Sandworks

Just my tuppence here,for an structural support on the curve of your deck choose the springiest piece of wood in your stockpile immerse in water…up to 4 days if you can, or we made up a length of ducting as a container….. hot/boiling water to start with……. (Hot water power hose ) and give it a top up of heat every few hours after 8 hours or so start fitting to the frame…..offer it up to the frame……assuming it is a 16 foot length and you are framed at 16'' centers. Heres the trick….first screw on a short bit of timber to the bottom or top of each joist…. then as you start forming it to the frame it will sit correctly, When it bends, each point of contact with the frame will move slightly,so you have to allow the timber to move laterally so 3 people would be ideal to attach …,it will take a bit of finessing to get it right but will give good results…don't drive fixings home until you are happy with the result….. i have used this method on 4x2 6x2 9x3 timber but success depends on the timber chosen… knots =trouble…. for wide radius curves on a raised deck you might consider doubling up with a secondjpgboard making sure you overlap any joins use impact glue between boards….. for non structural skirt just use wet 1inch board and force it on and attach….. again if you like double up….. sorry photos are not showing:blushing:

Hey CCB,meant to ask, are you storing the trailer indoors or out? if out then would recommend one other little knack to prolong the life of the motor: there is a black plastic shroud held over the motor housing with ties,when you are putting this back, cut away as much as you can of the underneath…….. this was badly designed, it holds water and will cause the motor to seize if left standing for a long period,i just keep them in the parts bin for reattaching when being sold on……If the motor pump assembly will see afoot of debris collecting on it,attach an 18x 22 inch sheet of rubber to the trailer so that it drapes over the assembly when at rest,then when it tips it goes up with the tipping body….not very pretty, but i have done this and never had a problem with anything since. Regardless Oil should be drained and replaced every year,you will be surprised what gets in there…..including moisture…. it is way cheaper than fixing the assembly……. prevention is better than cure….. thats why we have prophylactics:001_tongue:

You could ring the "ter"people give them the chassis number on it….. but then if it is nicked……. horrible can of worms ….. wander leads are easy to get, i sometimes use a u of fence wire as i can never be bothered finding the lead……

Thats Brilliant! Go on put it up! i suppose he was looking for a comfortable crotch:001_tt2:

Sae 10 w40 will do nicely but 32 hydraulic oil is correct,you will need to flush the system,remove the tank,if its an old one its metal if its more modern it will be plastic, so drain off all the oil you can, clean the tank,spotless will only do… any grit ect will cause problems…..add some oil then take the pipe off the ram put in the tank and run the motor,let it cycle for 30 seconds. drain the oil again ……if you can carefully extend the ram a foot or two then release,this will get most of the oil out of the ram, reconnect everything refill with clean oil and cycle to full extent repeat 3 or 4 times, if it still does not cycle properly you may have dirt in a valve,remove valves clean and replace,being careful to reassemble correctly,the other major issue with IWT TIPPING GEAR IS….Stuck brushes on the motor….. just remove wipe clean and replace…..they may be stuck hard, so you risk damaging them,but brushes are cheap and can be sourced at any alternator stater motor repair workshop… £2 a set…… hope this helps….Jase

Worst I have had was 2mm off! was a big job on limestone ,destroyed the blades,took them to a friend for Surface grinding,he set them up together and left them on until they came bak to a good edge, took quite a while……had an engineering company do them a few times but they would wait to do them until i would enquire if they were ready and only put a mild edge on them€ 70 a set!,my friend rebuilds engines, he just does it on the spot and gets them scalpel sharp and will square up the anvils well! mates rates….. A good square anvil is just as important…...

Not a fan of ladders,much easier to install a line and get on up…. but usually carry one for odd jobs, but realistically if you are working off a ladder your "risk" has exponentially gone way up, a ladder is a very useful tool but has its limitations…… rather use my lines anyway!

bit late here but you could checkout your local hire shop, they replace the hoses on their hydraulic breaker power packs….. you can often get them for the asking or maybe a few quid…. they come with 1/2inch flat face connectors…. plenty big enough to run a splitter…. i run 2 conveyors on them,1 0n 3 lengths the other on 4…….. no noticeable drop compared to not using them…. so cheap and they come bonded together! so no tangled hoses to trip over…..

