treesrus
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Everything posted by treesrus
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What tree is this? Seems exotic
treesrus replied to jmonkfish's topic in Tree Identification pictures
cut-leaved walnut has similar foliage and bark. -
i have seen large beech go over, after the root plate slips on clay substrate, after excessive rainfall, Mattheck has some good illustrations.
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maybe Rowan, peeling bark is from lightning strike
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agree with old mill, benn using echo long reach since they first came on the market. older versions minor adjustment to get 180 foldback, otherwise excellent machinery. tendency to rest on pullcord casing, so glued extrs plastic on to reinforce. best to get spare parts from the U.S. unless you have contacts in Japan.
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yep, defo ELM, look for telltale insect activity...
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Mattheck - The Body Language of Trees is a must, as is anything by Shigo. add to that Alan Mitchell.
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it's a burr.
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they would have to be made from Mithril.
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it would make more sense to pre=empt any potential call outs - sell him on a thourough inspection and subsequent follow up work to deal with any potential failures.
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be sure the temperature on top of your burner is enough to drive the fan. my woodburner has a back boiler so much of the heat is diverted to the plumbing and not enough to drive the ecofan i bought, so now i use a standard electric fan.
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fuel filter could be hanging on that plastic loop attached to the fuel cap.
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i have Hertel & Reuss, 8x30 - been using them for over 30yrs now, excellent quality and robust. have been well bashed but are still fully aligned. 8x30 best size for general purpose and for spotting. check out RSPB for best info.
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i have a large (60ft) Monterey pine in my garden - the cones are large and very heavy, with up to 5 cones in each cluster. it is a fast growing tree, and the timber is relatively weak. we had a heavy snow fall a few years back that broke off about 1/4 of the crown, but i doubt that removing the cones would have made any difference. as previously said, a tree will do what it needs to do to stay upright.
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seen this on ebay - RARE Blacksmith Anvil Handforged Wrought Iron Tool Signed | eBay
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perhaps it once had a long wooden handle and was used as a lever for a specific job.
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thinning it with creosote means it soaks in really well to a good depth.
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i use a mixture of bitumen roof sealer and creosote
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when i was a kid, one of my mates set fire to the 5acre gorse we had near us - by the time the fire truck got there, there wasn't much left!
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yep, that's one of my favourite leylandii, the Castelwellan Gold - burn it
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pleached limes at Erddig, Wrexham
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same thing, reducing sail effect can include overall height and width reduction. if you reduce the height and width of a tree without thinning the inner branches, it becomes topping. thinning may be removal of smaller brachwork in the heart of a tree, or larger branches, i.e. reduction by thinning.
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thiining doesn't mean making a tree thinner! by careful selection, it is possible to reduce the height and width of a tree by cutting back certain branches to an appropriate point.
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maybe i was not clear, i agree that pollarding is a better option for many town/street trees when done correctly and regularly, but i have often seen it done badly, which then does raise questions about the health of the tree. secondly, if a tree is meant to be kept contained rather than pollarded, then crown thinning is preferable to badly, and irregular pollarding or, in other words, butchering. i also forgot to add that topping is not a good thing for a tree - it's just a money making practice.
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re: to pollard or not to pollard - depends on the situation. in the avenue/street pollarding, when done on a yearly basis, must be the better option - fewer leaves, more light(reduced crown), and attractive architectural aspect. but out in the open, when only attended to on a more irregular timeframe, then crown thinning would be a better option, particularly for the health of the tree.
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agreed - black walnut. once made a chess set from yew and walnut veneer, good combination.
