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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. I wonder if that's their policy or you are just unlucky with the office you deal with. I know of at least one single load offer and a few others who have gone to them so out of interest I will enquire how they got on.
  2. Could even be a combination of a few faults, one drive motor or valve could be leaking /passing a bit but a new pump with more flow and pressure would overcome the other problem. Might be better to save your money for a new motor etc if this is the case. Just a thought
  3. Had some 44 to 60inch 12 ft long delivered and lifted by crane so between two and three tons. I would think most timber lorries would lift that. I buy a few thousand tons a year and find its hassle free. You just have to find the right supplier. If you can find a cutter on here to supply you then probably the cheapest. Alternatively if all else fails contact Euro forest, I would think they would help you out as they have many contacts and will organise the whole thing.
  4. We have the same starting problem. Two of us have listened and would say that sometimes no audible cough. I think we might have to count number of pulls for best results. Changed plug, good spark, do not use decompressor, like it from new. When it runs cuts fine but it can wear you out before it starts.
  5. No good running if you are going in the wrong direction
  6. Always the way, sods law. Best to pretend to look for forklifts then you will find a good digger cheap. Good luck with it
  7. Why bobcat. Just because a bobcat would not be safe that's no reason to give up on your plan. You could look for a wide wheel base rough terrain forklift. Should be more maneuverable than a 35 and safer than a bobcat.
  8. You are obviously dealing with the wrong contractors. Do it all the time and get charged by the hour, plus traveling time of course. I hour today saved us a couple of man days work. They will often fit you in if they finish a job midday.
  9. Not familiar with the machine but has it a fuel cut off solenoid ? If so have you checked it has power to it and does it work?
  10. This one is for a friend of mine who asked my advice. He's limited on garage size and a smaller tractor would also be easier to transport if needing repair etc. He was thinking Siromer as a dealer is close but gears and no live PTO so not ideal. I grew up with tractors but the compacts are new to me, hence the post. It sounds like the small ones are best with hydrostatic as single clutch. Iveco I like the sound of the Yanmar, when my ride on mower expires I might look at one as I have the same requirements. Thanks to all for the info much appreciated.
  11. I emptied most of my machines before the winter and flushed with aspen. Some seem to run OK but a couple seem they might need a retune before working for their living. Storing wet seems to make sense even if you revert to mixed fuel when used in anger. Alternatively retune to aspen and forget.
  12. As you know 4 wheel steer makes it very maneuverable. Good choice I would say.
  13. No live drive. Put the clutch down to stop forward motion keep it in gear and the PTO still runs. Dual clutch or independent PTO would be what is required presumably.
  14. You can soon get into trouble across a slope. Presumably you want to stack in which case any lifting will move the centre of gravity further down the slope towards the lower wheel 100mm for every metre lift. (already off centre before you start) Add to that a narrow machine, extra weight compressing the lower wheel which then moves the c.o.g further and even worse skid steer then easy to flip it over. Use a plumb bob from however high you want to go with the wheel base marked below and you will see how safe it looks. We have a telehandler with a 3 ton lift so fairly wide and if you lift high across a slope it doesn't feel good. Single stack and keep low should just about be OK but skid steer is the last thing I would want on a slope, they frighten the life out of me, no other options possible like a small telehandler?
  15. To save me some time with tractor specs can anyone tell me of a small compact that has dual clutch/live PTO. Requirements are, ideally around 5 k. 15 to 20 HP, main duty, grass cutting but it would be used for other light field tasks so link arms would be usefull. Physically smaller and lighter than a 35/135 please. Cheers
  16. Hi NFG I bought the 365 for work because it was good value for money for what we needed and I totally agree it cuts very well. Hi OP My advice would be to handle or even better try as many of the saws that have been recommended as you can. Enjoy your saw hunting /using.
  17. Love them too if you could just run them down to East Cornwall, might be a tad far though. Good luck with it.
  18. I would agree for speed and power. Certainly if you are cutting for a living then speed and longevity are very important. At work we do most of our cutting with a 365 and it gets the job done. However I have a 450e that I cut my firewood with and it is a pleasure to use compared to the 365. I know the 450 is not a pro saw but it starts easier and quicker, its smoother with around 1/2 the vibration, much lighter, nicer to handle. Maybe we have a bad 365 and I am sure that 95% on here will slate the 450 as not being fast enough, but it will run an 18inch bar and as I am cutting in my leisure time rather than work time, I prefer the smaller saw even if it takes me a bit longer. No doubt it won't last as long but pleasure rather than pain is how I would compare the two. This is just my take on cutting firewood as a homeowner, I make my living doing other things.
  19. Hope for all us old guys then. Just been watching a pigeon at our bird feeder. It finds it difficult to land and eat on the swinging feeder, so it lands on edge of the bottom plate, scratches some seed off onto the ground then flies down and eats it. Obviously pigeons are not so daft as you might think.
  20. Just use water. A decent pressure washer should clean decking/ patio slabs fine. That's all I use on my slabs, decking and brick paving.
  21. Hi Typhke Sorry missed the clue (380/400)and never read where you were. Long day If not been said already welcome to the forum.
  22. Going to get worse as recycling depots charge for rubble and other things.
  23. I would always recommend a 3 phase cable with flexible braided armour. Big risk of mechanical damage especially over a long length. Remember you have 415 between conductors so increased risk of a short between them. Quite expensive though. Biggest volt drop I have found is the power companies cable. I did a check on a house supply and the voltage fell through the floor when the cooker was turned on. They work on a very wide tolerance so can put in a smaller cable. If you run a motor on an extension lead all these volt drops can add up and kill your motor. Industrial 3 phase is normally a bit better in my experience.
  24. Sounds like a good idea, you might even be able to run the pump a little faster as no doubt you have planed to do. My wood shed has electric so I do everything under cover now. I used to split outside with a maul but now I bring the wood to the shed after a suitable dry spell normally mid summer. I split cut some and store the rest in lengths or large pieces , then deal with it inside when I have time.
  25. Very good point about the extension lead Fib. If you use a long lead voltage drops at the end of if, the motor then draws more current and increases the chance of failure. Any big motor needs as short and as heavy a lead as possible. I use a 2.5mm lead for my pressure washer, saw and splitter etc. I have plans to wire a socket in the ring main to run the splitter and saw which will be the better solution.

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