wisecobandit
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Everything posted by wisecobandit
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LOL cant say ive ever used one but they hold there money and sell for good £££'s so even if its not to your likely you prob wont loose a great deal. Ive stuck big dogs on my 044 as only had a skinny one originally. If im honest half the reason was it keeps the bottom of the saw off the ground so it doesn't get roughed up to bad as much as anything plus it gives it a look of aggressiveness.
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Just done a google search, have a look... Blue Morpho Butterfly
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Blue morpho I think its called.
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Take it they have been delivered to all the dealerships today as my local dealer proudly announced they had them in stock today aswell.
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1122 664 0501 heavy duty 1117 664 0500 standard size That's the stihl part numbers. Believe they are about £6 each a few mths ago
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Investment! Forget bricks and mortar....!
wisecobandit replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in General chat
All the cheap end stuff started getting exported abroad to the likes of Romania etc drove prices up. Bit like scrap, cheap cars being exported abroad to be broken up for spares has raised car prices. Tractors have now followed suit. -
Bit of silicone sealer/liquid gasket around it works. Just don't be lazy and smear it over the top (yes it happens) but pull the pipe smear a bit around the joint and refit and leave it overnight to go off before refilling with oil. Obviously clean the surfaces first.
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Makes you wander if you would ever find a genuine 395xp described as a "hobbyist" saw lol
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I just reported it as a fake, see what happens, prob nothing....
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Get a cheap Chinese carb off ebay (seriously) They give you hi/lo adjustable screws rather than what you have. You may have to modifly your air filter housing to adjust them tho. It will wake the saw up over the original carb. There is a uk seller selling these to at nearly double the price tho if your desperate and want it in the next few days. New General CARBURETOR CARB For STIHL MS170 MS180 017 018 Chain Saw ZAMA | eBay Its not worth the price of buying a diaphragm kit when a new carb is almost the same price and gives you more tuning potential. I assume you have replaced the fuel line or your 100% happy with it? They can go soft and may seem ok just blowing through it etc but in actual use can restrict fuel. Ive seen a few where the carbs or fuel line are at fault.
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Ive got an ms170 which has a tuneable carb fitted and muffler mod I use for hedgelaying and cant rate it highly enough given the price. Use it for everything upto about 9" (in a hedge its easier than having to run get a bigger saw..) The ms180 has a 1mm bigger piston and tuneable carb I believe so as Barrie says pay the few extra quid. Replacement parts are cheap compared to the husky, you would fit a new barrel and piston to the stihl but if it where the husky it would be beyond economic repair.
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Yeah ive posted quite a few and never had one go missing. Like Stubby says you can insure against it anyway if needed. Depending on value you place on the saw you could prob post with insurance for £20 Jon.
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Im sure you could post it to him Jon. It doesn't cost as much as you prob think.
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Cheeky bugger... im just down the road from gardenkit! Yeah basically its a form of spark amplifier. Power goes through the trigger which amplifys the current enough to operate the coil fire as its to weak without it. Theres no reason for it to live under the flywheel other than theres room for it there hence why you can just snip the wires near the coil if you think the flywheel could give you issues removing it. Its basically the same as the coil on a pre 80's car which powered the distributor if car engines make more sense to you.
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Theres no real way of dating these saws afaik. Most of them have a trigger under the flywheel for the coil. These are prone to break down and again as far as im aware are no longer available. However all is not lost as a cheap way of repairing and more reliable is to get hold of a nova ignition module and use that at a cost of around £15 and you don't even need to remove the flywheel to remove the trigger. Just snip the wires at the coil and wire/fit the nova. You will prob see 2 black wires which come thru the casing up to the coil which are the trigger units wires so snip them there..
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Hardwood or softwood? Think jnoon and Dartmoortimbercutter are both in devon and short of hardwood so they may show some interest if the price is right.
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Hey Spud not sure if this will work but I will try.... The spring and ball are contained in the big brass screw... At whatever pressure the ball lifts allowing fuel up the centre of the screw and thru the hole in the side which in turn allows it to run thru the hole in the side of the threads (that the brass screw screws into) which floods out the h side of the carb. Im sh*t at explaining but I know what I mean lol In the end of the brass screw you can just about make out the ball internally Theres a recess cut around the screw at the level of the hole in the side of the brass screw. Theres a port in the base and in the side. If you cut a disc from a coke can and place under the copper washer it stops any fuel rising up hence stop the ball/spring/in effect valve opening. Therefore stopping any excess fuel entering the h side of the carb to flood it out. Pictures prob ellow you to see what im getting at better.
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its a very basic design but it works. Seal the screw well after if you do remove it to have a look as they are prone to leak petrol around the threads, they sealed them with thread lock from new. Basically the ball sits in the end of the spring and when at whatever pressure lifts the ball (obviously against the spring pressure) which in turn allows excess fuel to flow into a gallery making the carb run rich hence cutting power and acting as a rev limiter. (hope that makes sense) If you where extremely lucky and could work out spring pressures etc you could upgrade the spring pressure to open at higher revs but would be more luck than judgement to get it right....
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The same blokes selling woodchip at £52 a dumpy bag... 97% feedback and both bad feedback are for goods described better than what they are. Looking thru what hes sold he deals in car bits like a car scrappy and anything he can get his hands on to sell so seems a bit strange the only saw related thing would be an 880 and worryingly serviced and maintained "by themselves" especially with no brake. I did look but couldn't find his mother for sale in amy of his listings lol
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Go to the pub, leave the saw somewhere warm/hot conservatory to dry out, right off the rest of the day as a bad job, and try again tomoz. Oh and walk to the pub or let the wife drive lol. Wake up in the morning change the fuel in the saw, take out spark plug and pull over a few times to expel any water, replace the plug and cross ur fingers. Was it running when it hit water?
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If its the same type of brass screw as on the tillotson carbs fitted to the stihl 051/075/076 etc then as Spud says its a safety valve under it. It acts as a type of rev limiter and floods the carb so it cant be over revved. Its simply a ball and spring mechanism, not something you can adjust easily but can block it off to increase the rpm but not recccomended especially on a cutter as would prob put the rpm of the saw over the disc max speed.
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Duramatic hard nose bar?
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Sounds a bit carb related by what you say. I would strip and clean it and put a new diaphragm kit in it as a matter off course given the age of the saw. Maybe something as simple as the little mesh filter blocking up inside the carb. Would certainly be my first port of call.
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Got a fully adjustable Caesar guerrini dts I use for everything except on the quad shooting bunnys at night and wildfowling, got an sx3 for that and a .243 Winchester xtr, ruger .22 and a couple air rifles. As we are on the subject I need to dig out a load of chokes to get rid of, now ebay doesn't except them I haven't really bothered but anyone ever used gunstar or whatever its called?
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If it is the older version special with walbro carb and not the xtorq as said its only the top end that's different. If its the xtorq 365 its the same as the 372xtorq and all you need to do is grind off some fins on the transfer covers to make it the same as the 372. The new xtorq 365/372 is exactly the same motor apart from the restriction yet because it has xp on the 372 Husqvarna charge an extra £120 for the privelidge.... I got a 365sp and cant fault it, they are a great saw and never had an issue with it. The only issue out of the norm is the inlet boot has been known not to seal 100% but that seems almost an ongoing issue with huskys...
