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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. Be aware that if the worst happens and you can't stop the machine because you have bypassed the emergency stop buttons then YOU will be in real trouble. The vulture lawyers would get very fat indeed.
  2. Centre of gravity being above the line of the tow ball will definitely push down on the ball under braking. Maximum nose weight is specified by vehicle manufacturer in the vehicle specs I have read.
  3. If you haven't a spare heavy circuit in your fuse box then I would go back to the battery. Start with an inline fuse, take a heavy wire to one of the switched terminals of a relay then on to your lights from the other switched one. Just use your control switch to energise the relay coil.
  4. Biggest issue you will have is the voltage will fall through the floor for the above reason when you strike an arc. We did run a small oxford 110A on a lister startamatic generator for many years without damage to either, however almost certainly the lister had a bigger flywheel than your set which helped it over the initial dip. Also back then the alternator etc would have almost certainly been built to a more robust spec. I wouldn't be unduly worried about the Bantam as it's basically just a transformer so fairly robust, BUT its power requirement is very close to your generators max output so at worse you could damage the genset and at best it will not be easy to use.
  5. We put some jobs out to tender on the government contract finder. Seems to work well for both parties with built in safe guards. £10k is the lower limit.
  6. Air drying in the round is an option especially if you have a windy site. A couple of months ago we chipped a batch that was mainly 20%mc. That was exceptional but quite achievable in the summer/ autumn with smaller wood. Lay two poles for bearers and build your stack on them so the wind blows through. You would need to avoid any twigs, leaves or pine needles as all will ruin your chip. If you are chipping G30 (which is your most likely market) then I would think keep your wood well above 30mm diameter. Providing you have enough wood available to make it worthwhile then I would suggest you hire a chipper and chip straight into a shed when your wood is dry. If you have this option then selling to small users could make you some money.
  7. Best sample we have had is from a Musmax. Even with an 80 mm screen it still produces a very good chip with very little in the 100mm plus range. Even slabwood chip is quite acceptable. They have obviously produced a good system that doesn't seem to need a tight screen.
  8. First find your market. Price chipping and transport. Boilers take a variety of chip size. G30 is the normal one used in small boilers. We can use G50 or G100. You can see the sizes that means by looking up chip specs. By a lot of softwood you need to be talking more than 100 tonnes to make it worth while. Chipper traveling and set up needs to be paid for. It costs us just under £20 a cube or £70 / tonne to produce our chip. That includes buying the wood. Chipping is under £10/ tonne using a 600 to 800 mm capacity chipper. If you have the wood it will cost you circa £15 / tonne to chip providing you hire a reasonable chipper and operator. Assuming you have enough to justify his visit. Don't be tempted to get a small chipper just because your wood is small. Big is much cheaper. You mention sawdust several times, forget this, boilers and buyers will not accept sawdust. Moisture content for biomass will need to be between 20 and 35% for most boilers
  9. Avoid sharp 90 deg fittings, use long radius instead if you have the room. Any sharp changes in direction or section will increase pressure loss generating heat. It's worth paying a bit more for the right fittings.
  10. Depends on the length of your pipes and oil viscosity. If for 1/2 say you have a pressure loss of 1.5 psi per ft then assuming a 10 ft length you will lose 15 psi or so. Remember to add the return length also. If you are happy with that then 1/2 will be cheaper and easier to handle. Pressure drop on a 3/4 pipe is a lot less with less heating of the oil.
  11. Polyurethane glue sticks most things and is suitable for exterior work. Never tried it on carpet though.
  12. Definitely go petrol. 12v would take too much current to get any decent power/ speed. You would need a truck full of batteries.
  13. Try in line filters. They seem to do most things and very helpful for oddball stuff. Near liskeard Cornwall.
  14. Brickettes will be burnt more for effect than practicality and cost saving imo. Used mainly by the ones that still use their central heating as their normal heat source. As said small volume sales.
  15. Our 365 floods when stood.Has done this from new but the dealer didn't find the problem.
  16. How do you propose to straighten the chassis after doing that with a load on?
  17. Definitely not in a modern petrol car. The diesel would have a good chance of ruining the cat. Any not cat engine is what you need to use in small percentages. As TCD says not for heating either.
  18. We don't sell logs but dry a bit of wood for chipping and I've found that slabwood can get down to about 18% some small round about 20% This is when kept for 18 months on a windy site and the wind can blow through the stacks. If stacks are too close then the air flow suffers and the drying is poor. We chipped some soft round wood about 6 weeks ago after a dry spell and the mc was 22 to 30% That was outside to inside stacks with no cover. In a shed I would expect nearer the lower figure providing it had good air flow. Depends on the season and weather of course. My question would be is your meter accurate. 600 mm diameter wood will take more than a year to dry to 25%
  19. Sounds like something has changed. Either you are using wetter wood or the air flow has been changed or blocked by something. You say your wood is dry so chances are you have a blockage. Presumably you did your own service. Have you a check list or a service schedule. Might pay to read through any info you have on servicing and see if you missed something. Things like the fan needs to be accessed for cleaning. Could have clogged with debris. When you cleaned the heat exchanger tubes did you clean the air intake passages as well? Could be blocked with tar perhaps. We spend several days servicing our boilers, removing and cleaning fans, checking, safety systems, electrical connections, cleaning tubes, air ways and many other bits and pieces.
  20. Sorry I was referring to a cube of logs being 500 kg ish Chip price is low because the bought in price for chipwood is about 60% of hard wood price. Chipping cost and on site transport is about £10/ tonne which I guess is cheaper than processing and transporting logs. After the initial purchase, drying weight loss, chipping and transport, on average chip costs us about £70/ tonne in the shed.
  21. Ltr of oil contains almost 11 kWh so at 40p/ ltr that's about 4p / kWh Cube of wood weighing 500 kg at £100/ cube is 20p/ kg Kg of wood contains 4 kWh so 5p / kWh If wood was £80/ cube then it's 4p / kWh same as the oil. No calculator and not checked this btw Our chip cost is just under 2 p/ kWh
  22. Different woods require slightly different settings. My boilers adjust most of the secondary settings automatically to hold the excess O2 within tight limits. It might be your primary air is driving off too much volatile gas for the secondary to burn. I would try increasing the secondary relative to the primary as a first step. Mark present setting before you adjust so you can go back if necessary.
  23. Just when you have worn your bar out you will need to order a new one, and as your saw will not be listed on most bar suppliers books they will not know which one to send you. Chances are it will be interchangeable with say a husky 450
  24. That sounds absolutely right. A good hot burn brought about by a good flue, a laddomatt to keep the return temp up and a buffer tank to keep it running hard. Perfect.

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