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Snap-on do a range of spanners which looks a bit like the one in the picture made just for jobs like this where there is very limited access

I had one of these buses a few years back Every time you start it up you could here the heater hot/cold flap open and close Can't remember now which it was at when off ? Nearly all cars have a small draft air flow some using the fan at a very slow speed to insure good ventilation

If like you say there is no spark after it stops try disconnecting the stop/earth wire from coil and recheck for a spark! The small difference between coil to flywheel gap will make small difference to it sparking or not sparking it will slightly alter the timing but again unlikely to stop it sparking or running at all. I would personally say it sounds like 95% a coil brake down a total failure round the corner!!

I've got a butler 311Amp single phase MIG on a 16Amp supply that will 1mm up to 10mm in one pass! Cost £500 off eBay!! I also run a SIP150 MIG in the van which will do nearly all site brake down repairs We also have a 250amp AC/DC TIG in the workshop for alloy and stainless repairs we could use it for ARC as well but mid to high rang arc welding burns up the inverters !! Something to bear in mind! There's plenty of good secondhand kit out there but I would say stick to good brand names if buying secondhand ... If your planing to weld a lot of thin stuff a TIG would be the best thing for the job ( like brazing but with a controllable arc instead of a flame) And only one gas bottle needed!

Some information to resolve any dispute on bolt selection !! Stainless steel is an alloy of low carbon steel and chromium for enhanced corrosion characteristics. Stainless steel is highly corrosion resistant for the price and because the anti-corrosive properties are inherent to the metal, it will not lose this resistance if scratched during installation or use. It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to the low carbon content, stainless steel cannot be hardened. Therefore when compared with regular steel it is slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel fastener but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners. Stainless steel is also much less magnetic than regular steel fasteners though some grades will be slightly magnetic. 18-8 usually no markings refers to any stainless steel containing approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. This is the most common stainless designation for hardware. Common types up to 20mm 18-8 Stainless Steel alloy with 17-19% Chromium and 8-13% Nickel Metric fasteners Steel alloy marked A-2 with 17- 19% Chromium and 8-13% Nickel Tensile strength of around 500-700mpa Cllass 8.8 -16mm and below med carbon steel quenched and tempered Tensile strength of around 800mpa Class 10.9 - 16mm and below alloy steel quenched and tempered Tensile strength of around 1040mpa Class 12.9 Alloy Steel, Quenched and Tempered Tensile strength of around 1220mpa Steel is the most common fastener material. Steel fasteners are available plain as well as with various surface treatments such as zinc plating, galvanisation, and chrome plating. Imperial Steel fasteners are commonly available in 4 grades. Many other grades exist but are used far less often. The most common grades are Grade 2, Grade 5, Grade 8, and Alloy Steel. Grade 2, 5, and 8 are usually plated with a silver or yellow zinc Bolts of different grades are marked on the head to show what grade bolt they are. Imperial fasteners Grade 2 is a standard hardware grade steel. This is the most common grade of steel fastener and is the least expensive. Grade 2 bolts have no head marking (sometimes a manufacturer mark is present). Tensile strength of around 60,000-74,000mpa. (Decreases as size increases) Grade 5 bolts are hardened to increase strength and are the most common bolts found in automotive applications. Grade 5 bolts have 3 evenly spaced radial lines on the head. Tensile strength of around 120,000-105,000mpaound 60,000-74,000mpa. (Decreases as size increases) Grade 8 bolts have been hardened more than grade 5 bolts. Thus they are stronger and are used in demanding applications such as automotive suspensions. Grade 8 bolts have 6 evenly spaced radial lines on the head. Tensile strength of around 150,000 mpa Alloy Steel Alloy steel bolts are made from a high strength steel alloy and are further heat treated. Alloy steel bolts are typically not plated resulting in a dull black finish. Alloy steel bolts are extremely strong but very brittle. Tensile strength of around 65,000-100,000mpa So DON'T use stainless steel replacement blade bolts ! They could be a dangerous hazard which if things went wrong it would be your fault for fitting them !!!! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

The warning title was spot on The lady in red was a nice contrast and provided a nice moment or recovery from the Arrrrrrrrrrrrr! So I thought I would return a bit of advise not on how not to do it!.. But more to do with how to heal it!!! Buy a jar of honey and apply every dressing change this helps stop infection and speed flesh regrowth. Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

