spiral

Olive oil & water 50/50 shaken together & poured over an old tea towel then wipe the slate... We use it on the slate tiles around the fire... Stays dark for a long time...

Not for me, but info needed would general be DBH, age & height to first limb...

How much for the 6 pine boards? I am in North Devon.

I often have to use that approach & Ripping while green is worthwhile, as is cross cutting out any obvious problem areas... as long as timber is still well weighted or held while drying... But cut a wider than you need... Planeing isn't worth it, you probably lose more wood in the long run by first planeing green. Plane when dry.

Ring a few wood yards to try & buy some!

That can get you a couple of years inside... If you plead guilty.

Link... £20,000 court bill after Elsenham tree surgeon admits burning waste | Bishops Stortford Herts & Essex Observer I wonder if it was another member of the family that ran the scrap business?

Such signs seem highly sought after... AOL.co.uk -Video - Unbelievable CCTV: Robbers Steals Lollipop Man's Sign

Local farmer in planning dispute.... South Oxfordshire fires: Farmer caught in 30 year planning row under arrest - Mirror Online

Interesting, does that means its sapwood? The 200 year old 18in to 3ft diameter ones round here only have an inch of sapwood, but the 6 inch saplings{which are fairly fast grow as well.} Have no visible darker heartwood? I guess it takes a long time to start laying down browner heartwood?

Nice bowl, looks like it was from a very fast grow sapling!

Wow, Sounds like it likes much of the south then, not just Devon! Not like it as firewood? Why? It one of my favourite firewoods!

Perhaps... Lots of big ones around the coast in Devon, most go for firewood, but if I had the opportunity Id say go for quartersawn with no knots & straight grain. It makes great wedges , chopping boards, marking gauges, planes etc. in smaller dimension's. So I guess a craft wood really in the UK. Probably great turned like many other unstable timbers as well. Up until last summer, most of our firewood for about 8 years was evergreen oak.... burns really hot after only 6 months seasoning.. must be brilliant after a year or so. My axe chopping block for last 6 years is 18 inch diameter holm oak lower branch with, knots & burr about 2ft high, over 200 years old.... took two of us to lift it... Reckon it will last for many more years... I really love the stuff but it is a pig as well.

Have to agree when UK grown warps badly, The front panel of this chest I made 20 years is Exmoor farm grown Holm oak. Second piece of furniture I ever corbeled together. The plank started 3 inch thick, C.30 inch wide ,pit sawn, at 5 1/2 ft long. Very slow grown. Some butt & lots of catspaw. Had been stored in a barn then a loft for decades. It ended up 35mm thick & 3 ft long and when one end was flat to a surface it was still so banana shaped the other end was 6 inches up in the air! Had to pull it straight with about 10 sash & t barclamps & fix it with them in place, with the chest structure.. Also Here's an off cut with a bit of brown streak in it, although from the same flat sawn plank rays still very visible. It was of the hardest bit of English timber Ive worked with, But all good in the end.

Here it is again guys...

The family need to instruct a no win no fee solicitor, They can pay for an expert witness arborist, who will say the council should have recognised the tree was a danger, the council will pay for an expert witness arborist ,who will say it wasn't there fault. The courts will decide or the council will capitulate & make an offer. If you win you may get suitable compensation. If you don't, only the paid arborists & court employees get paid.

Like all beliefs including Christianity & Islamism, in the world we live in today, it only matter if you or those around you believe, otherwise it wont effect you... Historically though to cut Rowan, Hawthorn, Holly, Yew & elder trees was considered bad luck by country folk. Interestingly they all bear berries {food for humans & animals} & historically often grew in windswepet & harsh places, in Denmark I was told by a special forces type that if caught snow drifts in the country look for a holly to crawl under to be still alive in the morning. Both for shelter & ease of getting a fire going with green & dead leaves & twigs from underneath it{It was relevant as night before id been carried back in to a party from lying face down in a snow drift a couple of hundred yards away. {I was 16 & had to much frozen schnapps with the smoked eels, & the snow felt very refreshing face down... } I guess in British urban areas leylandi would almost do! So I wonder if the origins of this was there more valuable as trees than many in rough, barren windswept areas? spiral

I understand all that Steve, & agree, just with the exception that Ive seen, the outermost crown boards cup a lot so do the innermost, but it seems to me there is a peak point, on exceptionally large trees where the boards are more stable. At a guess it would be the first outer board of the inner square if one squared the log like a beam first? Its boards were the growth rings are almost equally flat across the end grain of the board but but the opposite of quarter sawn.

mmm interesting J with crown cuts Ive always thought the larger the trunk, & the flatter the growth rings across the board the better the stability? Its when the growth rings on the outer edges of a crown cut are more perpendicular to the board that that the cupping increases? that's normally the lesser diameter pieces? But you've cut & dealt with 100s of times more beach than I. So where would you say peak stability point on a crown cut is? I know the far outer is no good , nor the inner. {other than quartersawn.} I figured at 8 to ten inches in from the bark, that might be a fairly stable board. {Although of course all beech is horribly unstable stuff.} I was assuming the second length was the one full of c.2ft diameter branch stubbs? to me that visiblr top side at least is firewwod. What I presume is a third length looks more viable if the large branch is cross cut out.

For a commercial mill , clearly not worth it, for an money making enthusiast with time to spare that outer 8 to 10 inches of good wood is worth slicing off perhaps all round the tree. {Like American grade sawing.} Could yield a couple of gorgeous figured 2 inch deep, 3ft wide boards from beneath the sap & above the rot on all 4 sides, I would guess? A lot of work for 4 or 5 potentially nice boards, though. But At that size that's probably the most stable prime cut other than quarter sawn? Then just leave the middle to rot away.... it wont take long.

Defiantly a magnolia, Not sure of variety....

Some con people even sell ringed cars off other peoples driveways. An owner visiting there house doesn't show the damp features to you through a window... He unlocks the door.

evergreen oak grown near the coast..... Or anything heavy from the tropics.

The supermarket flea & worm stuff rarely works, they build an immunity to it over time. Bayer advantage works well, available from vets or at a fraction of the cost online. spiral

Cool, Many of my students made similar! Looks good, but to my eye, {& anyone who bends over it!} cut to length so tip is in the nut holding the top board is both more aesthetic & safer. But others mileage may vary!