Toad
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Everything posted by Toad
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17-18000 rpm? That is faster than I would have expected. Is the clutch just being dragged round by friction from the bearing etc? Have I read it correctly that you don't have a bar and chain fitted right now? Great work in getting it going!
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Thank you. The bar is already part worn, think a new one might be in order. What was the longest you ran on your 385?
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Thank you. Might you have a suggestion as to how long a bar I could run? I'll have a rummage on @RobD's website again over the rest of the weekend.
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I've managed to acquire a husky 385, assuming I don't have too many issues with the rebuild, I might like to do a little bit of milling, we've a few trees around the farm that would be nice to turn into something that we can keep around for a few years, my sister is building a log cabin in the next few years and a few bits for shelving, or a table would be great. What would be the best route to go down, I've had a look at the 36" ecomill package on Rob's site, apart from the bar and chain, I guess this would be a good place to start? Can I start off with the 28" or 24" bars and chains (73 exl or lpx) I already own as a start to better to get a decent bar and milling specific chain to start with? EcoP-36 Eco Milling Package 36"[91cm] EcoMill/7ft[213cm] 1st Cut System/Oiler/Vertical Mill WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK EcoP-36 Eco Milling Package 36"[91cm] EcoMill/7ft[213cm] 1st...
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Are you complaining about people working in a foreign country, while you are working in a foreign country?
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With a lack of anything else to do this weekend I've stripped the saw down to a point I know what parts/work should be needed and can start to clean it up and rebuild, but I have a few questions, if anyone might be able to advise? It is a late 2005 model saw and I believe the pto/clutch side bearing and seal were changed in early 2005. The seal that is in it is similar to the 346 clutch side bearing in that it is inserted into the bearing. I assume the replacement is part no. 503 26 22 01 as that is what seems to be listed for the later saws and I should be able to carefully remove the old one with a small screwdriver or a hook? The flywheel side seal looks just like the 372 seals so I'm hoping to be able to drive that in with the 372 tool. The fuel tank breather is loose, what is the best way to fix that in place? Use some of the threebond 1184 I use on the crankcase after carefully cleaning it?
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So I definitely need a piston, it's an unbranded aftermarket cylinder so will probably replace that too. Will put a carb kit in, new fuel and impulse line, intake boot, crank seals plus fix up a few little bits I'm not overly enthusiastic about otherwise it seems quite solid. The piston appears to have touched the crankcase at bdc scraping some of the paint from the inside of it which doesn't look ideal. I assume the piston skirt was a bit long.
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Thanks all so far, I had been looking around and found that the 390 parts seemed more available on the L&S engineers website, but didn't want to buy parts that would not fit. I'm getting my hands on a 385 with unknown faults. Thinking of going for a complete rebuild in the same way I did my 357 and 371, the parts seem a bit more expensive than the smaller saws at the moment. It is a saw that will be used incredibly rarely so will be run on Aspen to save any carb or fuel system issues.
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China was running at 20% fuel sales and the UK is around 40% I believe. Nearly all derv.
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Husqvarna sp33g?
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Evening. I'm a bit curious about the differences between the 385 and 390, was it just the piston and cylinder that were different? Are all other parts interchangeable? I've had a look around for a meteor piston and cylinder but struggling a little. Has anyone got any advice on British or European suppliers? Thank you!
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I was on the phone in the kitchen yesterday morning and noticed some bloke wandering around, assumed he was a scruffy delivery driver who was lost. 2 hours later find out a neighbour had their bike nicked from their garage. The bloke had some bollocks wandering around in the middle of the day, the garage it was nicked from is built into the house as well.
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For now they aren't really bothering me. I think the left one gets a bit sore when I've been doing heavy lifting, but that isn't a usual occurrence for me these days. My dad has had both sides of his groin done and has the umbilical hernia now so I guess it's a genetic trait. I think I might have done the umbilical one while snowboarding last year taking a heavy heel edge catch.
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The WHO visited China and said they found no evidence of their figures being under reported. Statistically the data from China shows that places like the USA are not reporting cases, probably due to not testing.
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I've got three, not that I'm trying to trump you, one umbilical and one each side in the groin. Was due to have them all tucked back in over the next month or two, luckily they don't bother me at the moment. Had horrendous pain in my left testicle for a while which may have been the hernia, it got to the point where I couldn't really speak at times.
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Yeah, think so. They look like honey bees and you can see the honeycomb when the bit of wood isn't on the open end of the trunk on the floor. One of our new neighbours is an apiarist so might get her to try to liberate some honey.
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Not too bad. They inhabit both sections so I assume there is a queen in both. Hopefully we can protect them and keep them going for some time.
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Introducing Husqvarna X-CUT saw chain, crafted for productivity
Toad replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
Has anyone got the filling angles for the sp33g chain? -
Is there something that should make the far right football hooligan mortgage fraudster who has spent time in prison for kicking a policeman in the head not abhorrent?
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You can find both abhorrent, it's not a choice.
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I worked for a couple in Australia once, she had been a nurse. She was convinced that Aids came from donkeys, and that some dirty bugger had been shagging donkeys and gave the disease to other humans.
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Schedule of rates.
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Last time i split a case i used a heat gun and hammer worked well enough but if you find one at a sensible price could you tag a link always like to have interesting lumps of metal in the shed I have the Huztl one for some husqvarna saws which I think works on a number of other saws too. https://m.huztl.net/Chainsaw-Repair-Tools-c3056.html
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Sorry, wasn't the best explanation, as htb says you need to divide the rpm by 60 to get the revs per second to get metres per second.
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Engine speed given in RPM, chain speed in metres per second.
