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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. Might be some mileage in making a light loop that slides on the handle, (possibly locked with a thumb screw) which would hold the hook presented to the log when needed. The hook could then be pushed into the log by the handle and with a sharp point could work much better. Mine is not here at the moment so difficult to work out what's needed but I agree they are very poor compared to a dedicated cant hook.
  2. Manufacturers don't seem to make hooks sharp anymore. Many years ago my old man had a cant hook with a wooden handle that he used to roll oak logs up to 3 ft diameter on to a saw bench. It had a point like a needle and would bite in without any help. Shape and point angle probably very important too, possibly a lost art now?
  3. Check out the Nilfisk E 145.3-10 at clean store for £220
  4. Whatever make you go for the extra cost of an on board hose reel is well worth it.
  5. Running with only a 50 deg flue temp is a recipe for incomplete combustion and tar production surely. I would have thought your flue stat should be set well above that.
  6. I think his point was if you do an activity with a certain risk per day then over a 1000 days all things being equal the total risk is 1000 times greater . The incident could occur on the first, last day or not at all, but the total risk remains the same.
  7. That's what I was thinking last night after my post, too much hysteresis as you say, controlling it that way. I had a dig this morning and (fairly sure again)I did get that wrong. I found an ESBE LTC load unit that uses or can use a flue stat to drive the pump. I think their idea is to turn the pump off when the fire goes out so the fire doesn't then act like a radiator and drain the heat from the store. There is still a thermostatic valve in the system to control water temp which makes more sense.
  8. Fairly sure the 3 port valve would just be driven by the flue stat instead of the pipe stat. A system more "in touch"with the fire perhaps.
  9. Your plumbers idea is to keep the flue temperature up which equates to good combustion. Just a different system of achieving the required result.
  10. Might pay to check your filter is seating correctly and not drawing in air. If you have square seals then check one is not twisted. Presumably you have remembered to fully turn on your tank tap if you needed to turn it off.
  11. That would be my approach if possible before spending a lot of money on a valve. Perhaps the crack has internally bridged between circuits or the welding has distorted the body enabling oil to bypass a seal/ valve.
  12. Could you bypass the offending valve and divert the oil directly to the track circuit?
  13. I was thinking of an internal leak or oil short circuit. Sounds like it is connected to the replacement valve or the installation of it.
  14. Could be a leakage rather than a blockage. If you had a leakage in your slow speed circuit then the extra oil in fast mode would overcome the leakage enough to move the tracks but the power would be down. Might be useful to check pressures at various points.
  15. I would definitely consider making a road down over your bank. I presume you have access through your garden so then you can use whatever machines you want and as a bonus improve pedestrian access. Bigger is better but even a small 360 would soon be down over your bank.
  16. It would help to know exactly what access you do have? Worst case it sounds like you might need to crane a digger or whatever over your house. Using a walk behind muncher then a rotavator might be worth considering.
  17. If there is nylon, plastic or rubber involved then Silicone grease is good.
  18. As far as I understand it's the oxidation of the fatty acids in the wood. Fresh pellets could be more of a risk apparently, but either way it's something to be aware of in confined, poorly vented areas. About 5 years ago this problem was mentioned by one of the engineers installing a wood chip boiler for us. He was also involved in pellet systems and said there had previously been fatalities /near misses in pellet storage facilities. Theoretically I believe this could also apply to chip hoppers, so if a problem ever did occur in one, then no doubt HSE will warn us after the event.
  19. Thats been a known problem for many years. HSE are always way behind the times. It seems they always react after the event and don't think about giving a warning before. Perhaps think is not in their remit.
  20. If you read my post I did say "same amount of heat/kg of logs". Just because you can overfire your wood burner it doesn't mean all will. To give the same output to the room a stove with a back boiler will need to burn its fuel much quicker as the energy is shared between the water and room. Im sure you know to achieve correct running a certain temperature needs to be achieved.
  21. Same amount of heat/ kg of logs but because they burn quicker the stoves output can be higher. Certainly works in my stoves.
  22. If you are in any doubt a 4 pin automotive relay diagram will give you the connection info you need.
  23. Higher speed rated tyres are specified for high performance vehicles as they not only produce high acceleration and braking forces but also can corner at far higher speeds as part of the performance package. This can put a lot more energy/ heat into a tyre especially cornering approaching 1g through a series of bends or on a track. Same principle still applies to pickups etc, although the g forces will be less, the tyre still needs to match the vehicles performance. Tyres with a high speed rating are built to a very different spec, compared to lower speed rated ones, to cope with the higher forces they might be expected to withstand. Tread pattern, rubber, profile and the reinforcing cord buildup make a vast difference. In short a tyre must be suitable for the forces it may experience, including as bob says load rating.

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