip but there are others which screw from one side and pull the other to it which i cannot remember what they are called or whatever else someone can suggest thanks

Husqvarna 550xp Manual gives saw chain speed at maximum engine power as 19.6m/s, s, so Class 1 PPE would be totally adequate. Other factors in a Risk Assessment might include the likelihood of increased fatigue or overheating from higher class, heavier PPE, justifying a lower class.

Nice one Stubby, knees down mother Brown😳. Do you still have the blade?

I was staying in Leith!

Hmmm, wonder what JD Vance has been up to this week. Sticking it to Trump perhaps in subtle ways - good luck with that Trump is to narcissistic to take the hint.

Hi guys. Just checking that I can use this 5w-30 Fully Synthetic oil in the Forst st6p Vanguard engine Shell Helix Ultra PRO AF 5W-30 5L | Halfords UK WWW.HALFORDS.COM Shop the latest Experience unrivalled performance and engine protection with Shell's range of engine oils and lubricants...

I should do - just too cowardly to get on and do it

Tuna, sweetcorn, pepper, onion, tomatoes, celery and rice with a dollop of mayonnaise! Had this since I was a kid but mine rate it at the same level of sprouts or my legendary chicken chunder!

And once you have poured it in and rolled the tank about to coat the inside pour it back in the tin seal it up and keep it for the next tank. It says on the tin to bin it but I have used part tins several times, it's just real hard, fuel resistant paint you could use it anywhere.

Perhaps you could lead by example and vaporise yourself?

No thanks, that got turned off in less than half a second.

If he blocks the work, you pay them an amount for the trouble and claim it back frkm the neighbour. If he damages it, its another thing against him for the small claims court. You do the claim for any costs and damages against him. I wouldnt repeadedly rebuild it until the claim is settled. Nothing physical! Most people, bad neighbours included, have some respect for trades who are doing a job, its often enough to shut them up. I've seen some disputes ended that way.

Exactly! From the fencer/waller’s point of view both scenarios are a nightmare If he blocks them from doing the work, how do they do the work and get paid? They certainly don’t want to get physical with a member of the public. If he damages the fence/wall every night who is going to pay to repeatedly restart the work? Go to 1:20 seconds

No drive way

Did this get solved? I’m having the same issue. Occasionally a small drop of the saw will cause the intake pipe/boot to pull away from the carb. I have replaced all springs but I’m unsure if there isn’t something else I’m missing as there is a fair bit of play at the rear of the saw. It’s hard with no other saw to reference from.

i have a Stihl 2 in one sharpener. of late the price for the files just keeps going up. The files are peculiar to stihl, so i am stuck, not being able to shop around. Radmore and Tucker say that , you get about 8 sharpenings to the chain. This is getting pricey. The flat box file is stupidly pricey. i am now considering an electric sharpener. i am hoping that i do not get conned into buying a chinese knock off. afterall sharpening, is a precision operation. yet with this stihl cutomer services talk out of thier backside, resulting in wasting your time. Oregon, on the other hand, are quite helpful, so i am looking into getting one of thier sharpeners. i have a Stihl 120 battery saw. with a 1/4' pico chain. Oregon sharpeners are presently ticking the boxes for me. Yet having one of thiers could be time-consuming, getting to learn how to get it down to an art. The discs are a separate issue. maintaining/dressing the disc. Then changing the discs to address the rakers. Then the chain has to be cleaned before sharpening takes place, the thing is. dealers do not know anything. the onus is on the user

A picture of some. Other saws to add are husqvarnas 357xp 346xp 61 345and another Echo. Picture is of modified 362xp to a 372xp.

I’ll get you a box of Kleenex or some Tampax whichever suits best . https://www.linkedin.com/posts/ugcPost-7352712532798689280-GuvQ?utm_medium=ios_app&rcm=ACoAADB-kJ0BWrJUW5tVr2sxqvep_SKvMEUK9bk&utm_source=screenshot_social_share&utm_campaign=copy_link