wisecobandit
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Everything posted by wisecobandit
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Personally I wouldn't panic as 13500 is a guideline and normally a 500rpm safety net on the guide. The main thing is you've tached it, your happy, and is 4 stroking so I would leave it as is. Not sure what carbs on that model (zama?) but I dare say the limiters are just plastic sleeves with little tabs on that fit over the adjustment screws, its just a case of trimming the tabs off which can normally be done with side cutters nd cleaned up with a Stanley knife although im lazy and just use a dremel and sand it down..
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Only in my head as yet tho I cant believe no ones actually done it before (well to my knowledge)
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As Spud and WYK say its around 80% size of the exhaust port size is prob the best guide line. Ive always been tempted to try and make an exhaust outlet you can fit a separate flat plate/screen in that you could either adjust or replace easily so to allow you to fiddle and find the sweet spot-but that's me just thinking out loud.
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Whats a base gasket Left it out as you probably guessed.
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Just edited post so reread lol. it maybe a zama also... All 3 should be set as above for basic setting according to the manual.
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Walbro or tillotson carb? They are both 2 1/2 on H and 2 on L according to the husky manual.
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Yup got it back together yesterday and fitted a 2nd port (1") in the unbaffled muffler I had. Stuck the comp tester and tried to pull it over and lots of compression. Cant say exactly as 4 pulls it was at 170psi before I was doubled up in pain. Stuck the plug in and an hour later braved it to pull it again. Popped 1st time and fired up on the second. Needed a tweak on the carb unsurprisingly but feels a bit of a ripsnorter but who knows til it hits wood.... it may shoot me down in flames lol but im quietly confident I will be happy with the result.
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I found putting the spring in not to bad, wrapped some parcel tape around the complete cover to hold the spring in, tapped the cover onto the saw and reset it using the chainsaw brake, take off and refit cover that goes over the spring, job done, Took me less than 5 mins
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Know the feeling Rich. Its even worse when you just played with a saw and want to try it out but incapable of doing so despite having the time on your hands to do so.
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Next door neighbour thought he'd have a go...
wisecobandit replied to Jonny Burch's topic in Video forum
Regarding the beaver fever that's already been forementioned, did they actually try to free the saw by hacking at it with a blunt hatchet in hope the tree would fall/release the saw?? Some of these people get a diy saw in there hands and they think they can fell any tree.. -
Don't even bother looking at it on wykapedia... after the 1st sentence of jargon I lost total interest.... Seems to mainly relate to glass and cutting diamonds tho....... nowt about engines or anything ???
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Lol probably but a lot of the 2 stroker boys done it on the racetrack to the production modified bikes back in the days of the Yamaha tz's and some of the karting lads also etc. Ive always had my reservations tho about trying it.
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Interesting read. Seems hes unsure on the windowed piston theory. Yeah the step in the port is meant to increase velocity, bike builders have done it for years but cant say ive ever noticed a difference. I guess it must have an advantage for ppl to still do it tho. I want to check out the theory at some stage of drilling a few minute holes under the piston rings to allow pressure to help push out the rings and in effect get a stronger seal.
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Yeah ive bevelled the edges spud on the final clean up. If the 1.2 mm clearance doesn't work then the stihl 064 piston gives an extra 5% coverage on the piston skirt is my theory. Not decided what to do along the muffler line yet, I have the standard muffler or a cheap chinese replacement which has no baffle but still has the original size outlet on it. TBH bending over porting has had me up half the night in pain so high as a kite on pills so allsorts of weird thoughts have been going thru my head regarding the muffler.
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Both ring ends run thru the inlet only and don't come anywhere near any other port. The piston skirt covers the inlet tract by 1.2mm or so so close but we shall see... No the exhaust hasn't been lowered. just the rough casting removed and polished up. Raised by 1mm. Like I say its my own saw so you have to push things a little to find out what does and doesn't work,
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Hopefully this works Big bore standard inlet port After Standard big bore exhaust port Just a small tickle as it didn't need much Standard lower transfers on bb kit Lets say they are opened up well... Didn't take a before piston shot doh... but it looks like this now. Just need to do a slight bit of cleaning and polishing up and its done. Plus it should be a little lighter now...
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Its a bb kit spud so not the standard piston. Will check squish when I fit it although I was hoping to get a timed cut on the oe 365 and get back to the same log and do a comparison altho being a bit of a cripple in the fact I still cant stand up straight, have a numb groin still and not meant to lift more than 1 kg it may get bolted on before I get chance to do a before and after test.
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That's one of timberwolfs saws isn't it Wyk? I believe that's on a Chinese husky copy saw? Well its turned up and within an hour I started grinding. TBH it looked a decent kit in the first place and porting etc was half decent. (its a hyway kit which has been getting good reviews) Ive not done much with the transfer other than to add a bit of sweep towards the inlet port.
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Im certainly considering more hot than not lol. Debating going with a stihl piston tho and windowing it etc.
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Ive done a few in my time and ive plenty of time to spend given im not working for a while, I done a 357xp yesterday and got the tools etc. If that wasn't the case or I was busy I would send it to spud as you say.
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So bored sitting at home kicking my heals due to the recent op, that in a moment of madness I decided to buy a 372 bb kit for my 365 special. Question is im already thinking about diving in when it turns up and porting it up fairly serious before even fitting it....
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Anyone got a 357xp 199 carb floating around? Not worried if it has the common faults/issues they suffer. Happy to pay a small amount and cover postage etc. Just thought its worth asking.
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The white top is prob the older saw of the 2 especially if the other has a grey top. Serial numbers will be different to the modern way husqy do it and will be on a siver not black tag. Not bad saws but can be a bit slow to start due to the choke system of just squashing the air filter. As Spud says they just earth thru the spring bit that hold the switch in situ so sometimes they just need a tweak on the spring as the get lose so the switch rattles about and doesn't earth efficiently. I would keep bar max to 15" as you say.
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Given the age of the saw I would imagine its a newer replacement trigger unit that's been bolted by the coil, going by the pic it would've normally be under the flywheel and theres not one in your pic? Has it got a couple wires coming off it that go to the coil wire and kill switch? If not it maybe some kind of heatsink but the ipl doesn't show one.
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Leaking grommet on hedge trimmer fuel line.
wisecobandit replied to Woodworks's topic in Maintenance help
:thumbup: Its amazing the different methods we use to "get us thru" sometimes...
