Rich2484
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Everything posted by Rich2484
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ouch. hopes that heals well. what silky was it?
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just weld one up.
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a friend picked up a 08s for 15quid as a non runner. cleaned the carb for him today and its runs sweet. just a clutch issue to sort, in that it stalls with brake applied. the jammy bugger.
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got a 08s in yesterday... wouldnt start, brought at a boot fair for 15 quid. cleaned carb now starts like a beauty, but wont run with chainbrake on, so looking at clutch tomoz. and i cant begine to describe what a pita getting the chain cover off....... still hopefully 261 parts in tomoz and another new silky in aswell.
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jeeze. 600 notes and no different. thats a lot of dosh. but then as with tree work i guess, a tech will charge to cover himself ect. the piston pump kits in these carbs are a pita imo. and the worst design going, they are great when the saw runs good. they could do without them easily, but this is normally by using an older carb or blanking the pump off. plenty about that in a search. sounds like a carb issue to me. another tweak doesnt really sound like it will do much to me. send it back and make it clear that you have already paid for this to be done. and it hasnt, unless there is a clear reason that it is something other than what they have done, but even so 600 is a big wedge.
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washing machine belt broke one sunday afternoon. halfords was the only place open so matched up a fan belt. that was about 3 months ago. must remember to order that belt.....
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give it to a tech. if the other is a technophobe i sure the tech will give him some sound advice and teach him a few things. a drink on offer is always welcome.
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either way works.
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topsaw combi tool thing. enough said.
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ok. so is it the threaded one? if not remove pull start assembly and wind engine so piston moves down. should then be able with some rattling get it to drop out plug hole. failing this its a cylinder removal job. if in any doubt get a tech to check it out.
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not at the stables where i do work they dont.
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thank you will. always good to hear. the line on the bak is not able to have anything under it. a block of hardwood would not be able to be stored as there is nowhere. the tow line is around a metal bollard post and then out through railings on the back. the line is under a huge amount of tension, in fact so much so you can stand on it when towing and it doesnt move. think pulling a 10t oak tree on 16mm rope with a truck and keep pulling until the point of breaking. the line goes very tight.
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its normally the low side that needs a small tweak anyway.
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oh and the all important fuel tank vent.
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impulse line has gone. carb diaphragms have hole in. blocked needle valve. split fuel line. my first investigation.
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just drain the fuel and fill with aspen. see how it goes. may need a tune and may need the rubber bits. i.e fuel lines, carb diaphragms, changed but only a maybe. just fill it up and see what happens.
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hahaha. i cant see stihl sending anything as they would have to post it, and do a handover.... but i could really see the benifits of an 880 with 6ft bar on the boat. wink wink. lol. maintenance on a lifaboat is always good, plus on ours i would personally look after a silky and ensure it is always kept tip top. maybe silky could change the metal for this purpose. make one in stainless?
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if you like. from the manual. STIHL gear lubricant 0781 120 1117 (7 g / 0.25 oz)
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for greasing. undo it and use the same tool as for bar sprockets.
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i want i want i want i want. where, how and how much?
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ok. so first job is to fault find. bypass the div block with each set first. check the rotate and then the grab. will illiminate the div. if the rotate wont work then bypass the top block, same procedure as above, and will then lead to the rotate slew.
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sorry if i sound thick. shouldnt there be 4 pipes from the mahine? and four conections on the boom arm? or does the diverter valve swap from 4 on the boom to the two on the grab?
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carefull. chainsaw boots are expensive and you dont want to wear them out too quick....:laugh1:
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could do, will look into it.
