cornish wood burner

I would drop it back in their lap. If they took on the job then they should do it properly. Whether heat treated or not I would expect the drawbar to be a highish strength steel of some kind so welding would cause a weak point at best. As a matter of interest was the broken weld normal steel grey or silver stainless colour? High strength welds normally are the latter due to the more exotic metals in them. If I had taken on that job I would have needed to know what you were pulling, the terrain it was to be used on and the drawbar vertical weight. Did they know or ask this?

If you are referring to a drawbar jaw then it will almost certainly be heat treated so very dangerous to weld this

I have always worked on a design strength of 5 tons/ sq inch for normal welding. Exceed this figure at your peril. There are high strength rods which should be used if required but much more expensive.

Work's ms181 and my 211 certainly have adjustment. Both needed a slight tweak after bedding in but start very well. Presumably you are using this technique Pull with choke on until it coughs Choke off then they normally start next pull. Blip throttle to return to normal tick over speed. Both saws have needed nothing apart from chains. Might soon be time for plugs but they are running perfectly. Good little saws imo Presumably the air filter is clean ? Do you clean around the fillers before refilling?

Best wishes Sean. Get well soon

Makes it unnecessarily hard if you have to take them out though.

Se7endevil's 1/3. 2/3 is a good rule of thumb that we would normally use. It might also be prudent to consider the following and modify your choice if necessary. Thickness of what you are nailing into The strength you need to securing whatever you are fixing. Wood you are nailing into. ie hard or soft, good or poor condition. Will you ever need to remove the nails. Nail type Ring or plain. Rough or smooth. When we secure polythene tunnel sheets we consider all the above. It even makes a difference what part of the tunnel you are securing

Neither can JC so thats not a deal breaker

I use 10 deg as a minimum temp for feeding although wheatgerm is allegedly digestable lower than this. I normally start to feed if the fish are looking for food providing the temperature is high enough. Fish are at their weakest at the end of the winter and are therefore more susceptabe to disease, parasites etc. My policy is to feed as soon as possible to boost their strength, small amount at first miss a few days then feed again. Digestive systems and beneficial bacteria growth are slow at low temperatures so do not overfeed. The bacteria feed on the fish waste so the cycle starts and builds with time. However I suspect that given your cooler temperatures, the size of your pond and fish they will not be looking for any supplementary food for quite a while yet.

It will get too hot and warp timber like you wouldn't believe. We get this in glasshouses as well.

I've heard the same especially with goldfish. Had to extract a frog from a koi's mouth/ throat once. Must have been just too big to swallow. Frog was still alive, took a deep breath and hopped away after a few minutes.

3 phase motors are normally cheaper,smaller and cheaper to run than their single phase equivalents.

Sorry you did say that. Got my glasses now. Similar rubbish material as mine was then, tough luck.

Had that on a £69 Chinese saw making bar length cuts (20 inch). I had to adjust at every tank refill. Chain was well worn everywhere so obviously soft material. Never had a problem on my husky and sthil saws. Wonder if your chain missed a hardening process or something

If the chain is made from softer material as the cheap ones probably are then you could have had wear on the pins and in the holes. Seems like stretching but could easily be wear. Of course lack of oil would have the same result.

What moisture content. Can you give us a rough idea of percentage of dust, 1 to 6, 6 to say 20mm Transport cost may be high but it sounds like we could use it. We are near Plymouth, artic walking floor or bulk tipper loads would be welcome.

Pipe from an exhaust down the hole worked for us years ago. Older and dirtier the engine the better. Might pay to move the chickens while you do it though.

You might need to build/find a platform in advance to give yourself more height. 2.5 tonne doesn't have much reach/height. If that is not possible it probably would pay to have a telehandler from a local farmer lined up if you can find one. Biggest risk to the stems we found was movement when travelling.

Hi Luke It sounds a good idea presumable aimed at the firewood market if I understand correctly. However if my local area and producers are representative then most sell by truck load. I think you might be up against it trying to get these guys included. The ones I know are all well thought of by their customers and therefore do many repeat orders. I see no incentive for them or their customers to get involved. Only complaint I have heard was from someone who bought a dumpy bag load. I think your biggest problem is the huge variety of ways logs are sold by quantity. Transit tipper, hilux, truck with a purpose built body and the variety of big bags including old builders bags. I don't know the answer for you but this might be a big part of your problem. I don't suppose many customers would measure the delivery truck and calculate volume although it might make for an interesting encounter with the seller. Good luck with it though.

Tie them to the dipper arm them carry them with the mini digger or is it too small? Obviously depends how mini it is. We have moved several trees like this but with a wheeled digger or small swinger

Had a spark go through my goggles air vent and weld its self to my eye, could see it but not shift it. Trip to the eye infirmary which was not a pleasant experience. My sympathy Stubby, seems unfair to be caught when asleep. Hope it heals soon. PS don't ever get cellulose thinners or paint in your eye, smarts like you wouldn't believe.

Probably the worse thing appart from falling in the river is the internal stresses caused by impact. Heating might help this but at what temperature and time? Aluminium alloys and heat treatment of, is a very complex subject and the composition would make a big difference. If heating in the 280 to 450 deg C range cooling speed definitely can matter. Aluminium alloys can be treated/aged at 200 deg for several hours then cooled but as far as I know unless it is a very thin section then cooling rate is unimportant from this temperature. However the best thing is if you are concerned about the tension then cool slowly, either way then there will be no problem. Using an oven for heat rather than a blowtorch obviously results in even heating eliminating local overheating and heat stress so is a very good idea but probably best to keep at or below 200 deg to be safe.

In view of the temperatures and times involved it is highly unlikely to be a problem or make any difference. Strength of some aluminium alloys is improved by prolonged heat treatment (several hours) then rapid quenching.

Only seen results of a Sprinter remap. Performance was very impressive. No experience of this but allegedly mpg can improve. However I suspect if you made full use of the performance then you might see a drop in mpg, as I believe was the case with the Sprinter. Figures should be available from the remap co.