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Everything posted by WeFixIt

  1. Most common failure for feed roller shafts is large Y prices ! A chipper with good performing feed rollers will pull in most lengths of timber, Y prices squash through the hopper and spring open with great force causing feed roller shafts to fail or with some other brands of chipper it can brake the feed roller hydraulic motor drive shaft . Cut your Y pieces, simple prevention failure is operators abuse! It’s a chipper not a compactor
  2. So who has seen the new Stihl fuel injection chainsaw? And whats the verdict?
  3. I Guess that's simple the beauty of Forst..
  4. In theory yes you could ! But seriously it’s not designed to do that and it would void any warranty you have! Your hydraulic system in your chipper is closed circuit if you start splitting joins apart or fitting QR fittings then you run the risk of getting contamination in the hydraulics and then your be buying a new pump, oil and filter! Which would be the biggest part of buying a chipper with its own engine and pump and if you sell your current splitter your be even nearer!
  5. Yeah your right! That’s what you get for texting faster than you can think.. Also blade set to close can suffer from wood/chip getting stuck between the two forcing the flywheel to flex and causing a undesirable effect!
  6. So in your scenario what if the Manager is also the Engineer! or the Engineer is also the Director!?
  7. I’am guessing by the fact your adjusting the blades each time you have the older style flywheel which has 2 adjusting bolts on the rear edge of each blade! In most cases the blade angle to anvil is adjusted by moving the main flywheel bearings This will normally result in adjustment of reducing or increasing the gap but the the blade to anvil closest point is always the edge nearest the centre of the flywheel If you have new or good flywheel bearings small gap is fine the outer edge is a larger gap still good! As the flywheel will isolate when spinning at speed a little bit and then you stick a lump of wood in its way and so it will then isolate a lot but that’s ok because you have a tapered blade gap Make your gap to small and one day your be posting pictures of your chipper where the flywheel has been trying to climb out of the chipper or it’s spitting chunks of steel out of everywhere! Anvil changing well like blades depends what your chipping! Some anvils are single use some are reversible those that are should only be turned once not each blade change or every other but when on inspection it is deemed no longer serviceable, refacing in some cases can be done but caution refacing some anvils could have undesired effects, the anvil has been manufactured the size it is for a reason! and it fits snuggle in position and is just the right height and thickness to do its job also like blades they are ground to angles to assist performance. Like blades when fitting anvils it is so important to clean every bit of chip, dirt and crap out before fitting. As many will know but possibly some won’t a bit of dirt or wood or stone gets stuck between the anvil mounting and the anvil it will break down over time due to compression and vibrating and fall out like dust leaving you with a loose anvil next to a high speed spinning flywheel!! Or if it’s behind the anvil it could cause it to warp and make contact with the flywheel blades!
  8. This is what a Jensen manual says!
  9. Isn’t that the same as the engineer says one thing and the management sill have no idea!
  10. What I was saying in the past 10 years I’ve only seen 3 Jensen chippers with shins fitted and I’ve seen quite a lot! Neither is that because they all had new blades fitted! In Europe Jensen set the chippers with a wide gap at blade to anvil, when they were imported by Redwood they reset/reduced the gap for the UK market. Therefore the gap produced by wear/resharpening has a bigger allowance before and issue of the gap being to big that shims are needed..
  11. Little bit of self correction new blades and anvil!
  12. Simple rule to follow Minimum of 2 mm (thickness of a standard hacksaw blade) less than 2 mm runs the risk of blade to anvil contact, this gap should always be set with a new set of blades, Bolts, nuts,locking washer and mounting points on flywheel should be cleaned spotless, all traces of rust removed and a thin layer of copper grease to help stop corrosion, rust build up behind blades causes them to crack! Despite Jensen supplying shims with the chippers when new, I’ve found many owners don’t use them! I would be interested to hear how many do?
  13. Toro bolts are used for a reason! A Torx head can... actually accept more torque than a hex head or Allen socket head as long as the proper torx bit is used, It's the same principle as a philips head screw as opposed to a slot head. The torx pattern has more bearing/contacting surface area to spread the torque force over. Failure is usually due to incorrect size, worn tools or incorrect angle of use. In relation to the torx bolts holding the blades on, a good quality impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) with a socket style torx the correct size (IMPORTANT! Clean out torx head with small screw driver or pick) first tighten the torx bolt! One good blow of the hammer, then spray with penetrating fluid (WD40) now undo the torx bolt twith the impact drive 2-3 good hammer hits and they will normally be turning. Once removed Clean bolt threads with wire wheel or wire brush apply copper grease not loctite retighten To torque setting.
  14. When you left the top feed roll all the way up there is a threaded hole which one of the 2 bolts which hold down the flywheel top cover will screw in to and in sufficient will stop the feed roller from dropping back down This is not only safer (no chance of a block slipping but it also leaves everything free to work on but the important bit is you screw the bolt in sufficiently if not all the way.
  15. When you left the top feed roll all the way up there is a threaded hole which one of the 2 bolts which hold down the flywheel top cover will screw in to and in sufficient will stop the feed roller from dropping back down This is not only safer (no chance of a block slipping but it also leaves everything free to work on but the important bit is you screw the bolt in sufficiently if not all the way.
  16. The tensioner pulley does go on the inside, if you fit the belts on the outside you wont be able to apply any tension to the belts as the adjustment will only pull the idler roller outwards via the lock nut as can be seen in the above picture. Just a little extra to add regarding belts - Don't over tighten your hydraulic pump drive belt! as this could cause premature wear and failure of the pump!!
  17. Was one of these on a AUSA training course back in 2001 they had just released it then with a single hook demountable body giving you multiple options! prices were around the £30,000 mark
  18. 1. it’s cheaper in bulk 2. it good for years 3. no plastic waste 4. barrel is recyclable steel 5. Time saved mixing & buying fuel 6. It will always be better for your health
  19. You could always buy ASPEN in 200 Ltr barrels! No plastic to recycle....
  20. To be fair the repairs to Forst chippers has got less as time goes by As lessons have been learnt, prevention has been put in place in most cases..
  21. I believe yours has auto sweep and more horse power and slightly more refined!
  22. We are in the west midlands
  23. Another Jensen! this one was just a repair and tidy paintwork to look more presentable for site work (didn't get any really go pictures beforehand!


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