Kevm
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Everything posted by Kevm
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Not likely to be a spool, if the handle feels ok then there is not much can go wrong with a spool. Is there a valve block inline between spool and slew rams if so check that. Maybe a relief valve playing up with worn or damaged seals, not likely the pump as it's probably a gear pump and they generally work fine till they are too worn to lift a full load. Would be worth changing the oil though, fresh oil will give you a bit more power and you can check the old oil for metal particles.
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We have to wear that sort for offshore now, they give you more ankle support and if you have an accident they can be unzipped and come off easier, also quite waterproof. The downside is they are a bit heavier. make sure you get a pair with good arch support - the pair I have now make my feet ache after a while.
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I use something similar on a smaller and much slower scale to cut up ex - building timber, pallets etc. Those blocks he is splitting look so perfect I thought they were rounds of plastic when I first saw them all lined up.
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Thanks, Dean and Matt. Got to be worth doing, I had to open up a tail light yesterday morn, ok it only took a minute to give the contact a scrape with the screwdriver and pop the bulb back in but it's a ruddy pest not knowing if it's going to continue working. Regards, Kev
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So if I just change the tail lights on my Ifor for LED ones, will they work ok with the original marker lights and number plate light being as they are on the same circuit. I can find LED marker lights but I can't find them for the numberplate and I would rather just change the lot. Kev.
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I need one for mine as well but looking at this one on ebay item # 351079227531 It just looks like a bit of slightly bent alloy angle so I will just make one, easy to judge the sizes from those pics. Kev
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I think you will find that Craobh is a place about 20miles south of Oban in the highlands of Scotland, I don't think any Americans posted on this thread. Kev
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<p>Alec,</p>
<p>I found an old message on the aspen threads where you mention running an allen scythe on Aspen, is it a mk25c engine (two stroke) and is it still running fine?</p>
<p>I have one and have always used the same mix fuel for it and the saws (33:1) but not sure about going to the 50:1 mix of aspen.</p>
<p>Thanks, Kev</p>
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The major was about 50hp at 2400rpm and if it needs 65kw that's almost 90hp and the pumps should spin at 3000rpm. So you can see why the old major engine struggled. You need a decent size tractor on that really. But if you wanted to make a powerpack for it I would speak to flowfit - Flowfit the leading worldwide suppliers of hydraulic components If you get all the numbers off the pumps they should be able to tell you what size engine you need, bellhousing, coupling etc.
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Well the easiest is an old small tractor, but if you wanted to make a pto power pack then how about something like an old car or van rear wheel drive engine and box, needs to be diesel with simple electrics, mount it on a trolley you can push about, weld a pto spline onto the gearbox output shaft and have a couple of arms to secure it to the processor, stick it in the gear that will give you 540rpm and away you go
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I looked up the specs of the Palax 35 it needs 35lpm the jcb beaver only produces 20 but they make a multiflow one that produce up to 40lpm, so it may be possible to connect straight in to the palax with that but then you would need to isolate the pto pump and tank and have all the oil coming and going back to the powerpack, then would the power pack have a big enough tank to allow for the displacement of the cylinders? It gets complicated and expensive it it doesn't work. Kev
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You really should have it going straight back to tank without too much in the way of restrictions - too much backpressure and you will blow the shaft seal. I would be very wary of putting it through a spool in case someone pulled the handle by mistake.
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Its a case drain so any leakage past the pistons comes out there and should go straight back to tank. take the fittings out and have a look inside the ports to see how clean they are - I hate to see open pipes for all sorts of stuff to get in. That angled piston motor should produce plenty of torque if it is good, if you get it connected up and can rig some sort of load on the drum then see how much oil is coming out of the drain, more than a couple of litres a min means the motor is worn out.
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Steve, You've put some fairly heavyweight steel into that, I am guessing when you want to shift it you chuck a sling around it and lift it with the Mog crane. Does this mean I have to buy a Mog before the logsplitter.
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Give Flowfit a call they will tell you (and sell you) what pump to fit.
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A quick rough calculation is pressure in bars x flow in litres divided by 600 that gives you power needed in Kw so to convert that to HP multiply by 1.341. If you need the power pack for a logsplitter best to use a dual stage pump which will give you fast cylinder travel speed and high pressure/power
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I guess you mean it's slow with a power pack, but I would have thought with at least 12hp and a two stage pump you could get a decent speed.
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My first thought when I saw that link was "someones nicked your trailer!" Good looking setup though.
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When you say variable height axe do you mean a four way splitter that can be moved up and down to suit the size of log, can it also drop right down to then only split once? I quite fancy doing something similar myself.
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16gals = 72litres thats going to stroke in about 2 secs, watch your fingers! What pressure/flow does the HP pump do?
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Of those 13 horses I reckon you don't want to use more than about 10 of them or you are going to kill the engine, so that would give you about 25 litres per min @ 210bar, with a cylinder of about 80mm bore and 500mm long it should stroke out in about 6secs and give about 10.5 tons force. There are plenty of hyd. calculators online I have used Hydraulic Calculations | Hydraulics Online and Hydraulic Cylinder Calculator Online And for pumps and valves etc if you are buying new then I think Flowfit are hard to beat. Flowfit the leading worldwide suppliers of hydraulic components I am looking at buying or making one myself at the moment so have been looking at loads of different designs and can't decide whether to make it horizontal or vertical.
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Spud, My old mechanical tacho only goes to 12000 anyway and it probably would have been a bit dodgy trying to hold it on at full revs! Anyway you have answered my question of how it's done, I never knew those little induction pickup tachos existed till today. I am in Aberdeenshire so a bit too far for your services, thanks anyway. Kev
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Those fast-tachs are about £70, I think I will use the mechanical one I already have. What I am not sure about though is if it will "rev out" more without the chain.
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The clutch hasn't been apart, so is there any reason why I can't just stick the tacho on the end of the shaft? Kev
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How do you physically check a saws RPM, I can't see how you could do it with the chain on and without the chain do you get a true reading. I have a "new to me" husky 262 and want to set it up better, in the manual it says don't run the saw without the bar, chain and brake cover as the clutch can come loose. I can't really see why it would come loose. I have a old fashioned mechanical tachometer with a rubber nose I can hold against the centre of the clutch, is that ok? Kev
