Woodworks

Sounds like the OP need to get someone with a Farmi WP 36. It does not have biggest cut but the splitter can be used as a stand alone machine so easily. Just ring up the oversize lengths and split away. Just make sure the contractor you get in has got attachments/adaption to do this. How much can be done in a day varies but just done two typical jobs this week. 1. 18 tonne lorry load of cord with a fair amount of oversize in it. Cleared 3/4 of it with intermittent help and no machinery other than a trailer to take the logs away. That was working til 18.00 2. Greeted with a horrible pile of arbwaste with small bits oversized rings and plenty of hellish hard eucalyptus. All badly snedded off (it don't get worse than this) and still filled 20 m3 bags with 9" logs with one full time helper and an occasional helper moving the bags. 0830-1730 Neither job were they overly fussy about how small the logs were split and this does speed things along.

If they wanted to I am sure they could sort something. We have all sorts of global agreements on trade etc. Where there is a will there is a way and there is no will to tax aviation fuel.

Pictures show up for me. All looks in pretty good nick and some lovely tools in there.

Would get it closer to legal but not a 50kg saving.

Sorted

Rather not say what or who's it is

No and 750kg Dry weight this might be true.

From what I can make out the trailer/machine come in at 800kg as supplied by the makers Be good if some helium would solve the problem. Could look at ways to strip 50kg from the machine but not easy.

Couldn't agree more. No tax on aviation fuel is truly bonkers.

I have heard it said that you would get away with being overweight if less than 10% over the 750kg trailer weights. No idea if this has any validation though.

I work on 2m3 an hour with a tractor splitter on rings. Thats making relatively dainty logs for fussy customers. Round here £20-£25 per hour would be about right.

These have probably only done 1500 miles max. Will be checking the others when I can. Bearings came from a reputable place that supplies most of the local garages. The original bearing didn't last long either and only spotted the problem when a shield came astray and was loose on the axel. Think our rough potholed lanes don't help matters.

I fitted them and did grease them up thoroughly. The original ones disintegrated but I spotted those in time. How often/miles should you have to grease and maintain this sort of bearing? I check for play regally and all felt OK last week.

Bought about 4 years ago but had new bearings last year Think I am going to look at the new braked trailer with higher load capacity to mount it on. The wheels and trailer are only rated for 750kg and this weighs almost all of that.

Counting my blessings. Just been processing up near Exeter which involves a hundred mile round trip including a stretch of the M5 at rush hour and get home pull into the yard and this happens. Could have been so much worse.

Spot on

Struggled to find anything the right shape and these were a special order

Not of the Wellington variety but the boots around the hydraulic controls on our forwarding trailer. Replaced the boots a year ago and the new ones are already cracking up and were not cheap. Any ways to prevent this?

Thing with the Kity when it comes to set up is the wheels don't have a crown and a lot of the videos describe set up for machines that do. I used to set the blade so the back of gullet lined up with the front of tyre or fractional y further back so most of the tooth overhangs the front of the wheel. This was what my Kity instructions recommended and worked great but seems contradictory to a lot of online videos that suggest the blade should run in the middle of the tyre.

I cut veneers on my 613 from what I remember was an 8" wide board. Whatever you can get under the guides it can cut so long as the blade is sharp and you take your time. Oh and make sure the guides are set up right. Does yours have wooden blocks for the side to side support?

Was about to mention Tuffsaws as on another forum they rave about Ian's blades but not tried them myself.

I had a 613 for many years and presuming it's similar it's great bandsaw. Blade wise I generally use a 1/2" 3 tpi. Course enough for fast ripping but not so deep you cant cut a few curves with it. Think my current blades come from Truecut and seem very good Trucut, The Narrow Bandsaw Specialists - Home

Steve I have some like those and the URKO are in a different league of build quality. Not doubting the Fortis ones but if you cant get them think you might be pleasantly surprised. Happy to put some on some scales tomorrow if you are interested in how solid they are.

Not seen the Fortis ones but the Urko ones are by far the heaviest duty F clamps I have used and seen. Usual problem with F clams is sooner or later they start to slip on the main shaft but the Urko have a hardened serrated tooth to do the gripping. Only down side is they have a relatively short thread. Tilgear | Urko F Clamps | Design Technology Equipment Supplier knock Bessy and Sandvic into a cocked hat IMO

The theme to Magnificent Seven. Thing I find with lots of film scores they seem great with the film but out of context I would not give the tracks a second thought. Quentin Tarantino use of tracks comes to mind.