Macpherson

Yeah, here's the part numbers as they appear on the receipt, I stuck with the 14" bar so not to push my luck, didn't see the need for longer anyway. Sprocket, 1250 642 1201 3/8P 6T for MSA200 Chain 3616 000 0050 PS3 picco super chain 1.3mm / 0.050" 1.3P Bar 3005 000 4809 Chainsaw bar 14" Suits MS210 14" & MS 230 14" I had the dealer going round in circles for a bit but they came through although it's a curious little chain which they told me was off one of the polesaws , It's 3/8 alright but needs sharpened with a 5/32" file ... I've not tried a normal full chiz on it but there's probably no need. £76 inc is what they charged me, cheers.

There's my answer👍 But having just read the history of Carlton, they were bought by Blout international in 2008 and they're based in Portland, Oregon...Carlton were based in Milwaukie Oregon, bars and chain are still part of there business. cheers.

I was surprised how poorly the carton chain performed against the cheapo chains and the fact the the American didn't know that it's made in the US. It's Carlton I've been using in the Alaskan and it seems to keep it's edge well and really needs to be sharpened with a grinder as it's hardness eats files... being a different configuration to the competition I'm of a mind to try Oregon and Stihl ripping chain in order to compare but I don't really mill enough to justify it. Maybe the opposite would make more sense....get some Carlton 3/8 full chiz and put that to the test 🙃

It was interesting to see the brand new out the box up close views of the different cutters, most didn't look that sharp compared to a tooth sharpened with a diamond burr in a dremel. It would be more interesting to see the same test if the guy had sharpened all the chains the same way and set the depth gauges on each chain to be all the same... and kind of showed why you should sharpen a new chain, as has been mentioned on here before.

Absolutely no need for an apology, it was just the wee devil no my shoulder at arf one in the morning after many drams...I reckoned I new exactly what you meant but I just couldn't help myself 🤣 If I ever do upgrade I'm fairly sure it'll be to an 881.

I got to take exception to that, when I was looking for a 660 a 650 came up so I bought it, there's ef all wrong with it. Ok so it's 84.9 cc and 6.4 hp compared to the 660 at 91.6 cc and 7.1 hp So 6.7 cc down and 0.7 hp less....so what ? I've used it for milling and the odd big tree for a few years now, I mill with both a 25" and 36" set up...absolutely no bother, the hp difference or advantage between it and the 660 could easily be lost by either a poorly maintained saw or slightly dull chain or both. I've no idea why they made it as well as the 660 and if I had any kind of top end issue I'd change it up for sure but on the other hand if I had a reason to strip it down I recon it would be real easy to gain the 0.7hp or more with a few minor tweaks, And to the op if it's any help, I paid £500 for it in good nick and as with many of these larger saws it's fairly easy to see that it hadn't done much work, cheers.

Even if your doing a metal roof you really want to put felt or similar under it to provide a waterproof barrier that stops condensation getting to whatever your fixing onto, I usually use OSB / sterling board but it will swell quite a lot if it 's continually getting damp, cheers and seasons greetings.

This works for sharpening files and you can do it repeatedly, I've done it using both battery acid 'sulphuric' and mortar stain remover 'hydrochloric' revitalising engineers files that I've had for 50+ years, never throw another away 👍

Hi, I recon you used bitumen paint which melts the felt...what you need is roofing felt adhesive, they both kinda look the same but they ain't.. I learnt that the hard way too, cheers. Just noticed this was months ago, so you prob know this by now.

Seems that there is for the Echo at least... The Makita seems to be .325 Chainsawbars selector for chainsaw guide bars, chains and sprockets WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Using our unique Chainsawbars Selector, select your chainsaw make, model and bar size for results. Then click a bar for...

Hi, I use these diamond files for the 1/4" PM3 chain, you can obviously use them just as files but I cut them down taking off the point and just leave enough shank to fit in the dremel...makes it real quick and easy, you need to go at a slow speed or they'll start to burl and lube with a little water....you'll still need your glasses but it takes the pain out of the task. sourcingmap 2Pcs 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Diamond Grit: 150; File Type: Round. These needle files can satisfy your different needs. Widely used for art craft or... You do get different grits if you search around and you do need to be careful not to remove too much. I haven't had to do this for some time since I converted my MSA200 to the 220 spec....different class altogether 👍

Come on now, surely that's traditionally the drummers role 😁

Yep, the 270mm does a 4" cut which is enough for me and at under £200 seems like a bargain compared to the subject of this thread. I'd imagine that the 355mm version will have it's uses and must be a beast but at nearly 4 times the price it only cuts 30 mil more, 👍

And there lies the essential confusion whenever you try to get the best for your needs there's always a compromise forced on you, countless hours of swithering🙃 For me the extra research done due to reading this thread has led me to decide on an Eff off big Makita ripsnorter that fits on a track and if I need to plunge it I'll leave a screw loose, thanks guys. 😁

Yeah, the scheppach gear that I see when I visit the dealer near to me has always been, or seemed to be good quality and just out my price range... planers, bandsaws and other woodworking machines etc. I've certainly drooled over some of they're stuff. Perhaps they're trying to introduce an entry level range, cheers.