If it's only done 240 hours it shouldn't have to many issues ! Things to watch out for... Deck height adjustment below the seat, spray grease! As they can seize and they are a pig to get to. Check pto anti drag brake for adjustment ( bottom pulley in front of the front axle) Grease nipple under the front axle centre pivot - most don't know it's there so doesn't get greased! The grass box full pressure switch located in the left side of the grass chute - grass residue causes the rubber to go hard and stiff and the sticks in (buzzing) just wash with warm water! Steering ball joint if not already fitted there is a upgraded much improved new replacement available Front wheel bearings are normally loose on the shaft!! Don't buy Kubota belts or blades they are just simply over priced!! If you can't find a alternative supplier let me know. Like wise for the filters Electric assist steering has a multi plug just behind the mesh below the steering column on the right hand side these tend to go rusty and cause steering problems - clean and fill the plug with Petrolum jelly!! Hydraulic oil - Morris Lubricants JDF Transmission Fluid (or similar spec oil) If you try to remove the rear wings/floor - there is two bolts under the rubber matting in the middle up against the mesh!!! Just give us a shout about anything else. Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Something's are being looked at a little to deeply I think!! If a engine this size has a correctly working ignition system it will produce a good spark on any of the common lawnmower spark plugs resistor or not If like stated earthing stop lead has been disconnected the flywheel key is good and magnets are good! Two things remain! The gap between magnets and ht coil are to big! Easy way to reset this - turn the flywheel so the magnet is Inline with the coil place a folded price of paper between the two slacken the coil bolts magnets will pull the coil down on to the paper relighted bolts and turn flywheel to remove paper If this doesn't work then the coil needs to be replaced. Back fire could of been cause by fuel passing through the engine and igniting in the exhaust due to intermittent spark common on ignition coils before they give up.!! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Interesting puzzle ? A few questions if I may! What make and type plug have you got? What distance do you have between the flywheel magnet and the HT coil? When you say you have the plug clamped when testing with a battery drill where have you got it clamped? Does this mower have electric start and a battery fitted? Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Like mentioned before if cleaned out properly before attempting removal and using a impact driver to break the initial hold. The Torx design allows for a higher torque to be exerted than a similarly sized conventional hex socket head without damaging the head and/or the tool due to more contact between the bolt head and the tool tip. Timberwolf blade bolts M10 x 120mm Recommended tensile strength 10.9 Size T50 Point2point distance 0.346"/8.83mm Max torque 97.4-117 lbft/132-158Nm Retighten each screw to 45lbs ft / 60Nm Always follow the manufacturer’s specifications for torque settings DO NOT USE THREAD LOCK! Clean threads with wire brush and coat threads with copper grease.. We would only fit genuine blade bolts and strongly recommend anyone changing blade bolt to do the same! Stainless steel has a much hard compound to match with regards to strength and many stainless steel fasteners may be the same size thread and length but strength of the threads and shank vary ! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Q. Why should vans have lower speed limits than cars when they now have modern advanced braking systems like cars? A. The main reason for these lower speed limits is that goods vehicles are designed to be able to carry heavier loads and when laden they will tend to take longer to slow down than a car travelling at the same speed. Q. Why are the speed limits different when very often cars & vans are in the same tax class for DVLA registration purposes? A. Some people make the mistake of thinking that if a van is in the same tax or registration class as a car then it is subject to the same speed limits. However the two issues are unrelated and they are governed by different legislation. National speed limits are set out in the 1984 legislation are based on the possible load capacities of the vehicle and whether or not it is used for carrying passengers. Q. Are there any exemptions from these lower speed limits for vans? A. There is one (small) group of vans which have the same speed limits are cars by virtue of the definitions in Schedule 6 of the Road Traffic Regulation Act of 1984. These are vans that are both derived from a car chassis and also have a maximum laden weight of no more than 2 tonnes. This means that the weight of the vehicle and the payload it is designed to be able to carry when added together do not exceed 2 tonnes. The van design must be a derivative of a car body, it is not sufficient that it looks similar to a particular car. Q. Which vans meet the criteria to be considered car derived vans for speed limit purposes? A. Very few vans will meet the criteria to benefit from the same speed limits as a car. Those that do are likely to be similar to a Ford Fiesta van ,Vauxhall Corsa or Renault Clio van in having maximum payloads of around 500kgs so that when combined with the weight of the vehicle unladen (normally around 1.4 tonnes) the maximum laden weight of the whole vehicle will not exceed 2 tonnes. What this means is that vans such as the Ford Transit and (and of course the larger panel vans) will not meet the definition of car derived vans set out set out in part IV section 2 of the Road Traffic Regulation Act 1984. Therefore these vehicles will be subject to speed limits of 50mph on single carriageways and 60 mph on dual carriageways. Q. When did these rules come in and shouldn't they be changed now? A. These speed limit rules have been in place for well over 20 years and there are no plans to change these limits to allow vans to be driven at higher speeds because ministers remain to be convinced that it would be safe to do so. Q. Do these speed limits apply if the van is travelling without a load? A. The national speed limits apply to the vehicle type and it makes no difference whether the vehicle at a particular time is fully loaded, partially loaded or travelling without a load. Hope that helps!! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Undertaking - is it illegal? I recently read an article which referenced how seemingly The Highway Code does not hold under-taking to be illegal. In towns and cities overtaking on the left is allowed, as per Section 163 of The Highway Code. It's perfectly acceptable if the car in front is turning right, or pulling into a right-hand filter lane, so long as you exercise the same caution as you would if over-taking on the right. Regarding motorway travel, Section 268 acknowledges that the outside lanes on a motorway may be travelling slower than those on the inside, and so undertaking vehicles in those slower-moving lanes is to be expected, particularly during congested times. As the Highway Code specifically uses the words ‘MUST’ and ‘MUST NOT’ to indicate legal requirements and nowhere in The Highway Code does it say a driver 'must not' overtake using an inside lane. In fact, Section 268 states, “Do not overtake on the left or move to a lane on your left to overtake.” The use of 'do not' instead of 'must not' means it is technically legal to overtake in any lane except the hard shoulder. Road users should avoid overtaking using the inside lane in any circumstance. The odd under-take here and there won’t attract too much negative attention from police, particularly if a situation obviously calls for it, but beyond that it could cause you problems. You can be charged with ‘dangerous driving’, or ‘driving without due care and attention’, both of which can result in fines and up to eleven points on your licence, depending on the extent of the damage caused by your driving. Section 264 says “You should always drive in the left-hand lane when the road ahead is clear. If you are over-taking a number of slower-moving vehicles, you should return to the left-hand lane as soon as you are safely past.” In conclusion, it seems that it is perfectly legal to over-take in the 'wrong' lane, but not always advisable. Considering the recent proposals to provide police with further powers to issue fixed penalty notices and points on licence for such issues as lane hogging etc I would not advocate any under-taking manoeuvre unless absolutely necessary. Subscribe | Comment on this story Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Dealer RVW PUGH! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Take a look here.... http://www.afmtractors.co.uk/enquiry.php Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

