treesrus

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birch isn't the only tree that shouldn't be pollarded, (cherry, laburnum, walnut, most conifers), but it seems to be the most commonly butchered urban tree. pollarding works best with trees that throw out epicormic best, lime, plane, chestnut are the best examples, it can be done with ash, sycamore, willow and others, but when not done for the use of the resulting regrowth, then it is done for aesthetic reasons, and here is the point, silver birch are tall elegant trees, but when pollarded, they tend to be less attractive. add to this the fact that taller trees cast less of a shadow than topped trees do.

most commonly pollarded trees are lime and plane, primarily because they put out fresh epicormic growth readily, and after many years of pollarding have that desirable appearance often seen in city/town avenues. the original reason for pollarding was to get young straight lengths used for fencing, wattle, etc. same as coppicing, but in areas where grazing animals can't reach. so pollarding birch really means topping, which i am often asked to do because "it's a bit tall, isn't it?". and my answer is "no, madam, it's as tall as it's meant to be and perfectly safe" A birch is, if left alone, a tall, slender tree that lends itself to town/city gardens as it's crown is relatively lightweight, and is a handsome tree. it is also a mistaken idea that topping a tree allows more light, as regrowth leads to a denser crown, whereas a crown lift actually does allow more light under a tree, ( the sun is rarely directly overhead) and it is also correct that birch wood rots quickly, although the live wood is very tough.

glyphosate does work on J.Knotweed but it requires persistence. problem with JK is the extensive root system that develops over time. small and youngish infestations are easily eradicated, but old ones are more difficult. one DEFRA report gives JK reappearing after 20 years, and in my own patch, similar results - one patch i have was buried in the 60's and keeps popping up in different places.

i've put some on the lathe, lovely markings and works quite well.

i totally agree - tipping is no good for any tree, and if it must be done, then there are better solutions, (removal and replaced with more appropriate tree). the usual reason for tipping is for the council approved arborists to make money. read what Alex Shigo has to say about this practice.

got back to the truck to find the groundie standing next to the trailer, chatting on his mobile, with a huge pile of brash and logs waiting to be loaded. i said to him, you know how some people give names to their cars, well, i have a name for my trailer - it's called Phil.....

i think i'll see if there's any jobs going for tree surgeons on the oil rigs.....

LIDL have them just now at p£7.99, and they are surprisingly robust. they also have pruning saws for £2.99 - i bought 8 of them.

let all the brash dry before burning - less smoke, and don't use a tyre to start your fire, that alone is trouble. use some dry bash as kindling, then burn at night.

did a quote for a bloke 3 weeks back, told him i could do it in about 2-3weeks as i was pretty busy, i call in 2 weeks to confirm a date. he agreed, price was right, had a chat about various things, very freindly. called him 2 weeks later, he said some bloke came round 2 days after i was there and did the job. would have been nice if he'd at least told me. b'stard.

there is a lot of competition out there from imported stuff from afric and the east, not good quality but cheap, and also a lot of retired blokes knocking stuff out to sell at craft fairs, again much of it poor quality and cheap. for quality, unique turnings from locally sourced timber, you have to ask at least for the work you put in and some. as 7 said, get to the craft fairs or wood fests, and don't expect to sell loads. you could also offer to turn something for the customer from whom you got the wood.

I was so impressed with the Collins tree guide, i bought a second one. i have a shelf full of tree books, but the collins, i have found to be the best for tree id.

ask him for a large portion of your quote, other you'll blow the whistle. i have no love of ins. companies - they don't like paying out, and try to put in all sorts of restrictive clauses that invariably work in their favour.

strangely enough, while i was in my workshop just now, i was thinking how about a new thread 'let's see pics of your workhop.' so here's mine, showing how i arange my chisels, using lengths of plastic drainpipe.

totally agree - but then that's how kids learn what not do - i almost hung myself on poly rope when i was 12. i have found poly rope useful but for friction hitches, seems too slick.

my latest effort - cherry with iron feet, diam 19cm, height 22cm. wood seasoned for 3 years but still moving, lid not flush anymore!

i started with a real cheapo bench lathe for about a year, until i knew what i was doing. then i spent £300 on a used floor standing Union Graduate with accessories. i can do big stuff as well as smaller items. main points being that as a floor standing lathe, i get plenty of room to move around it, mainly good when hollowing out, and it is also heavy enough to be very stable. i also have a small bench mounted lathe for items like pens, pendants etc.

Long reach and telescopic ain't the same machine.

i've been using echo long reach, both the multi-tool and the single arm, since they came out. As with all heavily used machinery, you get wear and tear and breakages. BUT the echo has a good balance, is lightweight, reliable and a pleasure to use. a few little niggles are the older model, imo, have a better cutter angle adjustment, and the ability to fold the cutters all the way back for transport required some minor alteration. as regard spares, no problem, get the part number right, and countax will get you next day delivery or shortly thereafter.

i've been using echo long reach, both the multi-tool and the single arm, since they came out. As with all heavily used machinery, you get wear and tear and breakages. BUT the echo has a good balance, is lightweight, reliable and a pleasure to use. a few little niggles are the older model, imo, have a better cutter angle adjustment, and the ability to fold the cutters all the way back for transport required some minor alteration. as regard spares, no problem, get the part number right, and countax will get you next day delivery or shortly thereafter.

don't know of any round here that compare to Westonbirt, but try Calderstones Park, in Liverpool - worth a visit.

if a tree is healthy, it will naturally compensate for the added weight and wind/sail factor, and as regards strangling a limb, although possible, it's not common. the issues arise when the tree becomes less than healthy.

ivy will not kill a tree. there are 2 main points about ivy in trees. 1. although ivy can hide the form of the tree and generally give a darker, gloomier aspect, i does provide substantial wildlife support. 2. the weight of the ivy, especially when wet or snow laden, can bring down a tree in decline. if the tree is healthy and strong, point 1. is the only issue. what tree? vaguely speaking, if the tree is listed, it could be oak.

insurance payed out £2100.- right-off for my landy. got a jap import mitsubishi pajero - it's got electric windows, interval wipers, immobiliser, air con, 2 huge batteries, 2.5 TD, handles better offroad, and is generally a much better vehicle for £700.-