Toad

The layouts for the signs in the red book comes from chapter 8of the traffic signs manual. The red book is just a condensed user friendly version of it really. The layouts are all numbered, sc refers to single carriageway and dz refers to dual carriageway. Sc1 is works on a footway, sc2 works in the middle of the road, sc3 is give and take etc. Sc1 is shown below.

Best thing for the crash barrier might be to round up it off each year, then manage the veg behind it with a flail. However I would expect whomever is responsible for the crash barrier should be trimming around it to allow them to inspect it properly each year. I think you'd definitely want two way lights with a pedestrian walkway within the traffic lights (sc7 with sc1). With regard to the traffic management, I think you would struggle to ensure that you are covered by insurance if you don't have your 12d and nrswa qualifications, and I doubt the highway authority would give you the road space to undertake the works either.

You will need a temporary traffic regulation order to reduce the speed limit. You can only do it in 20mph drops, so 60 to 30 needs two orders I believe. I'll have a proper read and look at the pictures later, but I might be able to provide a few suggestions.

Nope, no instructions, but it is a copy of a husqvarna 372, there are the workshop manuals, parts lists online and a large number of videos on YouTube. They are worth watching just for a few pointers/ideas about how chainsaws work and are built anyway. Good luck with the florabeast!

Pretty much rubbing any of my tips in a cheese grater beats it!

I don't disagree Bill. If I can find something interesting or useful at a decent price, I'll know a lot more about the realistic prospects of me building something useful out of it. I'd quite like a 357 or 560 if I can find one. I am finding the size of the components a challenge - it's all a bit small compared to a car or tractor.

I'm a little bit lost? What could I have purchased new for the same money? Luckily I have plenty of time to fiddle with, and you never know what useful little things will pop up because of the experience I'm getting. Beats watching strictly come dancing.

Well one reason for getting it was to become a lot more familiar with the construction of the saws and how to maintain them, I'm definitely becoming more familiar with how to take it apart. ? also, I wanted another saw, the options were >£500 for a new saw, £300 for a second hand saw with unknown problems, or £160 for this kit £70 perhaps for some bits and I get to learn a lot in the process. This chainsaw isn't going to earn me money or get used a great deal so a few issues aren't the end of the world. Oh and a bit of research shows a number of these saws getting a fair bit of use in America without too many problems.

Thanks. I wonder if the melted pinion fibres got stuck in the seal which added to the issue.

My bodge of the husqvarna vent and huztl tank didn't work. I've ordered a new tank - £14 from China. I replaced the oil pump drive after the original melted a bit but I'm not happy it is engaging properly. The chain is getting oil, having run it up, so I will keep an eye on it. The oem brake band and spring definitely work well and the chain won't rotate, as you would expect, with it applied. Sadly during the strip down of the saw to replace these bits I've discovered that the crank seal on the pto side has melted a bit, this might be me not lubricating it enough, the heat from the melting clutch drive, being a bit crap or all three. I'll order some genuine ones and fit them - I hope this is fairly straightforward with the crank in place, I guess I'll find out soon enough! Overall, I'm grumpy, but it's just little frustrations rather than any one significant issue. I knew that it would have a few of these things to sort.

There are some good d3o mountain biking knee pads around. They might do the job and give you a bit of support too.

Hi Rob. How does the offer work on your website, if I order the exl, does the log chain get automatically added in, or do I need to add it separately? Will probably order some tonight/tomorrow. Cheers. Tom

Tried swapping the tank breather tonight. The huztl unit is a sintered bronze filter in front of a little rubber tube in a stepped plastic tube. It's a right turd to remove. The bronze is hard to drill into to get a screw to bite to pull it out. The plastic tube is fitted tightly inside the tank, and finally, none of the oem parts fit once you've buggered the huztl part. The outside diameter of the husqvarna part is about 1mm too large, so in desperation I fitted it into the pillar drill and used wet and dry to take the diameter down and give it a bit of a taper. I used instant gasket and tapped it in using a punch. The foam plug is then too small for the tube into the tank, so I cut the original breather tube off about 1cm long, filled the hole in the sintered brass with solder and then pushed the bit of tube with the brass inside it back into the tank. Fingers crossed it actually works.... brake and oil pump tomorrow.

Is there anything in this thread?

When setting my girlfriend up in her own business recently we spoke to a book keeper to find out what we needed to do regarding tax etc and her advice was to phone the HMRC and chat with them too. Really helpful.

Cheers. I'm really looking forward to getting over the little niggles and starting to use it properly. Yours sounds like an awesome project. I work in an office these days, I really don't need a saw, let alone a bigger saw, but things like that makes me want to invest in more toys. Hah. Hopefully I'll get all the spares by next weekend and have it up and running then.

Had more of a fiddle with the saw this morning and changed a few bits I don't like, took the mounting bracket off the front of the muffler and fitted the dog, the screw supplied for the roller chain catcher was too short, so fitted the usual aluminium L shaped piece and a longer bolt. Tached it to 12k rpm and had a bit of a go on a few bits of beech. The saw ran well and cuts nicely with a 20" bar and full chisel chain. Have found a few issues with the saw, I knew it wouldn't be perfect, so this was to be expected. The chain brake doesn't work. I think the brake band is too long as it doesn't clamp the drum tightly and when the brake is off it tries to uncool from the plastic nubbin. I'll order a genuine one and see if that fixes it. The oil pump adjuster spring caught, snapped and the screw undid. This was suggested as a likely issue but I thought I could get around it by bending the pinion. The pinion has melted on the inside, I think this might be the issue with the spring, screw etc. Luckily I have a complete spare oil pump if I need it. I'll order a genuine spring. The petrol tank breather leaks fuel quite badly when tipped on its side. Will have to replace it. The main thing I've taken from this build is a bit more confidence with 2 strokes, and enthusiasm to strip my 371 down and refresh it.

