stewmo
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Everything posted by stewmo
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Here’s one - Says increases the predictability of the pick. And another on this YouTube- Can’t seem to find a presentation on it as such. Maybe I need to dig around the US arb forums?!
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Think Reon Rounds too
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Definitely on instagram - I’ll try to find and post.
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There seems to be some people in the States, like Mark Chisholm, who cut a V - anyone know about this way of doing it?
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What size saw are you using. Just thinking 28’ could be too big for my Husky 576xp...any thoughts? Cheers
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Cool. I’ll check it out [emoji106][emoji106]
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Cheers bud. Good to know someone has done it. I always like to use up what I’ve got rather than buy new stuff. Basically I’ve got a bigger saw now, a 576xp and am wondering about going up to 24’ or 25’. Think with the tip being held in the mill it will also make for more accurate boards as the small log mill does drift at maximum reach. What’s the maximum width of board with your 24’ mill? I’m not too fussed about waney on both edges, I often take a skim and then rotate the log if it’s too wide. It’s rare you need both edges waney I would have thought?!
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25K does seem like pocket change for a company whose turnover and profit is in the millions of pounds....easy enough to be business as usual for them I'd say.
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How do you use a carabiner to add friction?
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Anyone know if it’s possible to extend the small log mill to take a bigger bar or do I need to start all over with a new mill? Thanks in advance
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My understanding is this bloke is something of a legend down under and he has some interesting stuff to say....
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I do it. But I often question why. Not sure what I really gain from it. But I know there are things I would be fine using that a loler inspector would say no to so it’s good to have an independent check on your kit. But I do know people that don’t and some have ropes/harnesses that is 10 years old and still climbing on it. I figure it’s totally up to you mate what you want to do
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Yeah I did use it for a while, perhaps I should have another crack at it. I always forgot how to tie it so if I undid the hitch I had an issue. Whereas the swabish is so easy to remember !
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The thing that’s annoying me at the mo is hitch (swabish) binding up and to me, this seems to be caused when tending slack and the hitch being pulled into the hitch climber itself. I wonder if the ‘legs’ of a VT stops or at least reduces the effects of this as the wraps don’t get that close to the HC. Any thoughts?
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Perhaps having digital copies available will make the hard copies a bit more affordable!
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As often as possible ie almost never?!
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Done the small ones - leg loops not done up, ascending without main line attached to bridge, cutting close to rope only to realise not tied in twice, etc. But biggest one I/we got away with was..... Couple of years back taking a big pine out, rigging out whole branches in one. Half the tree over a lane, the other over the property. Branch just above the one I was rigging out had a tear that I didn't see, and must have been resting on/grown in amongst the lower one. It just looked normal at the time. Anyway rigged out the lower one and the upper one ripped off about 1 metre behind my head and landed right across the lane. I can't imagine how it would have felt if someone had been walking past at that time. Very fortunate.
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At the last show I was at I thought the Ergolite looked pretty good....i think rich rule had one maybe? https://www.honeybros.com/Item/Buckingham_ErgoLite_Harness
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Generally I find the ladder bypasses the hardest part of the tree so they are always on the truck. Also handy for all sorts of random things as Devontwig said crossing the odd river to drop a tree or bridging a hedge or a load of brambles.
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Cheers. Yep get that when in your in the groove thing. Certainly don't get that size of tree regularly here....Do you miss the broadleaves of the UK?
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Nice work as usual. Intersted to know when you went back up why you don't ascend the rope rather than spurring up the tree of such large diameter, would seem easier to me?? Thanks
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We took out a Turkey Oak this week, infected with honey fungus. Can remember how high the fruits were, but certainly above my head.
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I use my 200t on the ground quite often, but only in situations where the risk of kickback is low. For example if I was logging up a pile of sticks on the floor or snedding out I just wouldn't do it. If it did kick back it is certainly more dangerous than a rear handled. May not be more dangerous to be up a tree in those particular situations... As ever sweeping statements just don't cut it in the real world!
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Agree!
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I thought the training in the use of a saw up a tree is not specifically related to top handles. I'm pretty sure when I trained CS39 was titled Use of a Chainsaw from a Rope and Harness. Yes on the course we used top handled saws, but to say you would be fine to use any saw other than a top handle up a tree without the appropriate training is IMO not accurate. Do your training first. There are many things to consider when working at height with any kind of saw. Then what you want is a light versitile and powerful saw - top handled are the easiest to use in tight situations but as stihlmadasever said a small rear handled saws are also fine
