Darkslider

If mating faces are flat and clean (check both with a straight edge, make sure you can't see any light between the two) and gasket is in good condition (you're not meant to re-use gaskets really but 99% of people do) gently try the mounting bolts in the holes to make sure they're not bottoming out before the exhaust is being clamped sufficiently tight. I had this on an old concrete saw that had been in bits, screws had got mixed up and the screws holding the exhaust on were a few mm too long so held the muffler on just about but weren't clamping it to the cylinder at all.

Jack it up and spin the wheels to see if there's any resistance, worth trying cold and hot maybe. If the wheels are a bit stiff to turn at any point you need to investigate why, on older trailers it's normally rusty brake cables seizing and not releasing the shoes properly but can't imagine you'll be having that problem yet. If I had to guess I'd suspect your bearings might have been nipped up a bit too tight at the last service or maybe at the factory and you're only noticing now? Easy job to back off the castle nuts one tooth all the way round and as long as there's no excessive play after that might fix your issue. I'd have thought a trailer specialist would have tried all the above mind but you never know!

All sorted now cheers

I've got half a dozen cherry laurel I bought cheap as poor quality potted plants, did everything wrong when it came to planting them and they still thrived! Hardy buggers and make a great hedge.

Roots need to be able to get air and moisture, doesn't take much of a change to cut off that supply, even compacting the existing soil around the base could be enough to suffocate it. My first step would be to strip the top layer back off and see if it improves matters, won't cost you anything other than an hour or two of your time

I've been told The Green card is coming under more scrutiny as too many trades are doing the bare minimum to get through the site gate then picking up their tools once they're in to undertake work their labourer card doesn't entitle them to do. As with most of these things it depends how on the ball each site agent is. The citb site says 'If you do not have these qualifications, but you are experienced in your job and have registered for a qualification applicable to your occupation, you may apply for an Experienced Worker Card. Click here for further details on the Experienced Workers card.' In my experience the citb are helpful when you phone them and they just want your money for card applications and test fees, so if you phone them up and explain you need site access for tree works and that your Lantra/NPTC cert is the standard for your industry I can't see why they wouldn't issue a blue 'skilled worker' card. I converted my mechanics NVQ to one even though it isn't construction related, just said I might be required to maintain plant as I knew how and supplied the certificate and that was enough.

Interesting video not seen that one before, but where is he? He sounds British but that sure doesn't look British, the vehicles and road markings are different even though they're driving on the left. I'm guessing New Zealand?

Bumping this as I'm considering one too... Primarily because I'm not sure how much use its going to get and I don't want to chuck it after 5 years when it's out of date but still looks like new, the UV indicator means the clock is only ticking on it when you're using it outside.

Maybe I need to change pickups rather than changing boots 🤔

To save me starting another boot thread, I get annoyed with my cheap Solidurs when driving the pickup as they don't bend at the ankle very well and the fat chainsaw tongue keeps catching the fuel cap release lever above the pedals. Anyone else (with a jap pickup) notice this? Is it just a function of thick stiff chainsaw boots and I've got to live with it? Or if I buy some better ones will they be more flexible/have lower profile tongue padding?

I think because you can't immediately identify danger like you can with a petrol saw running they've had to make it harder to inadvertently depress the 'throttle' when picking the saw up. Makes sense as it's easy for the saw to turn itself on while being rattled around in the back of your pickup or van, and you'd be miffed if you go to haul it out and shred up your passenger seat for example 🤣 whereas the chance of a petrol saw starting itself on the drive to the job is somewhat smaller.

Sorry but struggling to make sense of what the problem is. What do you mean by rev it slowly, as in when the revs are low? Or if you build up the revs slowly? Centrifugal clutches work by the rotational force eventually overcoming the spring tension and gripping the sprocket drum, so you might have a tight spot somewhere either in the clutch, brake band, bar or chain that's taking a bit more grunt to get moving. Sure you've assembled it all correctly? But as above comment if you're using a top handle I'd hope you'd have the knowledge to suss that out pretty quickly, you are aware they're only for pros and shouldn't be used on the ground? Apologies if you're a climber of many years experience 😂

Yup, full power Aprilia RS125s have been known to make upwards of 30bhp, but that's a liquid cooled motor with a 300x300 radiator designed to run in a 70 mph cold air stream so I'd imagine that raises the power ceiling significantly!