Yes, it seems that things have changed a lot since my last look about a year ago...Mafell also now do one with an 85mm plunge but it's well over a grand. That Scheppach looks more reasonably priced.. My Stihl dealer sells this brand and from what I've seen of they're other tools which are at least above average I recon it might be worth a look but if it's so much cheaper maybe it's not in the same league, cheers.

Ok, so not trying to derail the thread, but for anyone with similar needs to me regarding achieving a straight edge on milled slabs it turns out that large Makita circular saws like this can be run on their track system with an adapter... possibly other brands as well....£500 less and no doubt about quality. MAKITA HS0600 240v Circular saw - 270mm blade - Howe Tools UK WWW.HOWETOOLS.CO.UK Free next working day delivery on MAKITA HS0600 (240v Circular saw - 270mm blade) with no-quibble returns and full...

Yep, nothing worse than buying rubbish...I've also been looking into this for some time.. watched as much comparison stuff as I can but I kind of got stuck in the usual quagmire of indecision... apart from as others have said that the Mafell is head and shoulders above the rest. But as my main use will be to get a straight edge on milled boards the 55mm max depth of cut that most of these are limited to is less than ideal for such an expensive tool much in the same way that a table saw really needs to be able to clear 3" timber, imo. The Festool TS 75 seems to be the only plunge saw the offers a deeper cut, much more useful from my point of view...but at £700 and only with one 1.4m track it's awful costly particularly as I've read some negative reviews regarding quality. I've been thinking that it might be easier to modify a normal circular saw to run on a track although I wouldn't expect to be able to achieve the fine finishing cut that seems to be the USP of a proper plunge saw. Cheers.

I haven't read any of this thread as I couldn't be bothered with the general mind feck that's associated with all the usual opposing views, but.. To use the words ' great reset ' as the world seems to accepting to describe the ambitions of the megalomaniac criminals who are undoubtedly working hard to gain global control at any expense with the main target of they're attack on humanity being firstly to make em sick, secondly feck with they're minds and thirdly to fleece them of everything.. something that's only become possible in recent years due to the digital invasion ....Is clearly a gross exaggeration.😁 This type of language is certainly being used to frighten the unaware by using words and phrasing usually used to describe geological time and catastrophic events ffs... It's generally becoming accepted that the last great reset was the Younger Dryas 12800 years ago when an object struck the Greenland ice shelf. Traditional science, set in bedrock to most folk.. the unshakeable foundations of every load of rubbish that they try to sell us, which for some reason folk seem to trust unquestionally as a ' thing ' and which has, since it's inception or perhaps more accurately it's ' hijacking ' has been able to get away with just about any old rubbish that they spout in the name of profit and control. Cheers

Yeah, everyone has their own take / understanding of engines and I'd agree with you that the main variant that's outwith your control is the ambient temperature on any given day....I was milling yesterday in the pissin rain and the saw was normal and barely stressed but it would be a different story in a heatwave, cheers.

I agree with the second part as many are brutal with equipment, but a roasting saw fresh out of the slab really doesn't want to be subjected to much reduced tick over fuel / lubrication and the equal reduction in cooling air flow, I don't see a problem with shutting it off and letting it cool down....if it's not running no wear can take place.. the piston will shrink before the pot when combustion stops. On the other hand warming up before use is essential good practice as the piston being smaller will get hot and expand well before the barrel reaches operating temperature. ' Warming up ' doesn't mean letting it tick over for 10 mins while you do something else....the best method is to continuously blip the throttle making sure it gets plenty fuel for a few minutes gradually bringing it up to full revs when it should smoke a little burning off the extra fuel / lube that's built up in the process. Only my opinion of course.. but has long been best practice with high performance 2 stroke motorcycles. Also the 881 is advertised for milling 👍

Hi, I made the mistake of planting bamboo [ not black ] protect a caravan and when it took hold it did the job but after a good few years it started putting out suckers up to about 3/4 yards away and it became obvious that it had to go. I hit the main clumps with glyphosate several times which gradually worked very slowly, but I found the best way to get the suckers out was to undermine them as they're shallow and rip them out of the ground with a winch in the direction that they'd come from the main clumps and then treat any very small regrowth aggressively as it reappears....Wot a basturd. If at all possible just cut to the chase at the start and get as much out with a small excavator.. I'd imagine that if you leave the main root clumps in the ground it'll probably come back anyway, good luck.

Fantastic work👍

Have you got any? I know someone that everyone else locally would enjoy him having 👍 them all🤪

If it does ...send me a link🤣