Toad

The cable is locked into the car/charger electronically, so you either unlock it when you return or set it to unlock when you are charged so someone else can plug in.

No, but I'm sure I've met the type. When we didn't satisfy one complainant they told my manager that I'd been shagging the neighbour.

I disagree with some of the above statements. I work for an LA and dealt with neighbourly disputes for ten years. It made life considerably easier dealing with people who would engage and usually you would see who was being unfairly targeted quite quickly. Regular complainants/whingers soon became apparent.

L&S engineers have been great in supplying me with bits, but are closed till the new year.

Hermes are terrible here. They did have a depot on the next farm but most deliveries would come here from Southampton. I've had other couriers deliver a snowboard to a house two miles away instead of here and badly damage another snowboard.

I've ordered the factory tool, although it will take a bit longer to arrive than expected. I've recieved all of the other parts I've ordered but realised the other night that while it had been supplied with a crankcase gasket, and there were actually two in the box when I opened it, one was for a 346 and the other for a 372 when I looked properly at them, so I've had to order one subsequent to all of the other parts. I started stripping down the donor crankcase with the good crankshaft in it earlier to get a taste of how they are constructed vs the 372, seems fairly straightforward just coarse threaded screws rather than the fine thread on the larger saws. Had to make a flywheel puller as the one I had was slightly too narrow to work but not too concerned about that. The piston and cylinder off the donor crankcase look to be in good condition, so I'll squirrel them away in my spares pile in case of issues in the future.

Some temporary traffic lights will sense the cars passing after switching to red and will hold the all red phase for longer as a safety measure, therefore you're making the problem worse.

No worries. It's a really interesting thread, and has caught my imagination.

Ooops, chafey! I looked at the factory tool earlier. Might buy one and wang it up on ebay once used.

Maybe an old double chop forage harvester and blow it straight into a trailer as it cuts the vegetation, or perhaps round bale it and leave the bales to rot down as a habitat for some insects? Bit like they do in Europe on highway verges.

If you don't mind me asking, how do you split the cases? Do I remember you having something that attaches to the bar studs to press the clutch side free?

Thanks for the responses. I was going to hold off doing anything with the saw until the new year and save putting anything on the credit card, but I got bored and ordered all of the parts i think i will need today. All of the components for the engine have been ordered through L&S engineers, and I shopped around for a bar - there is one already on the saw, but I thought I'd go all out on renewing it. I'll order some exl chains through chainsawbars at some point in the new year. I decided to keep the 3/8 chain after all. I would have quite liked to try the new husky bars and chains, but it'll be less faffy when looking for files. One thing I forgot to order was new crankcase stuffers. Should I look to replace them? From reading the workshop manual I understand that the crankcase needs to be heated to release the crankshaft bearings rather than using a splitting tool like the 372 crankcase and then heated again to reinstall the new bearings.

In another attempt to keep myself entertained and provide another useful tool at the end of it, I am going to rebuild a 357. I accidentally bought the crankshaft and crankshaft seal installation tool a while back as it was labelled incorrectly on Ebay so buying a knackered saw to go with it seemed to make sense. My intention, as with the 371 I have is to rebuild the entire saw, fitting new bearings, seals and rubber components resulting in what should be for all intents and purposes a new saw which should fulfill my requirements for years to come. The base saw seems pretty good with what feels like great compression but a few knackered components requiring a good overhaul. The first debate I have is that the saw currently has a 3/8 bar and chain. I'm going to replace the clutch drum, bearing and powermate so will only need to buy an oil pump pinion to convert it to 0.325. Looking at the excellent chainsawbars.co.uk site, the 0.325 bar and chain selection for this saw is both larger and significantly cheaper than the 3/8 and the difference in price in the bar would more than pay for the pinion, therefore it seems to make sense to convert. However, I already have a selection of files for 3/8 chain and although the cost of these files would be covered by the price difference of the bar, it would be more stuff to have knocking around the tool box. So, what would other people do? Stick with 3/8 or convert it. The saw will be used for firewood and general duties around the farm although we have both larger and smaller saws available if that makes any difference. As I set about the stripping, cleaning and rebuilding I'll add photos if people are interested. Hopefully I'm going to find a few moments when the dishwasher isn't being monitored to stick the crankcase and plastics in to clean properly.

I've got a crankshaft, piston and oil pump from a 268 as well as a starter cover if you need them. The saw was modified by something heavy so was binned.

Have you looked at what is specified by the manufacturers of cellweb or similar?

It is down to the filtration level, 80 micron, 44 micron or felt. There is more of a description on here. https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/diagram/husqvarna/chainsaws/826001/550 xp__xpg/

What make is the telehandler? Got a helpful local tractor fitter?

I agree.

Had a quick nibble through some wood today to check all was well. Need to spend some time setting the carb up properly as it gets more run in. The decompression valve was sticking and leaking so I pulled that off, gave it a quick blast out with carb cleaner and compressed air and it seems happier again. I assume it was my overzealous application of oil during the build that gummed it up as the valve was new this year.

Finally got round to doing something with the broken 371 this weekend. I gave the crankcase several good washes and even put it through the dishwasher to get the cement dust off it, and there were still bits hanging around in the corners and in castings and flanges, but nothing likely to cause many more issues. After the fight to get the two stroke aroma out of the dishwasher I decided not to use the oven to heat the cases, but used a hot air gun, infrared thermometer and sockets to tap the bearings into the case. I invested in the genuine husqvarna crank shaft and oil seal fitting tools and they made a huge difference to the job after fiddling with sockets and washers in the past. The breather for the oil tank was fairly full of dust and crap so swapped that while I had the crankcase in bits. Recieved the new one today and finished putting the saw back together tonight. It fires up, revs and oils. Just need to test it properly at the weekend.

In future I shall. I know it's a hard job to run and moderate a forum, I've done both and I'm grateful to you and the moderators for providing this forum and the work that goes into it to keep it running.

I've seen people use the word p*ki, n*gger and I've been called a limp wristed lefty remoaner c*nt. In the last couple of months. I can imagine that people who just want to chat about carving bears etc would be put off by that. I'd prefer more bear carving.

Might be that they are saying 10 days to cover any issues or problems on site, but are planning to be done in a shorter timescale. Perhaps it is because of potential issues with the weather?

Certain diesel Mercedes cars get exported to have the engines used in boats. There is a big call for older more mechanical cars and equipment in other parts of the world.