That wouldn't mr rvw... Would it? Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

I worked for Lamborghini dealer years ago basically the same thing Nothing really a issue more than any other make! Bottom of the gear stick brakes if your to keen in your gear changing but should it brake it's about 25 minutes to change O rings in the rear trumpet housing were sometimes a issue they seal the rear brake piston as they are fitted wet brake disc (run in oil) hold your foot on the pedal hard and see if the pedal slowly goes to the floor. Check for any servicing history as things are moving fast when at road speed so rear end transmission oil and filters needs to be kept in check or the hydraulic pump suffers Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

To answer your first question The solenoid valve is in this case a electrically operated hydraulic valve open/closed by supplying a electrical current (12v in this case) through a coil producing a magnetic field which which moves the valve within the valve block when the electrical power is cut the valve returns back to it's starting position (which can be a open position or a closed position) The coil itself normally found covered in plastic but can also have resin or steel outer casing will get warm with continue use but if reaching a level which it's hot or to hot to touch then it is more than likely the internal insulation has broken down causing it to operate hot and in many cases the outer insulation will swell and split. There is many different types in size and strength/power consumption It is common the other coil packs on the same valve block are the same and swapping these over may help determine which is at fault if you are unsure The replacement part is usually easily available from your local dealer matching up to alternative part is possible but not alway easy/simple Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Not all chipper blades are hollow ground!!! If fact most aren't ! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Sharpening chipper blades If attempting this yourself !!! Bear in mind the speed these spin round at going pass an anvil with about 2mm clearance .... You sharpen your blades on the bench and one is ground at a slightly different angle resulting in one being longer than the other 2mm isn't much of a gap! If as they should be the blades are sharpened as sets at the same time same angle Ect then they will perform better and last longer.. We offer blade sharpening service and if required we can do it via post Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Wrong! We are a service dealer We provide service and maintenance back up There is a difference ! And we also do any make or model of chippers or stump grinders and we use the same practice on all makes.. Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

When changing bearings flywheel Bearings I would always recommend you use genuine bearings!! In this case there are two different bearing housing between front and back and can be hazardous fitting a standard bearing in the wrong place! There are also different tolerance specs eg Timberwolf 150 flywheel bearing can be bought 'off the self' In 3 different specs the spaces between the ball bearings and he race differs to counter act heat expansion !!! Fit the wrong one ... And the genuine bearings is the one selected by the manufacturer to perform best (so we hope anyway!) I never compromise on flywheel bearings. The cost of a failure out ways the saving ! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

I know there are mixed opinions about tool when ever anyone says Snap-on!! They are a professional tool of high quality And as for costs of ratchets they give a life time warranty on the ratchet heads which come as a kit! So should you get over keen and break it it can be fixed and put back into use In which case it could be called Eco friendly ... If you buy Snap-on flank drive sockets they won't round you nuts off!! They will in most cases undo nuts which have had the corners rounded! I have Snap-on in my box along with a little bit of the French Facom Britool tools bits of draper one or two Beta plus a few other branded bits And even some unbranded stuff! But without any question over the many years first starting with tools from the Sunday market it is now mainly Snap-on and from all them years nothing has proven to be trustworthy and reliable Regardless you could replace 3 or 4 times with cheaper tools if it lets you down in the field it's like turning up at a job and the chipper, grinder or saw won't start it's pointless waste of time and money I'll shut up now! ... Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

That means they must be over charging for the red grease !!! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Mine to ! I still have tools form when I first started taking engines apart (first worn out hand down bike Suzuki 185ts ) It's using common sense if something starts to bend then it's going to break sooner or later !! Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!