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Danny Boy

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About Danny Boy

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    East Kilbride

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  1. Interesting setup. Not quite sure what to make if it. Portable Universal Track Chainsaw Mill Coin Lumber Planking Boards Milling, WWW.EBAY.CO.UK One man operation no need for heavy plant. Perfect for planking and coins. Logs can also be secured vertically, allowing them to be sawn into coins. CHAINSAW NOT SUPPLIED. The Universal Woodworking Station can also be used as a sawhorse.
  2. Your primary source if heat is the wood burner. I wouldn't worry about what you're losing from a few foot of flue. Any flue going thru ceilings or roofs etc has do be twin walled & I'm not sure if strictly speaking you can get away with having the length between the top of the stove & the approach to the ceiling as single flue. Either way having a twin walled flue all the way up improves the draw so I'd say everything seems ok.
  3. Good idea. The one thing I'd say for any sliding doors outside would be either suspend them with the roller on top or have a raised channel with grooved wheels on the bottom. Just incase the channels fill with debris or water & freeze in the winter. Had to look into all this recently when thinking about a sliding gate at home.
  4. Sliding doors! That's the great thing about forums. There's always an obvious simpler easier solution just round the corner [emoji1] Personally RT, I'd go for wind over sun if I had to choose. In an ideal world both would be great. Its probably most important to keep rain off to avoid mold.
  5. Maybe keeping noise levels down too? Not sure how much attention you'd want to attract living out on your own.
  6. You're right, huge doors like that would be a bit trickier especially with windy days. On that case if you're quite happy that the weather conditions you mentioned are pretty stable for you then have the entire walled section at the back where the logs are kept (facing the wind) louvered & just leave the front open. [emoji1]
  7. Here's photos of my customers woods store. Gives a better idea.
  8. I think having pairs of doors to each bay is a very versatile option as Mrblue says. As off-putting as a bit more complication sounds don't let it put you off what's gonna work best for you. When I mentioned louvered sides I meant as walls but no reason they can't be used as doors. The extra timber will make them heavier though so might be best to get softwood slats or ranch boards or feather edge boards from a timber supplier. You could use something similar to the Outer String on a staircase to fix the louvres onto.
  9. Another option is to have horizontal louvres. The easiest way to describe it is like old slatted cupboard doors but on a bigger scale. Using 4"-6" wide boards with a gap anything from 2"-4". You'll get 100% side coverage, the wind can go right thru & most of the driving rain should hit the diagonal slats & run down. One of my customers gave me the idea & said he saw it in Switzerland. You could easily go for a 3:1 or 4:1 Gap:Board ratio. Only disadvantage is you use more timber & a bit fiddlier to do but that's nothing major. Although you might want to watch how much wind you let in. Don't want the whole barn taking off! Obviously you'd have the door upside down to what's in the photo.
  10. Danny Boy

    Fencing cost

    Agreed, I wouldn't bother drilling twice. I find the size of hole you end up with is roughly an inch bigger in diameter than the bit you use cause of all the soil & stones rattling around. I use a 7” (8" hole) auger for 4" posts & a 5" (6" hole) auger for 3" posts.
  11. Danny Boy

    Fencing cost

    I bought a one man petrol auger years ago & it's great. A 2nd hand Mitsubishi one for £100. When they work, they work great but they do get stopped by roots & bigger stones & then you just remove whatever obstacle by hand or pinch bar & carry on. Also agree on getting your timber from a timber & dedicated fencing supplier (I'm lucky enough to have 2 within a few minutes of me). The builders merchants seem more expensive.
  12. Well the soil is far from good & dry so perhaps that rules that out.... Am I right in thinking after 20 years or so of coppacing willow or anything for that matter, the ground is gonna be a bit of a state full of stumps & not really available to do much unless it's cleared 1st?
  13. Anyone on here have any experience of using Miscanthus as a Coppice?

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