Darkslider

I did a long time ago, on a pair of suspension forks for a mountain bike. Think we settled on a partial refund that covered the cost of the parts needed to rebuild them, I ended up losing several hours of my life but got forks with 50% new internals so it worked out ok in the end. Not sure if that will be an option here, as well as a pot and piston it desperately needs a drive sprocket, the muffler and various plastics are cracked or melted, and I'm expecting it has a leaking intake boot or crank seals as it stinks of fuel all the time, even the postie commented he shouldn't have had the box in his van really 😂 so if I try and take off the cost of parts it needs he might end up paying me 🤔

Did they replace oil feed and return pipes and do a flow test with any of them turbos? 9/10 it's an oil supply problem that kills turbos IME, most turbo manufacturers won't entertain a warranty claim on a new unit without a receipt for a feed pipe and oil pressure/flow test results. Could be a completely separate issue to your limp home prob though

To me 'starting brilliant' is a burp on the first or second pull and firing on the third, not ten hard yanks and a shoulder dislocation 😅 I've put in an eBay request for a return anyway so we'll see what comes of it. If the seller is on here hopefully he'll realise he's not being swindled, I just can't stomach paying a well running price for a saw that needs all the same work as a seized non runner.

It's also nails to pull over to get it going, reminds me of trying to start the 1500cc diesel mewp we hired when the electric starter packed in. I guess it doesn't take much of a pickup on the cylinder to make it bind and try to pop your shoulder out 😂 If it's the collective opinion that 'starts and runs brilliant' is far enough off the mark to be taking the P then maybe I'll try returning it, with no bar and chain I haven't run it up to temp yet but it definitely doesn't fit my description of 'starting brilliant'.

If they can swap injectors, which isn't always easy, they'll be able to pinpoint if the fault moves with the injector or stays with the cylinder which will give them something to go off. Have they compression tested the cylinders at all? That would be one of my first steps as one of the basics to rule out. If they've mentioned valve train issues you might have a valve not seating on that cylinder resulting in low compression. Or bad injector can quickly lead to a cracked piston/head too.

Just saws and climbing PPE initially, but sounds like I'm still selling myself short somewhat at that.

I think that's got to be my plan really ! A bit different from the £19 carb kit and it being worth £500 with all the others I had in mind 😂 this just means it's got to be a keeper now I guess which I'm not too upset about. Just annoying as I could have bought a non runner for £100-150, instead I've paid over the odds for something that's going to need all the same jobs doing anyway. Still it'll be a learning experience I suppose 👍

Yep the springing was just the flywheel magnet so good shout by several of you there, at least I know what that feels like now. If I paid £113 I wouldn't be so peeved 🙈 here's the listing which made me think it was worth a gamble on it being a carb issue 2007 STIHL MS200T Tree Surgeon Arborist Top Handle Chainsaw for sale online | eBay WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2007 STIHL MS200T Tree Surgeon Arborist Top Handle... According to eBay the seller doesn't accept returns anyway so looks like I'm stuck with it. 😂

Bought this 200t listed as cutting out at idle occasionally hoping it'd be a carb issue, started and ran but thought I'd check the piston anyway. Wish I hadn't now. 😂 I'm unable to get a compression reading as the angle the plug enters the cylinder means my adaptor contacts the piston on the corner at tdc. With no plug in it pulls over but there's a bit of a snag a few degrees either side of TDC. It feels like it wants to 'spring' into tdc then spring out again if that makes sense. This is with recoil starter and chain brake both removed. When trying to pull it over it feels like trying to start a diesel so I'm guessing it's got good compression on top of this tight spot. Would you put a pot and piston in this? Try a different comp tester and go from there? Or send it back? (Possibly an option) 4th photo is of the cylinder which doesn't look too bad to my eye but prepared to be corrected on this. I don't remember it being so hard to pull over when I first took it out the box a few days ago so I've left it soaking overnight in case I've disturbed some carbon but would appreciate any thoughts in the meantime! Cheers all!

Yup you're quite right, a Brexit/Covid double whammy I think!