I normally stay away from the beef as I'm not a confrontational type, but I'm interested to know where your allegations are coming from. I've been on and off this site for many years and in all that time I've only ever seen good reviews for Spud and helpful advice from him for others including myself, to the point he's probably done himself out of some repair work because he's so keen to help people over the web! Unless you've paid for him to port/repair a saw and received it back with parts/performance you're not happy with then I don't see how you can be able to publically judge his work and risk putting future clients off using him or even putting him off using arbtalk and losing the site a valuable contributor. Just my 2P, I've never met either of you or had a saw ported by any of you so I've got no dog in this fight, just the way I see it from the posts I've read. 👍

Are you referring to the pictures of his rebuilt 200T he keeps sharing? Pure filth indeed 🥰

Is this screw loose? Might be a good place to start. I'd assume you've got a cable or linkage problem due to something coming loose.

Disclaimer: I don't know the first thing about the chippers or engines in question. However I'd imagine the dealers and manufacturers who detuned the machines in the first place are the last people you'd want to consult about reversing the procedure, you want an independent who can give you unbiased advice not someone who stands to profit if you can be convinced to pay the extra for a higher powered model with the same powertrain. This has been going on with cars for some time, VAG vehicles in particular having differing power figures between lower specs and GTI/VRS/S-line models despite in some cases having broadly the same hardware. You'd never get a main dealer salesman to admit that though, you need to go to the independent tuners for the real story.

Bought this one, it tore like a carrier bag second time I slid the bar into it. I must have godlike chain sharpening powers 😎

Does anyone make one of these for the MS200t? Or is it not possible due to the 90 degree angle it takes?

If it's 6 months old and has 'always' had running problems reset the carb to factory settings and put in a warranty claim as there's obviously something amiss with the saw. Efco are cheap saws but I wouldn't include them in the disposable chinesium category, I'd still expect to get a few years domestic use out of one before running into problems for what they cost.

Just been nosy at the specs and according to Stihl the MS201T makes 0.1 hp more than the 200T. Is this just them fudging the figures to make the newer saw look like less of a backward step? Anyone who knows anything knows peak horsepower figures are meaningless it's area under the curve that really matters so is this where the 200t has the newer models pants down? 😂

Only way I can see it is to lump the charge on top the bill for any customers in the area. If I lived in one of these zones I'd be fully expecting services to go up as a result of this. Obvious downside is it will be pricing smaller firms (in all industries) out of the cities and leaving them for big boys with sub 3 year old fleets. Pleased I live in North Wales and unlikely to be affected by this for some time. By the time it gets up here EV 4x4s and pickups will hopefully be ten a penny!

If cleaning and servicing doesn't improve matters do a compression test next and/or pop the muffler to examine the state of the piston and rings. I've just bought a 200t with the same problem as you describe cutting out at idle occasionally, piston turned out to be scrap and I've not checked but I bet compression is low. Might be worth you checking before throwing any serious money at yours 👍

Different mix? Seems to be the consensus on here that you mix fuel based on the oil manufacturers recommendation, not the machine manufacturer. Some cheaper or older machines still specify 40:1 which is apparently a hangup from the good old days of poor oil quality. Full disclosure: I haven't owned a 40:1 machine myself and run it on 50:1 to confirm or deny how accurate this is, just repeating what I've been told by multiple sources 😎

I dunno but that plug looks ancient so I wouldn't be putting it back in. Check and clean the air and fuel filters, sprocket and bearing condition, new plug and perhaps run a bit of carb cleaner through it would be my simple first steps, with some more technical ones after if the problem persists.