Woodworks
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Everything posted by Woodworks
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Rather not say what or who's it is
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No and 750kg Dry weight this might be true.
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From what I can make out the trailer/machine come in at 800kg as supplied by the makers Be good if some helium would solve the problem. Could look at ways to strip 50kg from the machine but not easy.
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Couldn't agree more. No tax on aviation fuel is truly bonkers.
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I have heard it said that you would get away with being overweight if less than 10% over the 750kg trailer weights. No idea if this has any validation though.
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Cutting rounds, splitting, then shifting them. ££s
Woodworks replied to 7610's topic in General chat
I work on 2m3 an hour with a tractor splitter on rings. Thats making relatively dainty logs for fussy customers. Round here £20-£25 per hour would be about right. -
These have probably only done 1500 miles max. Will be checking the others when I can. Bearings came from a reputable place that supplies most of the local garages. The original bearing didn't last long either and only spotted the problem when a shield came astray and was loose on the axel. Think our rough potholed lanes don't help matters.
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I fitted them and did grease them up thoroughly. The original ones disintegrated but I spotted those in time. How often/miles should you have to grease and maintain this sort of bearing? I check for play regally and all felt OK last week.
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Bought about 4 years ago but had new bearings last year Think I am going to look at the new braked trailer with higher load capacity to mount it on. The wheels and trailer are only rated for 750kg and this weighs almost all of that.
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Counting my blessings. Just been processing up near Exeter which involves a hundred mile round trip including a stretch of the M5 at rush hour and get home pull into the yard and this happens. Could have been so much worse.
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Spot on
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Struggled to find anything the right shape and these were a special order
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Not of the Wellington variety but the boots around the hydraulic controls on our forwarding trailer. Replaced the boots a year ago and the new ones are already cracking up and were not cheap. Any ways to prevent this?
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Thing with the Kity when it comes to set up is the wheels don't have a crown and a lot of the videos describe set up for machines that do. I used to set the blade so the back of gullet lined up with the front of tyre or fractional y further back so most of the tooth overhangs the front of the wheel. This was what my Kity instructions recommended and worked great but seems contradictory to a lot of online videos that suggest the blade should run in the middle of the tyre.
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I cut veneers on my 613 from what I remember was an 8" wide board. Whatever you can get under the guides it can cut so long as the blade is sharp and you take your time. Oh and make sure the guides are set up right. Does yours have wooden blocks for the side to side support?
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Was about to mention Tuffsaws as on another forum they rave about Ian's blades but not tried them myself.
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I had a 613 for many years and presuming it's similar it's great bandsaw. Blade wise I generally use a 1/2" 3 tpi. Course enough for fast ripping but not so deep you cant cut a few curves with it. Think my current blades come from Truecut and seem very good Trucut, The Narrow Bandsaw Specialists - Home
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anyone know where i can get F clamps made by Fortis?
Woodworks replied to se7enthdevil's topic in General chat
Steve I have some like those and the URKO are in a different league of build quality. Not doubting the Fortis ones but if you cant get them think you might be pleasantly surprised. Happy to put some on some scales tomorrow if you are interested in how solid they are. -
anyone know where i can get F clamps made by Fortis?
Woodworks replied to se7enthdevil's topic in General chat
Not seen the Fortis ones but the Urko ones are by far the heaviest duty F clamps I have used and seen. Usual problem with F clams is sooner or later they start to slip on the main shaft but the Urko have a hardened serrated tooth to do the gripping. Only down side is they have a relatively short thread. Tilgear | Urko F Clamps | Design Technology Equipment Supplier knock Bessy and Sandvic into a cocked hat IMO -
Can't make out who makes it but there is one in this video being used single handed. [ame] [/ame]
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As above. Been asked if I could send some of ours but that seems nuts as there must be some local charcoal producers. Thanks
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No one glue is great for everything but West Epoxy is the most versatile IMO. Snag is it's expensive and needs lots of additives for specific jobs. PVA is hard to beat for wood but need close fitting joint. Cascamite for wood if you need gap filling properties. PU like Gorilla will stick wood and other porous materials. Also can handle wood that is not entirely dry which PVA and Epoxy don't like Aralidite or similar epoxy for little jobs if ultimate strength is not required. Gap filling for wood and sticks metals and other non flexible materials. Super glue for some plastics but never found it great for anything apart for sticky you skin together (think it was designed for this) but it is handy for quick jobs.
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Yes totally normal. I run a firewood processor and I work by the oil tank which is at 65C. Get through 5-6 litres of water in hot weather and probably 3-4 when it's cool.
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Yep thats what we do.
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Arborisk here. Easy to deal with but not had a claim yet.
