pleasant

Right, so 14 people currently work 4-5 days a week, and 14 people prefer that. Next

Worth noting that ALL current Stihl cordless hedge trimmers are classified by them as exactly that- trimmers. Not hedge cutters. Max recommended cutting diameter is only 10mm, so not recommended for cutting back woody overgrown hedges to get back into shape- just new growth or particularly thin green material. Doesn't matter is it's the top of the range back pack battery ones or the noddy domestic ones- still only a trimmer.

I think this will be right up your street guys!

My job was outside putting the xmas lights up.......a job i detest at the best of times...but November!!! A point i tried to make to my wife who insisted I do it, but I got as far as saying ''really, its a bit ear....'

Ive personally run a couple as shelf queens over the years. A good saw. Well built and good power to weight ratio. Love it with a 14". Bar. They are all mtronic....was the first model saw stihl introduced it on. Mine were generally reliable but much prefer the simplicity, access and ease of repair of the previous 240/260 models to be honest......and parts are more plentiful and cheaper.

I was thinking that...a chinese knock off then?

I was mistaken..sorry I must have read it wrong. So protection from pricks as well as chainsaw cuts is what your wifes after then?

Agree. I find the oregon superior.....plus you husky guys dont mind having an oregon chain on your saw......whereas if i only sold Stihl chain and fitted it, there would be a riot! The stihl easyfile is a very good bit of kit. A twin file system that files the rakers at the same time as the cutters at the correct angle. Its not cheap, but the best i have found to sell to my weekend warriors....as well as less experienced pro users. Go to youtube and search for a demo

My dad getting the daily express so i could have the double page pull out colour photo of our 1970 england team to put on my bedroom wall. Still have it in the loft

I read that to suggest you want chainsaw trousers for protection from the more spiky hedges, rather than protection from chainsaw use....is that correct? Stihl and most other decent manufacturers produce protective trousers specifically for hedge cutting, and also brush cutting use. They are a lot cheaper as they dont have the chainsaw resistant kevlar ballistic protection. But what they do have is a more protective outer layer to prevent thorn intrusion and is more abrasive resistant for working up against and within hedge material. Plus they are lighter.

If a cutter is 4mm wide irrelevant of its location within a bar it can only make a cut of 4mm in wood???? No more, no less.

There is no assumption about it. All three cutters are identical on those chains. The width of the drive link doesnt dictate the width of the cut in the wood....the dimensions of the cutter does.

Its not me that writes them off though....its the customer and how much he wants to spend. I am happy to repair anything to keep it going, but if the customer isnt prepared to pay to do that, then there is no option. I dont work for nothing and im not a charity either.

I sell oregon chain....all three versions of .325" the 95, 21 and 22.....so 1.3 1.5 and 1.6mm, and it is the width of the drive link in the bar that is the ONLY difference. The width of the kerf will be the same in the wood. It is the rolling resistance within the bar groove that MAY improve using a narrower drive link, but in the real world this is negligible. With respect, i think you have put yourself through a lot of stress and hassle for little or no benefit IMO

Right.....the oil flow is NON adjustable. It's a lightweight domestic use saw, so a very basic spec. No cordless Stihl saw comes as standard with a carving bar, so this has either been added by the dealer as a cost upgrade, or it was purchased by the OP with the saw as an extra to replace the original 1/4" pitch chain on the standard 12" bar. 12" carving bar part number is 3005 000 3105, so check whether this is correct. As the operator, from a safety perspective it is you that should be competent enough to check a bar and chain is fitted and tensioned correctly....if you don't know how to do this, then you shouldn't be using a chainsaw IMO. Asking the supplying dealer to check that it is, when the operator should know himself would be a concern to me. Anyway, I digress.......check the bar is correct for the saw. Check the oiler holes have been correctly machined. I have known some to be part drilled or swarfed up. Yes- check yourself that it is mounted correctly as if not, the oil will simply pump out past the oil holes at a greater rate than if slightly restricted by the bar being correctly mounted. If all seems fine, then take it to your nearest main dealer with your purchase receipt for them to look at it It's under warranty, and you don't want to void it by messing about with it too much. After all....that's what a warranty is for.

That's not strictly true. A .325" chain cutter tooth and links are exactly the same length and cutting width irrelevant if the drive link in the bar groove is 1.3mm 1.5mm or 1.6mm. The only difference is the bar groove width....thinner the drive link, less rolling resistance...that is the theory any way, although in practice no one in a normal work environment is going to notice any difference. In a lab test, yes possibly, but we all know real world is not a lab.

........and recycle accordingly 😄

You wanna give my wife a shout....would be a breeze for her!

Blimey.....methinks you really need to go out and find an accommodating girlfriend! 🤣🤣

I agree......never had an issue except for impact damage failure There is a lot of 'blueing' to the con rod in the pic. Indicating a lot of heat has been generatied in there. Like has been said, there's not a lot of grease in there- and grease doesn't just lubricate but is cools. Have the components been re-fitted correctly? Causing blueing like that is not just an indication as to a lack of lubrication, but potentially interfering with each other causing unnecessary friction.

You need to take into consideration the state pension- which with the proposed increase in the new year will be £10,400.00 (ish) for the full amount P.A. So £10,400 x 18 years =£187k (67-85) 540k-187k = £353k That obviously also doesn't take into account any inheritances you may receive along the line, any other investments, or indeed the option to downsize later on in life

I deffered my personal pension when I got to 55, as I was still enjoying work and TBH I simply couldn't afford to retire- particulary now I have to work until 67 to get the state pension. So put it back until I would be 60 That was nearly 5 years ago now, so next year i can start taking it......and I still can't afford to retire. Just received my pension statement for the last years payments and my pot has gone DOWN by 25k on this time last year.

Has the linkage been replaced in the correct hole in the throttle quadrant. Bit difficult to make out in your video?

In an ideal world, where you have at least two of everything and a known working component, then yes. Fill yer boots!