To be honest, I'm just bored and need something to do. I'm going to get some wood off a friend and sell a few little bags of logs through the farm shop I think which would pay for the saw.

I've read the workshop manual again and realised the coil is actually fine. Silly me.

The good old days. I remember the excitement you would feel when you saw a flash of the glossy cover of a magazine between the leaves and find a hearty stash of second hand grot. One time it backfired though, I was pedalling along on my bicycle to my cousin's house when I caught sight of a paper bag stuffed in a hedge. I skidded to a halt, scampered over like only a 13 year old with the promise of used w*nk fodder could, pulled the magazine from the bushes and started furiously flicking through the pages in search of lovely, friendly ladies attempting to show you what they had for breakfast, only to find it was just full of naked gentlemen with massive boners. I'd stumbled across Hampshire's finest gay porn hedge accidentally.

Got it running tonight. Should have taken more photos through the process. Have been working on it after work during the week for an hour or two and for a while this morning and evening. Had a few little issues, and have a few things to get over still, but hope to attack some wood with it tomorrow. Sorted the issues with the clutch threads on Friday night so got on with fitting the o ring, bushing and washer on the oil pump side. Gasket matched and polished the exhaust port and finished tidying the inlet. Ground the carb plate back so that the piston and boot would fit. In hind sight a genuine boot would have been better. This morning I used hermatite to seal the oil pickup pipe and fitted the oil pump. The oil pump drive spur did occasionally brush the spring when I tried it, but bending the spur out a little made it clear comfortably. Hand tightened the clutch after applying some copper grease. The washer and e clip supplied to hold the clutch on aren't really to my liking. The e clip is too loose and there is too much play behind the washer. I've got a spare set of both somewhere in a drawer so I'll try them. Put the piston on and fitted the cylinder head to check the squish, as I suspected from looking at the cylinder, the squish band is smaller towards the centre of the cylinder and larger at the outside. The minimum squish was around 0.3mm so too tight without a gasket I believe. I think I might remove the cylinder and have it machined to flatten the squish band and delete the gasket, but for now I built it up and will worry about that later. Fiddled with the clamp for the inlet for a while and ended up with it at the bottom of the pipe with the screw head at the flywheel side as per the manual, but slightly rotated clockwise to miss the impulse pipe. The carb, pipes and choke lever fitted without much incident. The metal ring was difficult to fit inside the intake pipe, but got there with a bit of fiddling. The coil didn't fit terribly well with the flywheel - the centre point seems to be too far out compared to the top and bottom points, but it sparks which will do for now. Fitter the cylinder anti vibe spring and rotated it until it lined up with handle. Fairly happy with the fitment for now. The main issue with fitment has been the exhaust. It's bolted up to the cylinder fine, but it seems to be twisted, the top doesn't line up with the cylinder fins and the front holes are a long way out. The bracket is a long way from fitting and will interfere with the dog. I hope it is the silencer rather than the cylinder. I've also run out of suitable bolts to hold the silencer and dog on. I've got a couple of long black coloured bolts and a medium length chrome plated bolt. I'll have to find some more suitable bolts to finish it. The last issue I've had so far appeared when I tried to start it. It popped after a couple of pulls but wouldn't run. I kept trying and was rewarded with a few flames out of the exhaust and a backfire. Further investigation revealed that the key on the flywheel had sheared off completely. I might well not have tightened it properly. I cleared this all out, marked the position of the key on the face with a marker pen and fitted the flywheel in the correct place and tightened it down well. Then tried again. The saw started after a few pulls, idled steadily and reved up freely. Pulling the saw over without the decomp gives the impression that the compression is higher than my genuine 37à. The top plastics don't fit brilliantly due to the intake boot being wrong and the fitment against the ground out carb plate. I might drill the holes in the covers out a bit bigger as the screws have to thread through them and this makes fitting and removing them difficult, and I think I might end up removing them a fair bit.

What is your eBay user id? I'd be interested in buying a husky 372xp/365xp if you had one.

Put the crankcase together today. Was hoping to use the clutch and washers in the same way I used the flywheel nut, but it turned into a massive pain in the arse with an issue with the clutch thread. Used the crank case bolts to slowly pull it together instead. Could tighten them by hand with the socket for some way and put plenty of lube on the crankshaft to help it slide in. Used a brass drift and hammer to de-stress the bearings which made a noticeable difference in the ease of turning the crank. Hopefully will sort out the clutch threads tomorrow night and build a bit more up.

Awesome. Close to me then. Ac6 is a 6mm tarmac. Same sort of thing you get on footways etc. I can suggest a few people. Southern drives did an access for me at home recently and have done jobs for me through work. Always been pleased with the quality of the work. They are based down in farlington I think. Might have to put an aco channel in the front behind the highway boundary. I'm assuming this work would be all on private land? Nothing on the highway? The cost of licenses has gone up a lot in Hampshire.