Ukulian

I have one and it has proved to be excellent. Gets used more than my 3 handheld ones and adjustments, cutter and collet changes are accurate/simple. Plenty of power too.

I'd be inclined to go for a Router table using it's own power and taking both 1/4 and 1/2" collets, as well as a palm router like the Bosch mentioned above Covers most things you are likely to want to do.

That's the one Steve. I couldn't, for the life of me, remember where I'd seen it, but saved it to file and we have a copy laminated and use it in the workshop to explain stuff to customers.

Yes, there are a lot of variables, and I take 'Conifers' in this extract to mean 'Softwoods' as the other half of the table I have is entitled 'Hardwoods' (Half of which score worse than Corsican Pine!!) .

Not mine, but of interest here. Can't remember where I got these figures from, but it is available on the 'net. "The average life in years of 50mm by 50mm posts in ground contact prior to failure. Larger cross sections can be expected to last longer. However it may not be directly proportional to the 50mm by 50mm posts on test. All samples are heartwood. The range of timbers listed are commonly available species grown in the UK. The range of lifespans can be used as a guide to the relative natural durability between the species. Most durable being “1” Conifers 1 Yew 17.2 2 Western red cedar 15.1 3 Sequoia 15.0 4 Leyland cypress 14.9 5 Larch 12.0 6 Lawson cypress 11.7 7 Douglas fir 9.4 8 Silver fir 7.6 9 Scots pine 7.4 10 Western hemlock 6.0 11 Grand fir 5.3 12 Spruce ( Norway and Sitka) 5.2 13 Corsican pine 5.0 Ref. BRE Laboratory Report. The Biological Natural Durability of Timber in Ground Contact by G.A. Smith and R.J. Orsler" Hope it helps

Great idea, excellently executed!

We use it green regularly for outdoor furniture/benches. Lovely stuff to work. Durable, sands nicely (at the expense of a few more sanding discs than dry timbers) and oil really 'pops' the grain pattern. Use it

CC is the Cubic Centimetre capacity, or size of the engine, normally a single cylinder. The hp is Horse Power, sometimes measured in Kw (Kilowatts) and tells you the actual working power of that engine. As explained above, not every X cc engine has X hp(Kw) which is where the confusion arises. HIH

Done

I've used United Hosting for years, they're brilliant. 2am in the morning you can email them and they'll get back to you inside 5 minutes. (less than 10 even in daylight when they're busy!) Costs me a fiver a month. Result. :)

A happy and prosperous new year to all. Have a great one

Re-organise yard to (sensibly) make room for milling with new mill. Move carving area, build solar kiln, try more fairs and try not too get too bored with doing what others want doing rather than what I'd like to be doing!

You can FEEL the difference. Diesel is the oily one.

Came a couple of weeks ago, but is definitely the best pressie

You're welcome. On my 280 it's a tight fit, but fits fine onmy 352.

These ones fit the Echo's. They also fit on the Sthil cans.

Haven't used a specialist mortice chisel since I was at school (and that was a long time ago! ) I must admit though, that all my mortices have been cut with power tools. The FatMax set are bevel-edged.

The Stanley ones, nowadays marketed as 'FatMax', have lasted me the top side of 20 years and still hold an excellent edge. As above, learn to keep them sharp.

Only if something goes wrong (hit a nail for example) and you have to get the blade out the way it went in! It's too easy to pull the blade off the wheels if you don't wedge the kerf open.

I'd love to be able to add to this thread, but only having had a bandsaw mill for a little over a week, I'm more interested in what other tips folks have got. Great info to start with Jon, Thanks.

Laburnum is a very hard timber, and the heartwood is quite tolerant as far as splitting is concerned, although the sapwood (the lighter coloured bit) is very likely to split if brought into a centrally heated area so soon. Your best bet would be to plank it and keep it to air dry and use for next years Christmas pressies. I use a drying box, which is just a big box with a de-humidifier running 24/7 inside, and that brings Laburnum down to between 6 - 10% MC in about 4 months.

Done

Certainly no joke! Use one daily for 6 months now. Got better over the first month or so of running in. I have carved all day with it without a hitch. That's with Sugi bar and Oregon full feature chain. :)

I do a 50 mile round trip, driving past a Stihl/Echo dealer on the way, in order to support an Echo dealer that looks after their customers. Before I found them, I bought online and would have had to post a small warranty job on one saw back to them 'for assessment'! The dealer I drive past spent a week telling me 'out of stock', 'back order' etc. on a special part, which frustrated me so I phoned around. My new regular dealer not only had the part in stock, but said 'bring the saw and I'll fit it for you'! That dealer now gets all my business. They answer my questions, even the awkward ones by promising to phone me back and then actually doing so with the best answer they can. Well worth the few percent extra over the online deals. :) And they do the warranty work on the stuff I bought online previously (not that there's been much). Just wanted to see a copy of the invoice in order to date it correctly. :)

Dangerous mis-information! They are in fact, totally vegetarian. Their main diet actually consists of Tree!!!