Darkslider

Anyone tried the Hyundai silenced jobs FR Jones have? We've got a big 250l Clarke twin in my folks workshop but I want something a bit handier for our new house, problem is while the Clarke is relatively quiet all the little ones I've ever tried have been ridiculously noisy, to the point if I was trying to clean a saw late for work the next day I'd feel bad for the neighbours switching it on! Looks like you pay a bit more for a bit less power if you want a quiet screw drive machine but will 150 l/min be sufficient for cleaning saws and inflating tyres? Could go up to a 50l twin motor available in ebay if not. Hyundai HY7524 direct drive silenced air compressor – FR Jones & Son WWW.FRJONESANDSON.CO.UK

Yup, I've tried various options since moving out of my parents and leaving the compressor behind, absolutely nothing else works. Now any chainsaw maintenance I have to go back to my folks to use the workshop there, a compressor will be one of the first purchases I make when I get my own workshop built in the garden!

The saw doesn't look like it's been cleaned since new and when I took the airbox lid off there was half a forest of compacted mulch in and around the carb/filter, so I'd say all of those are a distinct possibility! The piston in the bottom picture isn't mine, it's Davey Crockett's who posted it a few weeks back in a thread i found when I searched, but the colouration of his piston is almost identical to mine so thought it'd be worth posting up. I haven't stripped the saw any further than removing the muffler and don't fancy taking it to bits completely if I don't absolutely have to 🤣

Dave is another brill company, good reviews and offers everything I need but doesn't accept FFF funding. Looks like I've got it sorted with Phil for March anyhow, doesn't bode well for finding work how booked up every training provider is round here 🤣

Heard good things about Mitch at Arborchase i believe they're in Cannock so not too far from you.

That was my gut feeling to be honest, just wanted a second opinion from the arbtalk massive first! Seems a well put together saw from the tinkering so far though so don't think doing a pot and piston on it would be too bad if necessary down the road.

Echo CS-350tes just bought, popped the muffler off for a peek and disappointed to see a fair amount of blow by through the exhaust port. Piston looks clean as a whistle below the top 1/3rd and no scoring or other signs of seizure/wear. For reference I'd say the piston probably looks similar to the bottom photo by Davey Crockett a couple weeks ago, without the scratches. Saw seems to start and run fine, would you crack on and use it like the cheap saw it is or does it need addressing?

Upping their game somewhat. I've always held Echo in almost the same regard as Husky and Stihl, I wonder how long till we consider them one of the 'big three'?

That's probably a better bet, I imagine it would be a whole new can of worms if a carabiner failed and it was found to have been modified by engraving or stamping. But then a heat shrink label could be hiding cracks or damage too so who knows? You can find fault with anything if you think for long enough 🤣 You're right on the pain in the arse, my last place after an HSE consultant visited attempted to adhere to the PUWER, LOLER and Ladder Association regulations by the book, and it effectively created another full time job role with all the extra admin paperwork and inspections. There's probably a balance to be struck somewhere.

Firms should have a database of all their kit and each piece of equipment should have its own ID number-similar to the PAT testing regime for electrical appliances. While lots of equipment comes with labels some doesn't so places I've worked have used a combination of engraving, stamping or tagging to ensure harder to keep track of bits like carabiners and pulleys etc don't get overlooked. Too easy for smaller items to either never get checked or tossed to the back of the pile when found to be defective, only to be picked up and used by the less observant next guy! There's a few companies that supply various options for equipment tags such as little clamp on bands etc, could be worth some investigation if you could supply and fit them you'd be a one stop shop for LOLER requirements. Note I'm not an expert and have zero qualification to be offering LOLER advice, this is just what I've seen done in previous workplaces.

Keith is the preferred choice and local to me but he's booked up till April so just thought I'd ask the question on here.

Just wondering if there's any training providers in or near the North Wales area with upcoming availability on the above courses? Ideally as soon as possible and registered with FFF. Diolch!

I haven't used an MS200t before so couldn't tell you if it was making all the power that it should, just that it started, revved and idled ok after whereas it wouldn't before. I didn't pick the cheapest one I could if that has any relevance, I think I'd feel more comfortable if it had a genuine carb put on before long though in case the chinky goes out of adjustment.

Cheers there's no rush, playing with chainsaws is important but kids education is importanter! (Case in point here 😄) I may have a few extra bits to add by the time I've gone through the saw properly anyhow 👍

Hi Mark, just dropped you an email regarding Echo spare parts, don't spose you know what the shipping is like at the moment? Are bits for these saws 'overnight parts from japan's or is there a decent amount of uk stock?

