Kevm
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Everything posted by Kevm
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Did you get the plug from here. Spark Plugs, NGK, Denso, Bosch, Champion | The Green Spark Plug Co WWW.GSPARKPLUG.COM Spark Plugs UK Retailer NGK Bosch Champion Denso Bosch, Ignition, Fuel, Auto Electrical Wiring, Battery From Leading Brands. Also Stocking Modern Variants For Vintage & Classic...
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I only ever use "just the tip" saves bending over too much, fnah, fnah!
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I think JB weld is the best of the "plastic metal" glues, used it on loads of things, never had a failure - yet.
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If there is any chance there is water in the fuel use a Mr funnel - yes that's what it's called, amazingly simple bit of kit that works.
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I pulled up some pics of a TS410 but can't see if it has a petrol pumping bulb or not, because my first thought would be it's not getting fuel up/into the carb and takes a while to pump it while you pull it over. Check the bulb is working or give it a squirt of easy start or brake cleaner in the air intake to see if it fires straight away
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It's not like that 350, it seems to be a one piece plastic block with the two plastic adjusters sticking out.
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I have a 2010 346 and adjusted the idle this morn and found it has crap plastic adjusters which have been chewed up by a previous owner. Can I remove that plastic block with the adjusters on and what is underneath? it would be nice if there were real steel adjustment screws underneath?
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To have survived subsea for any time that rod would have to be 316 stainless which (I am guessing) was very rare during wartime and would only be used for something submerged subsea constantly, no point putting stainless components on an aero engine. My guess is it is nothing to do with the aero engine and it probably fell off a small fishing boat - part of a creel winch or something fishing related.
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Starting a Petter PH1 single cylinder Diesel engine
Kevm replied to Baldbloke's topic in General chat
I think you are too trusting. -
Starting a Petter PH1 single cylinder Diesel engine
Kevm replied to Baldbloke's topic in General chat
If it is easy to swing when on compression then maybe it needs a rebore, mine was like that when I got it. Now in cold weather it is hard to get enough speed to get it over TDC. Have you tried the oil in the inlet trick used by the kid in the earlier video. If you are not hearing any noise from the injector could be that at fault, but I would imagine it would be smoky when running if that was the case. -
Starting a Petter PH1 single cylinder Diesel engine
Kevm replied to Baldbloke's topic in General chat
I have a Thwaites orline with the same engine, slightly different throttle setup. Here are a couple of pics of mine, pic 1 the pump is in the stopped position, pic 2 the little swinging block has been lifted up which allows the rack to move an extra 1/2" to the left to give excess fuel for starting, if it's not going into this position you will find it almost impossible to start from cold. As Deafhead says you should hear the injector creaking as it squirts fuel.
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The oil should not be getting "bubbly" if there is a lot of entrapped air in the oil it will cause cavitation in the pump and damage it rapidly. You need to find where/how the air is getting mixed into the oil. It should not require bleeding, any air should get pushed out.
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Is the electric pump running (going up) or can you hear a click when you press down, you need to make sure it is getting power. As mentioned there may be a manual valve you can undo to release the pressure to lower.
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Don't use Hammershite, there are lots of better paints, listen to what Puffinbilly has to say, us Defender owners know about rust.
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A suction filter is usually plastic or metal and if it gets blocked will cause damage to the pump, cavitation. Unless you have been really manky when topping up the oil then it should be ok, but the only way to check is drain all the oil, clean and refill being very careful to keep it clean.
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Removing Stihl Forestry Marker Paint from a Machine
Kevm replied to IronMike's topic in General chat
You could try brake cleaner and if that doesn't work then try some standard paint thinners (the stuff used for cleaning spray guns) but just get some on a rag and give it a rub with that, you obviously need to be careful and if it looks like the original paint is coming off then give up. The original paint should be a fairly tough two pack so should not come off easy. -
Well you either do as paddy says, but you will need to clean off all the old waxoyl before you can put rust converter type stuff on, so probably a pressure wash with detergent, or Just spray it with some lanolin based anti-rust stuff I like fluid film as it always comes out of the tin without blocking the nozzle, just spray it on and get on with other more interesting life things.
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Does the motor actually run when you push the up button, if the motor runs but it doesn't go up then that suggests the hydraulic pump is knacked or some other hydraulic fault, if the motor doesn't even make any sound at all then it is either the switch button in your hand, the solenoid, or the motor. Put a meter or bulb on the motor wires and see if you get any power when you press the button.
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I have planted beech hedging in the past by rotavating first and it's true they get away better then I found that in the second year I had a lot of failures, the reason for that is the moles moved into the rotavated strip and were basically going up and down the hedge undermining the roots, then the voles moved in and nibbled the roots as well. The last bits of hedging I have planted, just made a slot with the spade and shoved them in and had far better success.
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Is there a guard missing off the front of that machine? surely you don't pick stuff up with all those hoses, pump etc. right in the line of fire?
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What about one of these Hozelock Wonderweeder: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Great prices on your favourite Gardening brands, and free delivery on eligible orders. I find it a really handy tool for spot spraying, no drift, or waste
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I have a Yanmar B008 which looks very similar to the Kubota, on mine there is a spare hose underneath the floor which you can connect up to bypass the spool for breaker or other single function use, if you want to operate the pedal as pressure out to A or B then you swap the hose over under the floor so the oil will return from the spool valve - if you use it like that on a breaker or logsplitter it causes too much backpressure and slows everything down. I put in a ball valve on the B (return) line on mine and connected to that straight to filter line under the floor so now if on the logsplitter the ballvalve is open and if on the timber grab the valve is closed. If you have a pedal which will go both ways then surely they will have fitted the pipework under the floor already.
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New project looks interesting - maybe needs a V8. I have a question about your splitter, what age was the Rover as after a certain time most engines have got so much electronics on them that it is difficult to just bolt it into a frame and power up did you have to transfer over an ECU etc?
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Thing is, have you got the "tache" to go with the saw.
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That will weld easy and get them to weld some strengthening ribs on the sides
