stewmo
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Everything posted by stewmo
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Thanks. I can run through your suggestions. Moving over to a manual choke sounds interesting. It is quite a faff the primer setup. Presumably that would involve a new carb? and yes the filter is definitely due a replacement 😆 but not I think the problem with starting the saw.
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For some reason my 3120 won’t start. It’s a 1989 model. Normally you pump the primer to get fuel to carb as it doesn’t have a choke. was working last time I used it a year ago but can’t get it to pump the fuel through. Could it be an air lock? Wondering if there is a way to get it to fire and pull fuel through ? any thoughts very welcome. cheers
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Thanks yeah, having thought it through some more and what you have all said I think I'm in Muddy42's camp. I have a friend who can lend me the mill to have a play. So go with what I have got and see how I fare. A 42" bar and chain these days is something chronic to be paying out for not much cause.....CHEERS!
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I'm climbing ash every week and I'd have no real concerns climbing that one. Mewp may be easier and quicker but in my view unneccessary for the tree itself.
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The cord is elastic and it pulls up the knee ascender when you are rope walking. Lots of different systems out there....but this has the appeal (at least to me) that it is permanently on the harness and the elastic bit isn't flapping about getting caught on every bit of tree when climbing about.
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hi folks Felled a more or less dead Beech today and the customer would like to mill the stem. It's pretty decent.....nearly 3' at the base and 2' at the top. Access isn't great so it's probably in the balance to use a chainsaw versus someone coming to pick it up take to the mill and then return with the boards. I've only milled smaller stems for fun really with my 576 (ported) and the small log mill. I have a 3120xp and wondering on getting setup with this saw to do this job. Of course would like to use what I have but..... I have 36" and 42" bars for the 3120, but they are hard nose bars. My thoughts are this could be problematic for milling. Should I buy a sprocket nosed bar? Then it will be hmmm 36 or 42" bar..... If yes, then should I stick with .404 so don't have to fiddle about with changing sprockets? Thanks for your time!
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I've got a 40m and a 45m. Can't remember running out of rope.
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Wondering if any of you subbie climbers out there have considered setting up a small business rather than being purely self employed, but still just being a subbie, not actually running a tree service. I’ve been wondering at what point it gets more tax efficient to be setup that way. Any thoughts welcome!
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Easter weekend a good chance for a strip down.....thanks for the tips
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Personal view is you can’t go wrong with some Distel aluminium spikes with Velcro straps top and bottom. very comfy. Had mine 10 years now. Replaced the bottom straps once.
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200t oiler is slightly doing my head in…. One minute oil is running down the bar when hanging off the harness, the next it’s not oiling and the chain is going dry. I changed out the oiler must be a few years back so don’t know if worn out and it needs changing again? Any thoughts chainsaw wizards?
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It’s just so obvious that it would be issue
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Yeah we debated this clutch issue in this thread….18 months ago…. So clutch, drum and bearing all got swopped out then. So not long ago really considering. I don’t believe it’s a lubrication issue. I will check crank for wear.
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Good idea. Going to need a big vise grip!
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Trying to get the drum off the needle bearing and shaft. Absolutely no movement whatsoever. Guess as the bearing has failed spectacularly it has wedged itself between shaft and drum. Any ideas for removal? I’m stumped. Thanks for all the comments
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I’ll check that.
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Husky genuine
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Will have to look back at my service record and see if any correlation
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It’s plastic…..could be wear on drum…..?
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Exactly. Something is causing it. Nothing I am doing is any different from before or with any of my other saws. Brake band is an idea….
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Clutch is fairly new so I think unlikely but you never know
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I get what you are saying. But why now? The saw is years old and never had a problem before.
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My 550xp seems to be chewing through needle bearings. Just had one go today that is only 5 weeks old and some days or even weeks the saw doesn't even get used. The one before that lasted 3 months. When I took the last one off it was almost melted on to the inside of the clutch drum. And today the same sypmtoms......chain spinning on idle and when chain brake applied the saw stalls, presumably because the crank can't turn. So I am assuming when I take this one off it will be same. Once is an oddity but twice....makes me want to know what is going on? Is there a deeper issue here that needs correcting as well? Thoughts welcome!!