Is there any class requirements for boots on a CS38/39 course? Or will class 1 suffice?

Holy thread resurrection etc... looking at my first pair of type C trousers to do Cs38/39 in on a modest budget and these don't look too bad. Husqvarna Technical chainsaw trousers (Type C, Class 1) – FR Jones & Son WWW.FRJONESANDSON.CO.UK Can anyone confirm these are OK to climb in for the money? Type C Oregon Yukon are cheaper but I had a pair of the type As before and the material was no different to a pair of trackie bottoms, super light and comfortable but one nick with the silky and they'd tear right open.

Reasonably priced kit available from Milners if yours is a B40, I'm planning on fitting this to mine with some new leaf springs at some point. Rear Leaf Spring Air Bag Assistance Kit WWW.MILNEROFFROAD.COM A MILNER OFF ROAD MANUFACTURED PART.When leaf springs are under heavy loads the ride may become harsh with...

I've been keeping an eye on FR Jones saws as I had them down as only selling trustworthy kit they could guarantee, used to just be the big names and Mitox as a budget offering (which seems to get good reviews from pro users as backup or lightly used saws). But noticed a few new brands at the bottom of the price range listed on their website now, hyundai, Harry, lawnflite and efco (not echo) to name a few. Have FRJONES sold out and decided to tarnish their rep by peddling chinesium junk? I don't think so, I think its more likely these are Chinese manufacturers that realise if they increase the quality and the price to cover it and still manage to undercut the big boys they can turn a profit and actually knock out a half decent homeowner saw in doing so.

Cheers mate bookmarked! 👍

Thought I'd best update, put a Chinese carb on as a bit of a cheap test and it fixed all the problems, saw now starts, idles and revs as it should, used it to cut some hardwood logs and it didn't miss a beat. It doesn't seem to have much adjustment though so I think a genuine carb is going to be the best option but the Chinese ones are cheap enough to try out to make sure it fixes the problem before splashing out on the real deal.

I might try and get it back in that case to see how far off it is, there was a noticeable bend in the end of the lever back towards the carb which would have had the effect of limiting the fuel needles opening, perhaps in a previous attempt to combat rich running but as I had no way of telling if it was meant to be like that I left it alone.

I think I left it on 2 turns out on the H screw as that was where it seemed happiest, it was running and revving up nicely at that whereas any less and it would cut out if the revs were left to drop. Perhaps I should have given it another 1/4 turn on the L screw too, it seemed to be inconsistent I thought I'd fixed it as it was idling and revving nicely for a period but then it cut out and was a pig to start again so I carried on tweaking. I've had to hand it back as it is and admit defeat as it's needed tomorrow, but i checked the needle seat while the carb was off and I couldn't blow through it while it was held shut by the spring so I don't think that's the reason for it flooding, the 'tang' had a slight bend in it that would have limited how much the float needle could open too would have been interesting to compare that to a new one and see if that's the shape it's meant to be or if it's been modified in the past. Also checked the impulse pipe was still on the airbox, filters and lines clear with no holes, compression was 150 psi after a few pulls-all the normal stuff. It's had plenty of use so a bit of blow by isn't unlikely, when it does run it has loads of power reportedly. I'll try and get some feedback on how it does this week, if it's no good it could be coming your way ?

I've got an MS200t that is behaving very similar, revs need coaxing up and will bog down and die if you just grab a load of throttle. Air filter is full of fuel too. I've fallen at the first hurdle a bit because I wanted to start off by adjusting the mixture screws back to factory settings, but the Stop is missing from the H screw and I've no idea where it's meant to be ( the L was a lot more than one turn off its seat, compensating for whatever the fault is I guess?) And now I can't get it to start at all. Any pointers? I've checked a few other things, fuel filter is clear, no holes in the fuel pickup line, tank vent is clear, I've checked both diaphragms in the carb and no splits in them. Edit: also found it was fitted with an ngk bm6a plug, whereas Stihl and everywhere else I can find recommend the bpmr7a which looks fractionally longer putting the electrode further into the cylinder. I'm always wary fitting a longer plug than the one I've taken out but it still pulls over with it in so I'm going to have another attempt at starting it once it's reassembled to see if there's any difference.

We've got a Chinese (I assume) single poster which has been fine for several years now. Also bought tyre changer and balancer and a transmission jack from the same company and impressed with all the kit, Automotech on eBay if you're interested. They do a 5 ton 2 poster which is what I'd go for in your boots, we only picked a mobile single poster due to serious space constraints!