Darkslider
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Everything posted by Darkslider
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Also an example of why taking them apart to clean them periodically is worthwhile, the screw holding the other remaining earth lead terminal was loose by a few turns as well, I'm guessing I'd have had running/switching issues if I'd left it much longer.
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A Google search turns up: 'It is there to ensure that the coil and engine/sparkplug have the same ground reference value. Plastic saw frames need this It will find the ground thru the other wire but a short direct route is the best way' If anyone else is interested. Going to remake the connection anyhow.
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You'd almost get two if you bought from my local shop! Seen loads of these around living only a few miles from the dealer, nobody seems to have a bad word to say about them for the money. I can see me picking one up for £2-3k in a few years.
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Just replaced one on a 'well maintained' 2nd hand purchase, old drum had chunks missing out of it, guide bar turned blue on the edges and gouges everywhere from repeated chain drops. I always keep my stuff well serviced and keep on top of wear and chain tension, I can't believe how much everyone seems to lose their chains as it's not once happened to me. I wonder if this will change once I start using a saw 40 hours a week rather than 40 hours a year 🤔 or if the vast majority of arborists simply flog their kit to death and then replace it when it succumbs to the lack of maintenance 😂
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Teaspoon of lavender oil per tank should sort that I imagine? 🤣
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Another mildly interesting find on my project CS-350TES: took the recoil starter off to give it a clean inside and found the black earth lead from the coil broken, about 60mm of wire missing. News to me as the saw started, runs and stops ok without it, which begs the question what does it do or is there some redundancy built in as it's a kill switch system? 🤔
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I had a quick fondle of the Echo DCS-2500t in my local dealer today, nice and light and looks a well put together machine. Quieter than my cordless hedge trimmer too, I'd feel much better about grabbing it to rip up a bit of firewood out front of an evening, with a petrol saw I'm always half expecting an irate neighbour to pop out! Think it'll be a serious contender for next top handle as the shop is 5 minutes from my door 🤔
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I've been through similar on a BG86 blower, the one that the casing screws unwind and jam up the flywheel. In this instance it shattered the little end of the conrod and would have required a whole crankshaft assembly; the parts weren't available separately. The cost of a whole new crank made it uneconomical to repair, I'm sure I remember it being the best part of £100 when our local dealer was selling the machines for something like £189.
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I know Echo haven't got the best rep for parts availability at the best of times, but does anyone know whether the 8 day lead time I've been quoted for a sprocket cover is realistic given the state of the shipping world currently? My local dealer said there was no stock whatsoever showing for him to order, so placed an order for the part from an online supplier who looked like they had it in country only to get a message saying they didn't and it was on backorder from Japan. It's for an older CS-350tes so hoping they don't turn around in two weeks and say its just no longer available, otherwise I'd have wasted time I could have spent getting it shipped from the States where there seems to be plenty of stock still 🙄
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Still a few new ones kicking round such as this one New Chainsaw STIHL MS 250 STIHL Guide Bar 16" 40cm STIHL Chain 3/8" 1.3mm 55 DL WWW.EBAY.CO.UK CHAINSAW STIHL MS 250. STIHL Oilomatic saw chain pitch/type. 325" Rapid Super. ORIGINAL STIHL GUIDE BAR... So I think they were probably in production until recently when the 251 superseded it.
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Good choice, big enough to tackle most jobs you'll have at home but you can still use it all day, plus I'd imagine spares availability is still pretty good for them as they've had a long run, think you might still be able to buy them new? If it were mine I think when the bar and chain needed replacement I'd drop down to a 15 or 16 inch bar, 18" is a lot for that to pull. It'll still get the job done however just a bit slower.
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Had to do the passenger side on mine, easily diyable drying the carpet out after is the hardest bit! Some people said that the screw hole for the plastic trim on top lets water in too, and also there's a folded lip where the side panel meets the roof that isn't watertight either, but mine had factory sealant and paint on it so it was definitely the window in my case.
