Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

cornish wood burner

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    1,500
  • Joined

Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. This is true and I'm sure the H&S people would say the same. I would always do what they say because they always live in the real world and are very intelligent. BUT the reason 9 inch are rated at a lower speed is because of the increased forces that come with the increased rotating mass and to a lesser extent increased forces/ leverage on the shaft. If anything I suspect the last 4.5 inch of a 9 inch disc is built stronger than a proper 4.5 inch one. Never had a problem myself doing this in 45 years.
  2. No it would just cancel out the start circuit then the run winding would drive the motor either way
  3. Centrifugal switch open circuit then the start circuit won't function.
  4. It gives the motor it's direction by changing the timing of the voltage in the start winding relative to the run winding. No start circuit and it's 50/50 which direction the motor runs.
  5. Could be a few things. There is normally a centrifugal switch or possibly a timer that switches the start windings out when the motor has run up to speed. Could be this or the start windings or anything in this circuit including the capacitor of course.
  6. Maybe the mouse that spins the motor to give it its direction has gone on strike because it's too wet and cold. Keep it dry and warm next time and it should be more cooperative.
  7. Twins on our van seem to have more grip than the one with singles even on the road, certainly more stable, cost more to run, best to keep the tyres even, otherwise accelerated wear results. Stones could get jammed between twins. You could limp home in the event of a puncture although not recommended. Difficult choice.
  8. I bow to your superior knowledge and eye slight sir.
  9. Remington 1100 5 shot auto with a sleet barrel is better. Bit more collateral damage to the surroundings perhaps.
  10. I did make a roll over bar for a single seater out of thick walled round tube. However it was braced diagonally, triangulated forward and formed part of the chassis. In effect a compete-survival cage. Your problem will be not enough mounting points to brace it sufficiently so you will need to up the strength. As stock says box is much stronger than round. Brace diagonally with good gussets everywhere. The inertia of 700 kg will put much more strain on it than you would believe so build it stronger than you think necessary.
  11. I'm surprised about that as the aero guys I came across were normally top of the tree. Now if it was Plymouth then I would expect that. There used to be a lot of "come along mate I'll get you a job here" I don't think I need to tell you where the dead wood came from but they were all from the engineering side of a MOD service. Maybe the same at other facilities as well then.
  12. We have installed led lights in some of our glasshouses so I expect several 400 W SON T lamps will become available.
  13. If you have copper or brass in your system use a glycol based antifreeze which degrades over time so should be changed every two or three years. Otherwise best to use the long life organic acid technology antifreeze which does not degrade. Do not mix the two types. Bear in mind that if you keep pulling hoses off unnecessarily you will decrease the reliability of your system.
  14. I would have thought it depends on what size you are cutting and how you stack. I too cut wood for my own use. The bigger wood I cut on the ground, but for the smaller diameter I can lift, I have made a log holder that hangs off the side of my trailer. I'm not sure if it's any quicker, but it's certainly easier and safer.
  15. I've found over the years that it's best to give new bearings a shot of grease before use. Bearing races are lubricated internally on assembly, but a pump before use fills the grease way in the housing with grease, rather than allow debris to block it. You can then grease at the specified intervals with some certainty that the grease will actually get to the bearings.
  16. Why not add more concentrated antifreeze. Temperature protection is a function of antifreeze to water percentage. Be carefully to add the same colour though otherwise you can get precipitation.(sludge)
  17. The count is 19 here. Burning ash, oak and hazel but also some big diameter spruce that has holes from wood wasp nests in the centre. Possibly the wasps had used some of their holes.
  18. We have an Albutt log grab on our telehandler and it's done us ok. Only problem is the chrome on the rams is not wonderful. Best keep the rams retracted when not in use for any length of time. Seems better to unplug the pipes when cold if you can, to avoid the temperature change pressure issue. Bleed the system with engine off ignition on and push buttons or levers first of course.
  19. I'm surprised the factory didn't even go further than just matching. A light skim would have made it perfect. Having the bore out of line with the crank can't be good.
  20. Alec I didnt realise I had a clone out there. Couple of years ago I picked up an Eterna Kontiki complete with box paperwork etc. Absolutely no signs of being worn. Very well engineered watch and apparently Eterna were the first to use ball bearing on their rotors hence the logo. Rolex quality at a fraction of new cost and made in the 90s so a decent crystal. Something along those lines might suit the op.
  21. You could consider secondhand if you fancy a reasonable quality mechanical movement. I tend to ask in watch shops as they often give them a check over so less of a risk. Be warned though the collecting bug can get expensive. I normally wear a throwaway quartz for work (or use my phone at present ) and one of my better ones other times.
  22. Just to be clear this will not be the main relief valve which I believe you have already checked. You haven't mentioned checking it so I will explain the theory behind the suggestion. The fault remained even when you put the original valve back so it is likely the fault is caused by something you have disturbed with the work. Likely either a wire / connection or a piece of debris such as a seal fragment. The debris could have lodged somewhere, such as in a small pilot hole driving a shuttle or relief valve, possibly under the relief valve seat or preventing its movement in some way. You said the tracks turn on slow speed when jacked up but not under load so the oil is getting there but not with any pressure. The larger flow would overcome the leakage through the open relief valve and generate sufficient pressure in the tracking circuit to run the tracks. If this machine came into my workshop I too would check pressures and feed things direct but this is a suggestion to work with what you have.
  23. Assuming you have a dedicated relief valve in the tracking circuit it might be worth checking that is not jammed partially open by a piece of debris.
  24. Bad connection, broken wire, faulty or out of adjustment sensor. Don't be hasty about getting a new box.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.