Have to agree, you could turn it around in a day if your organized,as you are that far might as well check bores ect….

I Suspect it is clever marketing….it is a finite resource so therefore has some value plus a good story to bs people with….like bog oak ect… have to admit having seen some furniture it looks amazing…. but some logs pulled up are huge and great timberin their own right…. better watch than all the soaps anyway!

Ah Lads you are taking the piss with this thread…..heh heh…….

yup that'll be the first indicator…….not a turn up the radio louder type noise,always need seeing too…..

Hi Steve,Was she running hot? they have been known to seize and shear…. new pump costs 18 to 35 stg part number PEB500090KIT get the one with gasket and new bolts… belt will cost about a tenner part number ERR5911, check tensioner pulley bearing too if its any way dodgy get one of those too part numberERR4708t by the way the bolt that holds the pulley to the tensioner is a left hand thread. The bearing is held in the tensioner with a circlip.that should doit for you, Jase

Assuming you have power both ways on your breaker circuit, just buy a solenoid valve, put the grab on the main flow and rotator on diverted flow, run wires back to cab, add to any switch you fancy, even one of the joystick buttons, there is usually an un used one….easy peasy, just check if there are restrictors in the rotator,if not fit them…. Slows down oil speed for a slower rotation….. i can check solenoid sn ect at weekend…. and a few pics… my one goes on anything, but without the rotator for the 1 ton…..it makes it too Low !

Hate to say it but you know the phrase paid from the neck down springs to mind…..pmsl…..

i know them…… tried to pinch the gates off the avenue!!!!;-)

:bad:Nowt stirring here yet,took out 5 Sycamores, good and dry, wish i could say the same for the ground, fed up of the mess and muck, but won't be long until it will be up, doing a line of lime tomorrow ….. have to see…...

there is always some machinery around 6to 8 k up for sale from the islands….. have often wondered….. last one i saw was a mint lathe….. i wouldn't risk it personally,ansi have bought some fairly daft stuff unseen…;-)

running an 863 h and 853,for larger jobs, mainly removals, with litter bucket,timber grapple or grab,and 4in one bucket, landscape rake for reseeding, 2m flail head for mulching up to 3"scrub,"repurposing" a hydraulic winch at the moment, planning on mounting it with grapple...... next on the wish list is a stump grinder, am undecided but swinging to the bobcat sg 60....... any thoughts? skidsteers need firm ground, otherwise they will do awesome damage..... if you are skilled then you can do a lot with minimal tearing of turf.....had a contractor in with a t250...... he destroyed the place.....so wheeled ones are better.... but if you have access and need muscle then they are the dogs

I use brake cleaner and air...... try heating lightly with mapp gas burner prior to cleaning ..... let it cool a minute or two first, to avoid flash burn.... spray on brake cleaner....wipe off build up with scotch pads then final clean, hone, and oil up prior to re assembly ! easy peasy!..... if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner then drop it in for 20 min......

Just to muddy the waters a bit:thumbup:..... a good tweak for a 200tdi is to throw a 300 tdi head on it...... only real way to know whats in her is to checkthe engine number.... send on the reg and ill tell you what should be in it...go to any decent garage.... they can run the reg and will tell you.... or else Decoding your Land Rover VIN Number Easy peasy:thumbup: Currently running crew cab td5 110 ,td5 disco 7 seater,130 defender 300tdi tipper, 84 rangy off roader...:thumbup1:not that i like landrovers or anything.....

Wine Vinegar for the midges, just rub a bit in.... put it on collar and cuffs also..... not malt vinegar though.... if you have a bite press the tip ofyour thumbnail in really hard twice to form an x crossing the bite.... if it isn't sore your not pressing hard enough..... the x print should stay for at least 5 mins worked for me with most bites especially mozzies..... i steer clear of anything that takes the markings off your watch......