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They've recently started a direct sales website for just about every tool you can think of: Hyundai Power Equipment - Official UK Home of Hyundai Power Equipment and Products HYUNDAIPOWEREQUIPMENT.CO.UK Hyundai Power Equipment, official UK home of Hyundai Power Equipment, garden machinery and power products, such as... Given how cheap it all is I'd be surprised if it wasn't rebranded Chinese kit , but I've taken a punt on one of the silenced compressors so I can clean my saws in the kitchen 😎 and a guy I know in the village is a one man band gardener type and has one of the chippers which he seems happy with.
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Symptoms sound like it might be dropping into limp home due to overboost, quite common with vgt turbos that are always driven gently EGR systems coke everything up with carbon and then the vanes stick and can't change as boost increases like they should. If you've a mechanical boost actuated waste gate (like my 2006 L200) if the actuator hose is loose or holed that can have a similar effect, boost increases but isn't pressurising the actuator to open the waste gate so nowhere for all the extra air to go until the PCM cuts the fuelling. Easy to rule out by looking at MAP figures in live data on a decent scantool, or installing a mechanical gauge, I would imagine the Canter shouldn't have manifold pressure of more than 2 bar if everything is working correctly.
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Went ahead and ordered it as i had a few other bits I needed so hopefully its up to the task 🤞
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Cheers for your reply Paul! I think if I can't find any F2F courses within a sensible distance soon I may as well sign up to one of these on the basis that it's better than not doing it at all! Is the Arb Association registered for Focus on Forestry First funding do you know? -
I wonder if this is what they meant when they said 'put in a cupboard'? Find it hard to think why you'd just hide it, even tipping it into the kitchen bin would have been more logical and probably stood a better chance of being noticed before it was too late.
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They've put a stop to all the short courses until current restrictions end, they do do tractor driving but I'm looking at April at the earliest so trying to find something sooner. Cheers though
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Is the AA running these outdoors anywhere or have they all been moved online now? As a newcomer to the industry I'm not sure how much I'll be able to pick up through a screen, I really wanted to get in the woods for this not just get the qualification for the sake of it, but I can't find any providers offering outdoors courses anywhere near North wales. Anyone else done the online version and able to offer any feedback?
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I'm using chrome and displaying OK for me on phone and tablet? Long shot but you're not far from me, do you do or do you know of anyone running a C&G or Lantra level 2 tractor driving course + assessment at the moment? I can't find anything in North wales for love nor money!
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I'm another one impressed with the service, the website and stock system is slick and easy to navigate, help and tech questions promptly answered via chat and the small order (~£100) i placed after the next day cut off still got delivered today, barely 24 hours later. Can't see me using anywhere else now, cheers Rob 👍
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Yup that's exactly what's going on here, first time I've seen it too.
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I thought we established in the other thread that's what the saw pod on your leg is for when you go in for petrol/lunch/coffee? Sorry if I'm not keeping up, finding the learning curve on how to look the part quite steep in this industry 🙃
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On a related note what tool do you find best for de-coking ports? I've got a mini Dremel with an assortment of attachments that should fit in there, but I'm a bit worried some of the flap disc and wire wheels might be a bit on the abrasive side, I just want to clean it not make a bungled amateur effort at porting 😂
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Yup just had a cautious clean of the port and it's definitely clear, it comes out of the cylinder at a 90 degree angle rather than central and perpendicular if that makes sense. Bottom 2/3 of the piston looks pretty good too like you say machine marks are visible with no scoring. The bore looks like it might have some very fine score marks on the inlet side that I can see but they're uniform and don't look like plating wearing or anything. Hard to take decent photos using a camera phone through such a tiny port. Interesting call on the Aspen, I don't have any but can get some, or I do have a tin of Seafoam additive I could use a bit of. Never tried it in a 2T motor before though has anyone else?
