wisecobandit
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Everything posted by wisecobandit
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If you have no joy then you should get away with using stihl p/n 4128 182 4501 approx. 64pence each and available through stihl. That's the torsion spring that's used on the fs200 and looks very similar.
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The flywheel comes with them if you buy a new one lol.... (only messing but true) . As you say it appears they are unavailable using that part number. It however shares the same flywheel as the ms200t and fs200/fs202 but I think the recoil side is different (don't think they use the aforementioned spring) but spud/rich or garden kit should be able to answer that.
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1973 stihl 051 is my oldest. Still or should that be stihl puts some of the much newer saws to shame tho it only gets used a few times a month to give me a minor workout, use the 1976ish 075 for a full blown one.
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Not had it apart yet but that's a bit I ordered along with the ring (1130 022 2000) and inlet manifold. At 44p its not worth debating and just putting a new one in.
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Now ur talking lol,i had a yellow rd400dx with twin allspeeds...
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Its a zama carb fitted. Yeah spud its one of those silly rubber breather things, ive ordered a couple as the oil tank uses the same one. I will pull the saw over 10-12 times and see what the plugs like but my suspicions are it will be dry. Good suggestion, hadn't thought of checking that doh....
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More likely worn emulsion tube/s in the carb/s than reeds I would imagine. Reeds never used to really give any hassles, altho we used to change them to boysen racing reeds for that extra .2 of a bhp lol. Spud, know your a bit of a whipper snapper compared to me but remember the RD125lc mk3's, we used to file the peg off the powervalve and turn it slightly lol.
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Including replys to Mr.Spudders and Rich to lol. Spud the chokes definetly working as it should. It has a new 180 carb on it about 12 mths ago so is adjustable with l and h screws. Fuel line was replaced about 6 months ago with an oe part along with filter when I did a quicky service xmas time so not thinking its likely to be that. So process of eliminatation appears to be possible inlet manifold replacement, hence mentioning plug colour is good it could still have a bit of an air leak around the impulse part of it somehow? Its still the original and I know its a 2006 saw. (know in my possession to fiddle with) IS it worth replacing tank vent at the same time as Rich mentioned? Doesn't ever seem to be gassy when you take the cap off? Just wandered about needle height that if the needle wasn't sealing it may allow fuel to run back down into the tank somehow but it runs fine once its started in all fairness.
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Scarily they are not bad and hold tune etc very well as well as giving you the option to tune the saw using h and l screws unlike the o.e carb. Ive got one on my 170 use for hedge laying etc and never had to retune it. The biggest issue tho is obviously as the oe carb doesn't have l or h screws the air filter gets in the way of tuning the aftermarket one so needs a bit of a mod to get a screwdriver in (and drill a hole in the top cover) or bolt the carb on leaving the airfilter off and tune then refit airfilter albeit you may have to take the filter off a couple times to get it 100% They are a copy as you say but the diaphragms etc are interchangeable.
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Having just seen a post about an ms170 elsewhere on the forum jogged my mind that ive got to have a quick look at one at some stage so throw some ideas at me Spud/Rich/Etc... Ms170 runs fine without issue and starts fine 1st pull once warm but the cold start is pants and can take 15/20 pulls using the correct procedure. Once you get the initial fire it starts right up. Its like you need to pull fuel from the tank and up the line and prime the carb taking so many pulls before it will start. By all accounts plug colour etc is fine so doubting it being an air leak etc and its recently had a new carb. Ive only been told over the phone so not got the saw yet. Needle height? its an inbuilt impulse in the manifold like the 357 so no impulse line.
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Think everyone ive ever worked on had a duff carb one way or another. They seem to gum up at the drop of a hat and at less than £20 its cheaper just to buy a new ebay one than to mess with it. Also the original carb doesnt have fuel adjustment whereas the replacements normally do. Like you say they are prone to fuel lines to. As spud said maybe a scored piston due to being wrongly gassed etc but its not the sort of saw which most would use often so I shouldn't think its worn out through wear tbh.
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I tend to mix mine around 40.1 in the 051's and 075's and never had a problem. I share the same view as stubby that there are no valves to burn out and oil is much better quality than when these saws where made. Just keep an eye on the colour of the sparkplug from time to time. The nice thing also is theres no rubber inlet manifold to split and leak etc (tho it pays to change your impulse line if your not sure when it was last done)
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This may help you ;-) http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/RacingTechfacts_93099.pdf
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Thing being where do you draw the line and whst are you trying to achieve, just speed of the cut? Resistance is as much the key as weight. Obviously the shorter the bar the better. The race saw boys file down the heads of the rivets etc and sharpen at different angles, height of rakers etc all for speed of cut. Yes the saws are a different league power wise but its still down to the chain doing the work just like smaller saws.
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Anything to keep a build up of pressure inside. Even a cork would work. Be safe tho as there will be more shrapnel I expect.
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Think you need to block off the top of the hole where the charge goes in with clay or mud. Will make a much better impression lol.
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I was watching them 2 but more cos they where local to me lol. Need to look into the possibility of a twin headed mill for a bit of fun as have 2 075's and 3 051's and cant use them all at the same time lol.
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Personally if you have a number of them I would paint one or two with emulsion paint and stick them away at the back of a shed for 12 mths which will slow down the drying out/seasoning process and limit any splitting or cracks. Not saying it will be perfect but much less likely to split than what your trying to do at the mo. (not knocking what your doing btw and not meaning to sound detrimental)
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New pair of cranks seals in a husky 359 and fit a new muffler on a ms230 this afternoon for me. Whilst im writing anyone know much or have a wiring diagram for a 5.7 kva Honda diesel generator? Its not producing 240v. Only replaced the brushes a few mths ago so don't think it will be them but not sure how to check the stator wiring outputs and as a new stator is around £200 (so ive heard)im not going to replace it without knowing its at fault if I can help it.
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Even madder sending it by myhermes, will be in little pieces by the time it gets delivered... The worrying thing is someone whos never used a saw will end up buying it...
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My dogs after a good mornings wildfowling in the snow...
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Before you order a new piston make sure you measure the wrist pin size of yours as there are 2 different sizes on the 044.
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Not sure if this pic will work but this is the original stickers that where on the 051 and 075 saws that where supplied in the u.k. (just grabbed this one to take a quick pic) [/url I can only assume these saws where originally made and made there mark in brazil, which was where all the documentation was written based on earlier model saws so more rewritten rather than starting from scratch. Maybe due to the climate and humidity the settings would need to be much richer out there compared to the uk? You have to also bear in mind that these saws where sold in brazil right up to 2006 or so and also the ts510 cut off saw where also based on these saws so manuals could have been cross referenced.
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Trust me the service manual is wrong in respect of the carb settings. All the original stickers even state 3/4 on low and 1 on high on all 051's. Ive rebuilt atleast ten 051's and not one the low screw has been far off 3/4 of a turn. Theres more than a few inaccuracys with the manual and ipl. Even the 075/076 saws only need 3/4 of a turn using the same carb. Set the high speed as a per a normal saw like Spud says but all I was getting at is you can get it to rev higher than when the governor cuts in by blocking it off but you wont achieve anything much in the way of improvement of cutting etc. They are a bit reknowned for ppl tuning them thinking they are 4 stroking but in fact its the limiter cutting in and they are running lean which is why I mention the limiter cutting in at 9500 rpm'ish.
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Or you could just mill out the throats of the crankcase by 2mm and fit the 460 topend
