Will C

Check it’s getting full revs or the no stress will stop the rollers. The sensor on he stop bar has been known to vibrate lose and move toward the stop bar so it thinks the bar is pushed all of the time. the hood cover sensor can be tested by dropping a socket over it so it thinks the bonnet is shut. It’s the same side as the key (be warned doing so will mean it can run with the bonnet open so don’t stick your fingers in anything you wouldn’t stick your old chap in)

To check the lift button on the remote unplug the remote there are 3 pins in the plug. Find the live one with a tester, then bridge that pin to one of the other 2, one of the others is tip and the other is lower. Will show if the remoter is working to rule one more thing out

But a group of arbs in the middle of the woods are “at work” aren’t they 😉 so exempt from the rules of six. If they happen to be having a beer at break time who are we to judge 🤣 🤔

Measure up the stud pattern (pcd) and chuck it into google, I know a lot of 4 stud trailers are the same as mk2 golf etc so plenty of options cheaply - don’t forget to check the centre bore 👍 or pick the chipper up with the loader 🤔

@Big J all for biomass or do they have another market? That’s some impressive growth

We have a range of sizes depending on the job, as a groundie any thing up to 50cc will do most things (any bigger you are lugging extra weight that’s not needed), the 261 is a nice size that will do felling work as well. or if you want really light a back handle 201 is good but a little pricey to start but they do punch well above there weight. Equally don’t be put off by the 200 and 220 battery saws, there great for basic ground work but won’t keep up with a 261 etc when you start a felling 15inch plus stems. bear in mind you won’t have fuel cost which can offset some of the purchase cost but you will want 2 batteries For a full day and that may struggle if you need to ring a stem up at end of the day. if you can afford to Look at the pro saws (of any brand) they will cost you more but last longer giving better value for money longer term -unless budget dictates avoid the 170 & 180 range of stihls, they are throw away homeowner. There are equal husky or echo saws but I don’t know them as we deal with the Stihl dealer but that doesn’t mean they are not worth a look. My Sam will work with all our saws as needed, lighter the better, big saw for big jobs but no need to knacker your self lugging a big saw about when it’s not needed.

If you want a decent saw on the island go to Mike Garwoods (case tractor dealers) and speak to Steve or Tim. There on the roundabout just past vectawarm on newport industrial estate, they sell Stihl gear and carry a good range of saws and spares. if you want husky or echo try Albany garden machinery on forest road. Most local tree teams use Garwoods as the spares back up and service is probably the best locally both of those will also have some basic ppe in stock but basic and being in it 5 plus days a week basic isn’t always best but will get you started. as to a file kit, you want one to fit your saw and get good with it, always turn up with a sharp saw other wise you might as well be carrying a small plastic spoon

RIP all the men in tier 4 that thought they would get there wives Christmas present on Christmas eve.

👍 I wouldn’t worry to much, as Fred Dibnah said “you only fall off once”

It may not help cash flow short term but remember that a mainstream brand will also hold a resale value, a Chineseium one may not be worth anything in 5 years time.

Nice one. Who have you got in with?

What have you got in the way of Capital (never share your bank balance but are you able to invest if needed) and or gear owned already? the big thing to remember is to not sell your self short, find out what everyone else is charging in your area and match it, and never be available to fit a job in next week apart from genuine emergencies. You ARE always busy when asked, a trades man (in any industry) that isn’t busy can’t be much good in the public’s eyes.

Words escape me, personally I wood fell and replant, the ongoing care will cost as much longer term to get a decent tree back, and a new tree will look far better and last longer. as to the mess left behind 🤦‍♂️ bloody pikeys are a major problem to the standards and way the industry is viewed by the public 🤬

My fellow apprentice was sent for a new bubble for the sprit level, He was sent back with a drop of water on a tile with strict instructions not to let it roll off 🤣 the same teacher/boss got me when I had my toe caps welded to the bench leg with a bit of bar, you can’t undo your boots when they are under the bench so I was stuck all lunch time. I was also left with my finger over the outlet hole on a tractor diesel tank that was half full while my boss went for a brew (aged 13 ish)

What do you call a man with no arms or legs swimming? cleaver d***

There was two fish in a tank. One said to the other “Do you know how to drive this thing?”

Preditor 460 is a cracking machine, a touch wide for a standard door ways by punches well above it’s weight. The turntable on a pedestrian grinder makes a huge difference to output and operator fatigue.

App working but on line isn’t right, I can’t get my head round the app, it’s not at fault I’m just a Luddite (and happily so)

I’ve used many different grinders and can’t fault predator the machines have been good to me as has the parts availability, the back up with technical issues has been service second to none. the drive on the 460 is excellent, it can be got through doors at a 45deg angle but it takes 2 people to lift it into that position and keep it there, it’s not ideal if you need to do it all the time ? the 28 and 38 will get into most places and I think take some beating. remember smashing timber apart is hard on any kit, they will all break at some point. Don’t focus on the odd break down focus on how it’s sorted, that’s what makes the difference ?

Try a gentle twist, the bush can get misaligned and the lugs pop out of there holes if you have had it stuck and wiggled it to hard. i found graphite powder seems to lube them well. if you have to change to bush remove the cable from the motor end and pull some string back with it to get the cable back through the tube afterwards, it’s a proper fiddly bugger. Good luck with it.

Loosen the black bit at the join, should be able to separate the two half’s of the shaft. There is a bush on the end of the internal part. There only a couple of quid but fiddly to change

Looks smart being hidden in there rather than sat out front. What did you wire into and how do you get to the clutch lever?

We have found much the same, we have locking center and rear diff on the v10. Bloody thing doesn’t stop off road till it’s really bad, then it’s a long walk back ?‍♂️ As to towing it’s effortless by far the best truck we have had, the air springs keep it level as well so it’s not quite so fussy on trailer nose weight

Roll it on fence posts/tree trunks, will move fairly easy if you use ground guards as well - it worked for stone henge - I know this cause Stubby told me and he was there (apparently, but I’ve not seen the pics)