Bits arrived for the elderly eBay Echo so got it back together. Original fault was a bash to the exhaust which opened up the casing on the sprocket side, this melted various plastic covers, meaning the chain tension adjuster and the brake band gradually fell out and broke up. By the state of it the saw was used in anger right up till the last minute before it was chucked on eBay 😅 found a few other things to fix on it while I was poking round but seems to be running well and working now, though after a parts bill of nearly £100 I'm pretty sure I'm in negative equity with it now 🙄 Single sided chain brake handle is quite flexy too, needs to be pulled close to the pivot to lock otherwise the handle just bends and doesn't do anything. Not sure if this is just how they are but I'm not spending any more money on it so I'll have to get used to it!

Cheers for the suggestions guys, managed to get the last bit I needed from eBay Italy which got here in a couple of days, rather than nearly a month for the backorder from Japan! I've now got a duplicate sprocket cover for a Cs-350tes if anyone needs one.

Cheers for the recommendation but I've got 38/39 booked in already and I've got enough work to keep me going until April in any case 🤗

Cheers for the comments everyone. Yeah I hadn't thought reduced course numbers might be playing a part too I guess especially with workshop elements involved it's going to be harder to maintain social distancing with packed courses. I'm in North Wales and tree surgery seems a popular choice here, most journeys I take I see a 4x4 towing a chipper somewhere.

Looks like a good operation you've got very jealous! I know you didn't ask for constructive criticism but just tried to watch your firewood seasoning tips vid, I know there's various benefits in making videos 10-15 mins long but I got bored after 5 minutes, maybe try and condense them down a bit and make them shorter and punchier to hold the millennials with weak attention spans such as myself, too many YouTube channels seem to be fluffing out their videos with filler to get the length but I'm sure it must have an adverse effect on viewing time in the long run.

If it makes any of you feel better I'm trying to get onto courses for my climbing tickets at the moment and every training provider you ring is fully booked for months in advance, it seems everyone out of work due to Covid has decided now is the time to realise an ambition to become a tree surgeon so there's likely to be lots of fresh blood bolstering the ranks this year I'd say. I'm planning on getting all my own kit and offering my services to all the local firms and one/two man bands I know, but unsure how to price a days labour given I'm going to be slow and green starting out climbing. I've been using a ground saw for years though and have other skills to bring to the table (driving, towing, machines and mechanics) so I'm hovering around the £90 a day mark at the moment which looks almost too cheap given some of the comments here.

I've used and maintained a few ms170 and 180s, I'd say it's almost certain QC on the bottom of the range models is lacking. They made a big song and dance about how their Chinese factory where the entry level saws are made is to the same quality standard as anywhere else, but that's just not the case in my experience of the little homeowner saws.

I might be misunderstanding or oversimplifying but I thought any wood can form creosote in your chimney if you restrict the airflow too much and your flue temp never gets above 150 Deg C. Keep it nice and hot at 200-250 C and you're not meant to have any problems?

With this post you're responsible for me buying a spares repairs 200t when I really didn't need another project saw. I hope you're pleased with yourself.

This is what I came here to say 😂 If you're lucky it'll be running on sealed bearings and they'll be easy to get at. Whether or not £10-15 on decent bearings and potentially an hour or twos fiddling and testing is economical compared to buying another one depends on how much they are new though.

Terry of Apex Arb in Stafford is meant to be good, lots of utility guys from my neck of the woods recommended him.

Thought as much, I'll make a mental note to make sure all the gear is back on the ground before tempting fate by taking my harness off 👍

Can anyone explain to a (as yet) non climber whats gone on here? Is it at the end of the job and the ropes been pulled the wrong way instead of passing through the big ring first then pulling the lot down to terra firma? Why the scared smileys? The blue/yellow rope hasn't taken any weight like this has it? That would be worrying knowing you're still alive due to some 6mm cord and an inch of plastic ball 😳

I've got the top spec Mityvac pressure/vac pump, found it invaluable for all sorts of problems, just today I had a look at my pickup that's down on power and chucking out black smoke. Plugged the scantool in and it was very slow building boost at low revs so suspected a boost leak but couldn't see anything and it passed the 'spray everything with carb cleaner' test. Put the Mityvac on the wastegate actuator and with 30 PSI on the wastegate arm on the turbo wasn't budging, but the actuator arm was bending under the pressure so I knew the actuator was doing its thing. Liberal dousing with penetrating fluid and taps back and forth with a long bar and it spring open, it had actually stuck in the half open position so most of what the turbo was spinning up was bypassing the engine and going straight out the exhaust. Used the Mityvac to work it in and out for ten minutes and it's like a new truck to drive now! That fix alone was worth the price of the kit I reckon.